Tips for running in
- Thread starter Guest
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Guest
New member
Thats it, I was advised to avoid going above 4000-rpm for the first 1800 miles, they also said as it was progressing through the run in period to occasionally open it up a bit but not to go to hard, although some advice is red line it as often as you can, I prefer the less aggressive approach myself.
Michael Downing
New member
The advice I remember being given is to make sure the engine is fully warmed, and to be gentle until it is.
Still doing that @ 9,000 miles, though.
Still doing that @ 9,000 miles, though.
Irrespective of a cars mileage its not fully warmed up until its done approximately 10 miles. After 5 miles its warmed up enough for spirited driving but wouldn't max the revs until 10 miles has passed [8D] And even then I would think thrice before doing anything drastic with the loud pedal
ORIGINAL: daro911
Irrespective of a cars mileage its not fully warmed up until its done approximately 10 miles. After 5 miles its warmed up enough for spirited driving but wouldn't max the revs until 10 miles has passed [8D] And even then I would think thrice before doing anything drastic with the loud pedal
...but Robert in London that could takes a couple of hours of traveling and even after that you'll still be in London (that is some serious commitment)
ORIGINAL: renquist
My run in ended about 400 miles ago and i still have to consciously "give it some"
I should have bought a MX5 [
...or a TVR as apparently majority of engine failures and problems (and there are a lot of them) happen because people do not know how to properly run-in the car and when they do, they do not wait for the engine to warm-up. Did you know they offer a run-in service for a grand or so? That is a good idea for a lot of new impatient Porsche owners out there.
Alan Woods
New member
I hereby announce that I can undercut TVR on Sagaris models by up to 50% for this service
Alan.
ORIGINAL: Alan Woods
I hereby announce that I can undercut TVR on Sagaris models by up to 50% for this service
Alan.
Get in line Alan, I would do it for free [
] but sadly we have been superseded by machines, apparently it is done on machines, so the interior and the body is still brand spanking new. Which is ironic as the car is build by hand...
Guest
New member
The original reason for running is was to get all the parts to slowly wear together.
Due to manufacturing tolerances/processes, you have machining marks on the cylinder bores, pistons and cylinder rings. The materials vary in hardness.
What you want to do is cause them to polish each other and wear nice and smooth.
What you do not want to do, is cause one to score the other.
Manufacturing is better than it used to be, so the scope for problems is smaller.
However, thrashing it out of the box will not cause the parts to polish other as well as they could, so you will accelerate cylinder bore wear and will consume more oil.
Some claim to thrash it allows you to get more power. Perhaps, since you reduce some of the internal friction, but it is at the expense of longevity (not an issue is you sell after 2 years, which is why I like to buy new).
The same is also true of the cams, rockers, valves, gearbox, etc.
Everything will benefit from some running in.
You want to vary the speed and revs so that you do not set up a particular harmonic and create a certain wear pattern.
You should allow the car to warm up before pushing it hard, this is beacuse the parts have different rates of thermal expansion. The parts have the correct tolerances when warm, not cold.
If you push it hard when cold, it wears faster. Also the oil (whatever they claim) works best when warm.
You can tell when it is warm by using the temperature guage (that is what it is for). Mileage is irrelevant. Although sitting idling is not ideal and does not warm the gearbox.
I think there is an element of the manufacturers urging caution to allow the driver to get used to the car.
Once warm though (and run in), you can do what you like. You should extend it regularly, everyday preferably, and also take long runs (1-2 hours on the motorway) every month.
I stop 500rpm short of the redline (since you are past peak torque and power) but use all the remaining revs and full accelerator when conditions allow.
Performance cars are designed to be used (and need to be used), but not abused.
No point having it if you drive like an old woman, you can save yourself a shedload of money and drive a micra.
Due to manufacturing tolerances/processes, you have machining marks on the cylinder bores, pistons and cylinder rings. The materials vary in hardness.
What you want to do is cause them to polish each other and wear nice and smooth.
What you do not want to do, is cause one to score the other.
Manufacturing is better than it used to be, so the scope for problems is smaller.
However, thrashing it out of the box will not cause the parts to polish other as well as they could, so you will accelerate cylinder bore wear and will consume more oil.
Some claim to thrash it allows you to get more power. Perhaps, since you reduce some of the internal friction, but it is at the expense of longevity (not an issue is you sell after 2 years, which is why I like to buy new).
The same is also true of the cams, rockers, valves, gearbox, etc.
Everything will benefit from some running in.
You want to vary the speed and revs so that you do not set up a particular harmonic and create a certain wear pattern.
You should allow the car to warm up before pushing it hard, this is beacuse the parts have different rates of thermal expansion. The parts have the correct tolerances when warm, not cold.
If you push it hard when cold, it wears faster. Also the oil (whatever they claim) works best when warm.
You can tell when it is warm by using the temperature guage (that is what it is for). Mileage is irrelevant. Although sitting idling is not ideal and does not warm the gearbox.
I think there is an element of the manufacturers urging caution to allow the driver to get used to the car.
Once warm though (and run in), you can do what you like. You should extend it regularly, everyday preferably, and also take long runs (1-2 hours on the motorway) every month.
I stop 500rpm short of the redline (since you are past peak torque and power) but use all the remaining revs and full accelerator when conditions allow.
Performance cars are designed to be used (and need to be used), but not abused.
No point having it if you drive like an old woman, you can save yourself a shedload of money and drive a micra.
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