sunroof

[sharpe64]

hi there, should just lift out.... if you search on this forum you will see how to do it. basically you close the sunroof fully. then undo front clips, then i give a gentle tap to the rear pg the sunroof and it comes off.

 

[kdp99p]

I have just bought a 944 with an electric sunroof.does the roof panel lift out or does it just tilt at the back

 

[kdp99p]

thanks for that i will give it a try

 

[david924s]

You will need to check the handbook or on this forum for the procedure to de-latch the lifting arms think from memory you put the key in the first position i.e. aux position unless an early car then think there is no first position, then with the sunroof closed already operate the sunroof switch as though to close it and the two lifting arms at the rear of the roof should retract into the car, then the roof can be lifted out from the rear by tilting until high enough to remove be careful of the front hinges which go into the front edge of the roof near the interior light there is a microswitch in there that is to confirm when the roof is in or out so the lifting mechanism will or wont operate depending if in or out.

 

[Veerzigzag]

There are lots of postings on this, and when operating the roof you have to be very careful not to strip the gears that work the arms. Mine ('89 2.7 Lux) had stripped gears when I got it, and I rebuilt it plus sorted out the slipping clutch, so here are some notes: (Check Clark's Garage procedures [link=http://www.clarks-garage.com]here[/link] - as ever they are superb on the subject) 1. Mine opens when the ignition switch is in position 2 (ie "normal - on") and you press the switch down - it stops on microswitches. 2. It closes (rocker switch upwards) when the ignition switch is in position 2 but sometimes the arms don't stop at the roof-closed position but carry on to their retracted position (as if for roof removal). THAT IS THE DANGEROUS MOVEMENT - IF THEY CARRY ON GOING, THE SLIPPING CLUTCH SHOULD PREVENT DAMAGE BUT ONLY IF IT ACTUALLY SLIPS 3. If the roof is in place and the ignition switch is in position 1 (accessories) then pressing the switch upwards moves the arms to the roof-locked position. Many people, me included, back off the tension on the slipping clutch so that it just works the roof, which is in my case a lot less than the factory setting. The factory setting on the slipping clutch is quite tight, and is OK when the gears are both working in unison. With wear and stretching of the cables, what is likely to happen is that one arm stops first, the motor strips that gear, followed a moment later by the other one. The motor, clutch and microswitches are under the side carpet in front of the battery on my '89 model. My suggestion is to make sure that you never allow the arms to retract fully and hit the end stops; you can take the roof out if they are couple of mm short of the stops. Operation is all very logical in a strictly Teutonic way, if you have a degree in meta-philosphical analysis that is.

 

[uk66fastback]

ORIGINAL: Veerzigzag There are lots of postings on this, and when operating the roof you have to be very careful not to strip the gears that work the arms. Mine ('89 2.7 Lux) had stripped gears when I got it, and I rebuilt it plus sorted out the slipping clutch, so here are some notes: (Check Clark's Garage procedures [link=http://www.clarks-garage.com]here[/link] - as ever they are superb on the subject) 1. Mine opens when the ignition switch is in position 2 (ie "normal - on") and you press the switch down - it stops on microswitches. 2. It closes (rocker switch upwards) when the ignition switch is in position 2 but sometimes the arms don't stop at the roof-closed position but carry on to their retracted position (as if for roof removal). THAT IS THE DANGEROUS MOVEMENT - IF THEY CARRY ON GOING, THE SLIPPING CLUTCH SHOULD PREVENT DAMAGE BUT ONLY IF IT ACTUALLY SLIPS 3. If the roof is in place and the ignition switch is in position 1 (accessories) then pressing the switch upwards moves the arms to the roof-locked position. Many people, me included, back off the tension on the slipping clutch so that it just works the roof, which is in my case a lot less than the factory setting. The factory setting on the slipping clutch is quite tight, and is OK when the gears are both working in unison. With wear and stretching of the cables, what is likely to happen is that one arm stops first, the motor strips that gear, followed a moment later by the other one. The motor, clutch and microswitches are under the side carpet in front of the battery on my '89 model. My suggestion is to make sure that you never allow the arms to retract fully and hit the end stops; you can take the roof out if they are couple of mm short of the stops. Operation is all very logical in a strictly Teutonic way, if you have a degree in meta-philosphical analysis that is.

Very informative - thanks.