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Temp Gauge???

Lemon

Member
Hello all

I have seen many posts about changing the thermostat to alter or increase temp on start up etc.
I do not seem to be getting a reading at all or if it is it's very low.
How do you check to see if everything is OK? And the sender unit is working etc?

Also have slight judder on hard braking which I assume to be Worn or warped disc?
If these symptoms are the same for others with this same problem did you change for standard Porsche disc's, or would you recommend a different make or upgarded disc?

Help the "upgrade word" has already crept into another thread for me(2 in 12 hours!!!)

Cheers yet again guys

Lee
 
Temp gauge - Sharp tap on the instrument panel wakes mine up when its sleepy running the engine whilst stationary even with no thermostat you should see the gauge move eventually. IIRC, I think the sender is at the front of engine on top hiding under some of the intake plumbing.

Warped discs are not that common unless they are worn and therefor thinner. They are not very expensive or particularly difficult to fit. Sticking calipers is quite common, the calipers corrode under the slider plates and cause the pads to bind, a quick fix involves filling the edges of the pads, the proper solution is removing and cleaning behind the plates (replacing plates as neccesary). ticking calipers may contribute to disc warping.

The other thing that may cause disc 'wobble' is corrosion or dirt between the rear of disc face and the hub face where the disc is mounted.

Tony
 
Hopefully it is just the sender, which is on the engine block, but I can't find any pictures just now. [:mad:]

The fans should still kick in when the engine heats up as they work seperately to the sender for the dash gauge, do you know if this happens?

The brakes could be warped, or it could be that the previous owner has done a track day and not cooled the brakes down sufficiently. This can cause pad material to burn onto the disks when you come to a rest, which gives the judder until it wears off again. Are the disks nice and clean, do you know if the previous owner let the car stand for long periods?

Disks are about £50 each and pads £45 from Bert gear at www.berlyn-services.co.uk, I personally thing that standard brakes are fine on the 250 bhp 944T - no need to upgrade until you get to looney power levels [8D]

Bert is the 944 tech rep for the club and maybe able to advise you better about the sender and the judder
 
Have not tried tapping the temp gauge yet!!!

Still getting used to everything as I have only had the car 48 hours so it may work and I do not realise it. My neighbour has a 944 Turbo will see where his sits as a guide to mine. Just paranoid about cooking the engine without realising it!!!

Regards the brakes, I do not believe the guy before me was doing track days, although it has not had much use in the last 3 months.

Will get it all checked out at my local specialist when I take it in for a service.

There is a fair amount of wear on the front discs so they could probably do with a change.

Cheers

Lee
 
As a rough guide, if I start mine and just leave it idling, it takes about 5 mins before the gauge even moves off the bottom.

It may be worth doing that and just watching things, seeing when the fans switch off and on etc. Obviously if the coolant in the tank starts bubbling you are overheating [:eek:] so be very careful
 
When I bought my cab it hadn't been ued much for a few months and it had a brake judder - bad enough that I was going to get the discs skimmed, but over time it went away by itself. By time I mean 6 weeks and 6,000 miles or so. Probably using them hard would accelerate the process if it works for you.
 
I washed my car a couple of weeks ago after driving on salty snow covered roads. After washing the car stood for over a week without use. When I did get in to drive it again the brakes had rusted solid and the car wouldn't move. With a bit of forward and reverse gear the brakes eventualy went bang and freed.

For the next 20 miles the brakes felt terrible. Little retention to start off with and awfull judder. With a bit of use they are now back to normal with no apparent problems.

The moral of this story? If your car has been standing, particularly if it has had salt on it, the brakes could just be rusty and sticky. They might well clear once you get using the car again.
 
Thanks everyone.

I will just have to sneak out for more drives after work and free them off.

Good excuse to take her out anyway!!!

Cheers
 
Hi

Looked under the bonnet today, small what looked like vacuum pipe undone under bonnet, plugged back onto pipe and hey presto water temp gauge is working.

Thank god for that.

Just got to find out why the water does not circulate around the turbo when I switch the ignition off for 30 seconds or so like it does on my neighbours Turbo.

Any thoughts here would be helpful.

Cheers
 
From memory there is a seperate switch for the auxilliary water pump on Turbos, it shold be listed on the fuse box card.

The switch itself is by the manifold (pictured) mine wobbles a lot but still works

If your pump isn't working them make sure you let the engine idle a little bit before you switch off, so that the Turbo has a chance to cool down properly, especially ater a spirited blast [;)]

34451FEC265447A9BFB03452E85D947A.jpg
 
Thanks Paul.

Yes my plug bit on the manifold is a bit wobbly aswell.

Will do some further investigation at the weekend.

Thanks for your words of wisdom yet again


Cheers

Lee
 
Hi Lee
So ome on spill the beans, what did u buy, colour, spec, mileage etc Where did you get it from ?

Regards

Allan
 
Hi Allan

You spotted me!!! I did try and send you a mail to let you know that I have purchased a car, thought you may have got it.

Well I have bought a late 1988 944 Turbo S minus the sunroof, but with cruise control. The usual other goodies are on board.
Full black leather and I think the colour is either Ocean Blue or Nautic Blue(a very nice colour) Code LY5Z. 121,000 miles, good history etc and a very clean and tidy example with immaculate interior.

Needs a few service items sorting, but apart from that its great.

I will pop past one afternoon

Cheers


Lee
 
Jules,

Obviously the squealing is not good and probably points to the electric pump starting to wear out. If its still working ok you should see a plume of water in the coolant tank while its running. You could wait for it to fail totally and then get it replaced or have someone look at it now (maybe it's repairable, or a bearing needs lubing/ adjusting)

If it does fail you can still drive the car for a while observing the idling rule, but in the long, long term it will help your turbocharger wear out quicker. That pump was introduced because of early failures on the 924 Turbo and it's one of the reasons our cars can go on for a long time
 
The water pump should run when the engine is switched off, even if the 'wobbly sensor' is faulty, I think this is controlled by one of the relays, and will cause the pump to run whenever you switch off the ignition. My sensor was very wobbly and didn't work, I compressed the metal to stop it wobbling, it worked once. I now have a new 'non-wobbly' sensor.

The 'wobbly sensor' is a temperature switch which switches the turbo pump on should the coolant in the turbo reach 115 degrees. It basically shorts to ground so for test purposes you can make the pump work by disconnecting the lead from the sensor and connecting it to ground. Testing the sensor is more tricky, I set mine up to flash an LED when it is working - (not often in normal use) I guess removing it and setting up a simple circuit with some hot liquid and a thermometer.
Or buy a new one to be safe around £30 IIRC

Tony
 

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