Torsion bar end covers

[sib8292]

I'm about to have a go at these; having discovered last week that one is rusted through and the other probably will go the same way. I suspect they are the original ones judging from appearances.

Anyone got any tips? I have soaked/will continue to soak the 4 bolts with releasing fluid and I suspect some heat may be useful.

How long are the bolts? And presumably they are into captive threads in the body frame? And once they are free presumbly the whole cover just pulls off?

911 & Porsche World had a useful article recently about adjusting the torsion bar settings to lower suspension; but no specific comments about removal of the covers so maybe its easy....!

Simon

 

[engleflick]

Simon,

I will watch this thread with interest I have got to do the very same job in the near future!
In the Bentley Service Manual for 911 SC, it doesn't appear to be to complicated a job.

Good Luck, and I would like to know how you get on.

Cheers Dan.

 

[bones]

Keep trying loads of penetrating fluid , give it a few days to saok in. If you snap the bolts getting them out you should be able to drill and tap them out, they might just crumble. I wouldn't use a torch in that area.

 

[sib8292]

Ok well had a happy w/end; all work done. Bones is quite right as ever; no heat because it will damage the rubber bushes. But loads of penetrating oil over days worked and the bolts came out easily. The covers though were stuck to the bushes and needed a bit more soaking (WD40 this time) to be separated from the bushes. Good clean up and the bushes were fine, so on with new covers (I painted them with hammerite silver to "match" the car). No major problem

However while wheels were off I saw rear discs are getting worn; I fear new ones are on the list now....

 

[bones]

Glad that all worked , my main concern with heat in that part of the car is with the petrol tank! If you are contemplating new rear disks why don't you give the car a more 'sporty look' by putting on some drilled disks all round it's easily within your capabilities to do it yourself. You could laquer and stencil the calipers too.

 

[sib8292]

Now come on bones; the petrol tank is at the front of the car! But heat around rubber bushes can't be a good idea anyway.

I am thinking about the drilled discs idea; but the car is standard and I'm trying to preserve originality as far as poss. Plus I don't use it hard (track days aren't on the agenda due to lack of free time) so the need for greater braking power isn't there.

Still anyone with views on this will be welcome to comment.

 

[bones]

Excuse the paranoia but a leaking petrol tank once caused severe burns to a welder I used to know so I'm just advising caution as I haven't met you but you sound safe enough so go ahead live dangerously...lol...as to the drilled disks I doubt they make any difference on a road car. What little benefit they have in weight saving in my case is negated by the heavier wheels. As I had to change the disks anyway I wanted to enhance the look of my car for the same money and with no obvious ill side effects.

 

[oilyrag]

Sorry chaps, only just read this one, bit late I know but................
It's a good idea to use a rubber grease under the cap to prevent the rubber bush from binding up and eventually seizing to the cap due to water ingress; same goes for the other end which sits in the torgue tube. This tip came from Russell Lewis of RSR.
Rubber grease is silicone based and does not harm the rubber unlike mineral grease would. [8|]