Top: Anti-roll bars
- Thread starter 964RS
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Hacki
Active member
Paul,
that´s not so easy to answer. The full setup depends on more than the ARBs. It is about camber, toe-in, springs, dampers, vehicle height, tyre pressure and TYRES!
Concerning the ARBs in general:
A hard ARB in the front and soft in the rear is the maximum understeer set-up. A hard rear and a soft front ARB is the maximum oversteer set-up. (Short lever means hard, long lever means soft.)
But: You can´t copy another car´s set-up, they are all a little different.
What I did is as follows: I had the car set up completely with a basic set-up to make sure everything else (as mentioned above) is fine. Then I started with a soft rear and a hard front ARB. That was too much understeer. So I made the front softer step by step (front 5 steps in the Cup car, no idea about the RS) until the rear felt too loose in FAST corners for my personal liking. So I went back one hole in the front.
Ever since that day it feels fine, it´s a neutral car now with little understeer in slow corners. For myself I chose a setup for road legal tyres that works also on bumpy roads (less camber!) It´s a compromise for track days and makes the car slower than the same car with a race setup. So find out, what you really want. And, as I don´t drive too often, the setup makes it easier to control. A faster setup makes it more difficult to get it back once you loose it.
Once you have set up your car things may change just due to new tyres. My experience is that the older the tyres get the more understeer you have. Put a new set on - understeer vanishes.
My advice is: Have it set up basicly and then find out your personal setup on a track day with technical support to make quick changes. Always keep an eye on the tyre pressures. As soon as they get to high, you´ll have an undrivable car. I think, more than 2.4 bar with HOT tyres is senseless. If possible, have an expert driver testdrive it. (Not every racing driver can set up a car though!) That will give you a second opinion.
In general a Cup car (RS shouldn´t be a big difference) really reacts on changes, so it´s fun, too.
Hope that helps,
rgds
Hacki
that´s not so easy to answer. The full setup depends on more than the ARBs. It is about camber, toe-in, springs, dampers, vehicle height, tyre pressure and TYRES!
Concerning the ARBs in general:
A hard ARB in the front and soft in the rear is the maximum understeer set-up. A hard rear and a soft front ARB is the maximum oversteer set-up. (Short lever means hard, long lever means soft.)
But: You can´t copy another car´s set-up, they are all a little different.
What I did is as follows: I had the car set up completely with a basic set-up to make sure everything else (as mentioned above) is fine. Then I started with a soft rear and a hard front ARB. That was too much understeer. So I made the front softer step by step (front 5 steps in the Cup car, no idea about the RS) until the rear felt too loose in FAST corners for my personal liking. So I went back one hole in the front.
Ever since that day it feels fine, it´s a neutral car now with little understeer in slow corners. For myself I chose a setup for road legal tyres that works also on bumpy roads (less camber!) It´s a compromise for track days and makes the car slower than the same car with a race setup. So find out, what you really want. And, as I don´t drive too often, the setup makes it easier to control. A faster setup makes it more difficult to get it back once you loose it.
Once you have set up your car things may change just due to new tyres. My experience is that the older the tyres get the more understeer you have. Put a new set on - understeer vanishes.
My advice is: Have it set up basicly and then find out your personal setup on a track day with technical support to make quick changes. Always keep an eye on the tyre pressures. As soon as they get to high, you´ll have an undrivable car. I think, more than 2.4 bar with HOT tyres is senseless. If possible, have an expert driver testdrive it. (Not every racing driver can set up a car though!) That will give you a second opinion.
In general a Cup car (RS shouldn´t be a big difference) really reacts on changes, so it´s fun, too.
Hope that helps,
rgds
Hacki
SimonExtreme
New member
I just want to emphasise this bit of the post and add 2 other things - overall condition of all suspension components and corner weighting. First off, many of our cars should have had a full suspension refresh by now. Shocks will have gone, springs ar tired and bushes either worn or simply past their best. Then, having a full geo set up (including corner weighting) is the starting point and without these being spot on, any other changes are simply trying to polish a turd (put lipstick on a pig.....) Some people seem to doubt some of this but having driven a fair number of cars and been passengers in others, I have seen for myself the difference between good and bad.
Once you know that everything is right, then you can start playing with ARB's.
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