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I needed to return my '88 924S to using just one key for all locks.The starting point was a good ignition lock and key. Tailgate lock.Easy to strip, a tiny rollpin holds it together. Sketch position of parts before you start and having got the pin out and back plate off, do another drawing showing how coil spring locates. Vital to get long and short tangs in correct positions on re-assembly. Was able to remove the barrel even though using a 'wrong' key. Move key in and out until you find a point that centralises the first of the brass tumblers/sliders and barrel will come out a bit, move key again to find another 'centralising' point and the barrel moves again. Takes longer to describe than actually carry out.VW /Porsche only use a small number of different length sliders so you could obtain a few spare ones from any Eighties VW golf/polo/passat - or old 924 lock. They are held in by a Phillips screw on some cars, small circlips on others. The main thing is that the sliders (more descriptive in this instance) are the same design within these locks.
If barrel is greasy you should not find the sliders and tiny coil springs flying out.
Put 'master' key in, look at which sliders are high or low. The aim is obviously to get them all with their tops flush with or just below the cylinder surface, meaning they match the key profile when inserted.
I found that 3 were correct straight away and it was then a matter of swapping high ones for low ones until most were level. If you have spare sliders then select longer or shorter ones and try them. If you have no spares and have the odd one or two still high by, say, a millimetre - remove slider, clamp it in a soft jawed vice so it only just protrudes (if too much above vice jaws, sliders will bend being thin brass) and with a fine file take off a fraction - keeping the rounded profile.
Re-assemble and see if it now rotates in the housing. Put back together with a bit of fresh grease on the sliders and barrel.I decided to remove two old Golf ignition barrel assemblies from their housings in order to get some spare brass sliders. VW Golf and 924 alloy housings have the same part number so I checked a Haynes Golf (80's) manual for where to drill the hole to release the barrel assembly. Guess what ? Haynes got it wrong yet again.Having opened up this first (already u/s) housing with a small hacksaw, I could take an accurate measurement. I drilled two more housings to prove I had the spot.
Should you ever have to do it :-
Looking at the casting in plan view from above the dash and with the ignition barrel therefore projecting at 5 o'clock.
Measure 17 mm (Haynes wrongly says 10mm) anticlockwise from the very end of the projecting alloy ridge This ridge is about 3mm high and runs part of the way round the end of the ignition barrel opening in the casting. Scribe a line.
From outermost edge of casting ('join line' between fixed casting and rotating ignition barrel) measure in exactly 12mm down the scribed line, centre punch and drill a 3mm hole. The alloy is only about 1mm thick here so go gently. This hole allows you to push down on an internal spring-steel locking strip and at the same time pull out the barrel.
It is NOT a "spring pin" - so clearly Haynes' engineer never actually did this operation .
The ignition barrel assembly just removed has a key code number stamped on the side followed by /85 or whatever year the lock was made. So in theory you could go to your VW/Porsche dealer and order a key via this code.
Update 3.1.2008 Once you have released ignition barrel assembly, the steering column end has a small alloy section held on by a tiny (barely 1mm in diameter) roll-pin. With that tapped out, you will find (unlike the door locks) that you cannot just slide out the key barrel [
]. The cunning Germans have put two tiny projections on it and that means you have to obtain a key, from the code if needs be, and turn it about 10 degrees to line these projections up with slots and remove barrel. BUT if you are only using it to 'rob' spare sliders - then just file these projections off and throw away the unwanted bits [].Update 20. 12. 2007
Have now done both door locks.
Relatively easy to get out. After removing door trim panel, take out 3 short 8mm bolts that hold the black tin plate (924S) to gain access to the lock links within the door. 2 of these bolts are on the vertical channel for the glass, the third is through the inner skin of the door itself.
Prise off the two links at their lower ends, one is translucent nylon colour and links key cylinder to lock, second larger one has an adjustable black balljoint and links external 'trigger' to the lock. Unscrew single Phillips screw in the door jamb - it goes into the back of handle casting and both sides of car have normal right-hand threads (some VW's use a left-hand thread ). Slide handle forward a bit, ease back part out of opening slightly and then slide handle back to disengage front part from slot.I had two 1984 Golf handles that came with & matched the ignition key. Whereas the Golf/924 ignition barrel and alloy housings are identical - - the handles are not.
Same basic outer handle but different external release lever (much smaller on Golf when compared to '88 924S at any rate) and different internal fittings for operating the lock mechanism. BUT these parts are interchangeable if you want to go to the trouble of knocking out a couple of small pivot pins. Trim strips are different :- 924S has black plastic strip with lugs that snap into a couple of holes along the recess. Golf has either stainless steel or black metal strips that clip into slots at either end of the recess.More important is that key barrels are identical, with mechanism being attached to it by a Phillips screw.
On the 924, undo this screw and using two small screwdrivers, prise off inner 'end' disc that rotates with barrel (it is a light press fit on squared inner end of barrel). The next small slotted part with the ball pin just lifts off to reveal a coil spring with a tang on either side of a fixed lug. Lift off. The barrel is then free to remove/replace. Alter sliders just as with tailgate lock. Reverse procedure to assemble, putting grease on new barrel and a small blob on the coil spring. Oil pivot pins & trigger spring, refit to door.I used the best Golf barrel as a straight swap because one stainless steel outer key-trim was mangled on the 924S.
Because the other Golf item had a similarly mangled key-trim, I just removed the set of brass sliders, keeping them in order, and swapped them for the sliders in good 924S lock.
Update. January 12th.Locking petrol cap.The red plastic cover is a snap fit and levers off easily with a screwdriver.Pull the central plastic moulding complete with key barrel out of the main plastic body. There is a sprung loaded plunger on the inner end that allows the whole unit to rotate when unlocked and lets the outer cap 'click' round when fully tight.Remove small wire U-clip from the plastic body and remove key barrel. Change sliders as per tailgate lock.On reassembly, make sure the small cam on inner end of the barrel fits into the plunger. If the key is turned 180 degrees from 'unlocked' position and withdrawn, this holds the plunger down and the outer cap just spins freely as an anti-theft measure.Snap the outer cover back in place.
