Time to man up, yikes

[supersport]

My 944 has always weeped oil since I bought it 4 or 5 years ago, but since being pressed back into daily use for the last couple of weeks including a noon around the Yorkshire moors the weep has become more of a flow.

This is a real shame as it has crept back under my skin and it has been great fun driving it around again, you soon realise how good these cars are. It seems that you can pretty much throw them around with abandon with coming a cropper []

So give the rapid flow of oil, that I haven't looked into yet, but in the past it either weeped from the oil filter and the oil pressure sender. There is always the chance that it is one of these and therefore a simple solution. However, at 207,000 miles and no head gasket change, the belts and water pump were done just before I bought it, so up for changing on a time basis, maybe it is time to man up and take the head off and do everything in one go.

One of the things I wanted to do when I got this car was more myself, I have done brakes and various jobs but am still really a complete novice at spanner wielding. So I need to do some research into what I need to do and what processes to go through, and any gotchas to look out for along with tips and hints.

So any pointers, reading lists and advice that anyone has would be gratefully received. Ideally I would like to get her up and running again for the Bedford track day, as am a bit gutted that I can't book yet. I missed out on the last one due to the snow and couldn't make the re-run. I definitely can't take it on track is it is though.

Ta

 

[bmnelsc]

Try clarks's garage - lots of how tos and pointers here.
http://www.clarks-garage.com

 

[JM1962]

If you are a complete novice the first thing you are going to need is a few tools, such as a torque wrench, belt tensioner tool, flywheel lock, jack, axle stands, some Allen type sockets and a quality socket set.

I find removing the radiator gives you a lot more room to work and really helps when doing the belts. You will need to get the head skimmed before refitting and I presume you will be lapping the valves and replacing the stem seals which means even more tools like a valve spring compressor. The job is fairly straight forward if you have some basic engineering knowledge.

 

[geoffbateman]

Have a good look, a really good look at the joint between the oil cooler housing and the engine block.
The gasket will quite often have failed at a lower mileage than you have done.
I found I needed to remove the front O/S wheel and the engine underpan so that I could see better. The trouble is, if it is leaking there it
drips off the oil sender and relief vale etc so it's difficult to tell which one, especially if it has been leaking for some time and it is
oily round there.
I cleaned the area pretty thoroughly to start with (engine degreaser and good rinse with hose - NOT pressure washer) and let it dry.
Then start up the engine and wait to see where oil comes from. Take great care as with engine running you don't want to get mixed up with
moving parts.
I find the old mirror on a stick and a torch is useful.
If it is leaking it's a cheap fix, you can get a seal kit for about £22 and there are posts on here from people that have done it. It's a bit fiddly
but I found that once I'd got the exhaust manifold off, which was about the most fiddly part, the rest was fairly straight forward working from
above and below.

 

[supersport]

Got tools, stands etc and had car up on them many times. Also familiar with Clarkes.

Oil cooler is a good idea have heard of that causing problems before so will check it out.

 

[vitesse]

I did mine recently without risking removing the exhaust nuts & potential stud fractures-bit fiddly but with 1/4 " flexible drive joints ,extending magnet etc managed it--mine was leaking water not oil,though.