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Trick Suspension Upgrade 40K build 924srr27L

924Srr27l

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+ Fully modular
+ Fully upgradeable
+ Track use approved
+ Damping adjustable
+ Temp.-compensation
+ Choose; Comfort or Sport settings
+ Damping-upgrade better Stability & Cornering
+ More direct steering
+ Same or better comfort
+ Ride height adjustable
+ Springs replaceable
+ Rebuildable / Upgradeable
+ Option for camberplates

ARC (Anti Roll Control)®
After years of development Intrax developed a unique way to drastically reduce unwanted roll (lateral and longitudinal)
The car will have the comfort and all the other benefits of driving with "soft” springs like extra grip and traction,
until you take a corne or need to brake then ARC® will control ride height with the feel of a sport/race/rally setup.
While driving over a curb (Trackday), or through a pot hole the suspension will absorb them like driving with soft springs.

"Black Titan” coating
Which is applied on the guidance- and piston rod. Black Titan is an development from military aircraft industry.
Their engines must perform under the toughest conditions, they must function from +40°C up to -30°C.
After they fitted their engines with Black Titan, the service interval was increased by almost 100%.
The Black Titan coating cannot rust and is extremely hard and smooth, hence the piston friction is lowered
reducing oil temperatures, improving traction and extending life time under the severest conditions.


Intrax (Holland)
As you'd expect from an expensive (£4000 set) bespoke service & Product, they wanted to know many things about the car's use,
what mods have been done, the wheels & Tyres / brakes being used and also the car's current set up and handling
characteristics...etc

From this the final spec has now gone to build stage and I'm hoping delivery within 2-3 weeks.
We've agreed to use springs on the rear as well as keeping the 27mm Torsion bars, the coil springs will be located
with a low poundage helper spring which can be set uncompressed when the car's static weight is on the axle.
This means the car's spring rate will only use the Torsion spring initially and then under heavier loading / cornering the coil spring
will add to and make the total spring rate higher.

The Springs they make their own from lightweight carbon steel which are an unusual size
2.75" ID (70mm).

The fronts have 40 and the rear 50 positions of adjustment which is at a ratio of 70% Bump & 30% rebound.
The special ARC valve only works in the bump motion, and I'm using standard rubber top mounts.

It is interesting for those that enjoy learning and understanding about things like handling, how it works,
and what it can do for you, but this is clearly not for everyone as some people see it too deep and complicated.

Normally the helper quashes to nothing at rest then any downward movement the main spring will be in force.
This is mostly used for coil springs only (like the front struts) but can also be used on the rear when an additional spring
(Coil) is fitted as a well as the (Torsion) Spring.

I wasn't keen on having any extra springs on the rear as the rear of the car feels very good,
(no wheelspin and no excessive bodyroll) hence I'm reluctant to introduce more stiffness, but the engineer
(Also a Racing driver & winner in Radical sportcars) convinced me that it's just as well that we spec a rear coil if I ever did
decide to attend another track day as it would be beneficial also because the dampers are adjustable with 50 clicks and the ARC
valve was designed / also works very well with hitting circuit kerbs (Btcc style)

So he suggested that I set the spring pan height to still show a relaxed Helper for an inch, then after the spring will
be assisting and adding it's resistance to the 220Lb Torsion bars.

They work in NM and the front springs are to be 34NM (190lbs) and the rear Coils 40NM (230Lbs) but because
of the different front & rear suspension designs and subsequently the MR (motion ratio), the wheel rates will be approx.

Front
Coil 190lbs , MR .90 (171 lbs)

Rear
Torsion bar 220Lbs MR .65 (143 Lbs)
Coil springs 230 lbs MR .65 (150 lbs)

So the rear Wheel Spring rate once the helper is coilbound and both springs are operational will be 293Lbs,
which is why I don't want this amount of stiffness at least not for the first inch or more , but only when really pushed.

It means the rear will have a dual rate, great for ride road quality and then the increase when cornering.
It may for once give the rear some oversteer balance, which if it does and it's too much the springs can be changed
and decreased, but for now I'm going with their spec & expertise.

I've got plenty of wheels and Tyres (Widths & Sizes) to be doing more trials once they are installed, but I'm not planning on
fitting them until the modified wishbones and stub axles are also done and ready to fit...

The idea to test for the first time a revised corrected wishbone Geometry, with less bumpsteer and also
all 4 corners being controlled by the trick valving is far more appealing and effective to judge the change all in one go.
There will also be less unsprung weight (aluminium strut bodies).

Intrax have a vast amount of experience in what they do, but I also need and like to understand what it is they are doing so for sure I have asked the question about will I have an abrupt rear end with effectively 2 pairs of springs but their answer is no, because what their valving and the trick ARC valve is doing is replicating an electronic system which many car's have these days. Which gives a good ride quality but stiffens when cornering hard.

The ARC valve makes the bump stroke much harder than normal sport shocks, because when it encounters a fast piston movement (Bump, pot hole, Curb etc..) it relaxes within mili-seconds and softens.
Of it didn't the compliance would be rock hard and the ride quality and crashy feeling some may of experienced when you've run hard shocks on the road?

When the shock absorber is loaded slowly EG when tipping into a corner with a slower not abrupt amount of force the valving and ARC valve has a lot of strength & support and holds and controls the car's body very well. It's almost like having 2 spring rates in that the shock varies the resistance it offers dependent on how slow or fast the piston rod travels from the road surfaces.

So getting back to these rear coils, which with the intended set up will only come in to play when a very high
amount of cornering load is applied to them which at this point is a good thing as it means the harder I push the more support I will get.

It could offer some oversteer which usually as you know the harder you push a 944 it understeers...
So this could "trim" the rear quite nicely mid to corner exit and reduce the understeer.

Once I'm happy with the set up I might return to Oulton park just to see how they react.



Here's a example from an American Racer... On a 930 who had Torsion bars front & Rear but also fitted additional rear coil springs:

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I prepared a 2720 lb track 930 with 23/31 T bars and 250 lb helper coils in the rear (along with a number of other suspension mods as well). The car ran on the track with 520 hp, on 275 and 315 Nitto NT-01 tires. My goal was increase the rear spring rate but I wanted to avoid full coilovers in order to alleviate the need for reinforcement of the rear shock towers. I felt that the relatively minimal coil spring rate of 250 lb/in did not impose enough load to the shock towers to create a problem. I wanted to reduce the squat on acceleration that was causing odd and undesirable handling during corner exits. It also made for a platform that allowed finer, easier adjustment for ride height and corner balancing.

The car handled perfectly -- it felt very linear and predictable. There was no tendency for excessive oversteer, and certainly no "snap oversteer" as has been suggested. It felt stable in slower corners (entry speeds of 35 mph) as well as the highest speed sweepers, at over 145 mph. There was no problem with setup, no strange noises coming from the suspension, and no issues with the two different springs "fighting each other." In all, it seemed like an ideal setup that accomplished the goals that I was looking for. BTW, I got the coilovers and some revalved shocks from Rebel racing and was happy with the transaction.

There are several seriously fast track 930s around here that are running rear coils and torsion bars with great success. I'm one who's not afraid of an engineering analysis or theoretical discussion, but sometimes, the best way to assess a particular setup is to also consider empirical data -- such as lap times -- from drivers who have demonstrated success.

I would certainly think that to run such a setup on the street would be absolutely fine.
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INTRAX-944-IK2l.jpg


Bespoke stub axles & wishbones are also being built to eradicate bumpsteer
The plan is fit all these items at once for a very dramatic effect / improvement on public roads.

R
www.924srr27l.co.uk


 
Whilst waiting for the shox to be built, I need to decide which wheel set and combination to set them up with and do the geometry and ride heights etc..

I've been experimenting with a 7x16 Cup rear on Michelin PS3 205/55/16 with a D90 6x16" front and 195/55/16 tyre size, which is very sharp for "turn in" and nice and light. But when pushed hard the front starts to tuck in a bit and the tyre twists and rolls which is fun but the car could be quicker.

The opposite to this set up is the heavier 8x16" Cups (All 4) and Heavier R888 215/50/16 Toyo Tyres which I tried this weekend.
The ride comfort has got more harsh due to the stiffer sidewalls, the steering effort a little more (Manual rack) but not too bad and as you'd expect the hard cornering better due to the stiffer wall / softer compound /wider lateral tyre footprint, also the braking is much more stable as the R888's are a semi slick with some slashes and cuts for water dissipation which don't move much compared to the soft sidewalled Michelin PS3 which also have 5mm+ tall channel blocks.

The Cups got a repaint / powdercoat in a Dark Bronze gloss

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R
 
The difference between the original shocks fitted:

Spax Rear telescopic Damper only (No additional coil spring)
Spax Front Insert in the original Porsche strut (Spring pan taken off)

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R
 
Stub Axles welded with the Extensions for the wishbone and steering track rods.
2K Painted in a Graphite Gloss & bolted up to the struts to check fit etc...

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The Gearshift has also had some work to make a MK2 version as the 1st prototype was vibrating @
3500rpm and the nut on the bottom of the ball a little catchy on the hand.

A gusset was added a thicker shaft and different shaped Nylon Quaife Gearknob which also bolts secure
from the top.
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R

 
Update:
Still waiting for the Wishbones to be fabricated, but I did decide to trial fit the rear shocks (Only)
to make sure the coils don't catch anywhere, to see if the helper springs can be set open at rest,
and also to work out where to fix the remote Oil cannisters...

It was close, but nothing is catching and I found homes for the Oil lines & cans.
However the helper springs are just closed when the car is at rest, with the spring collars almost at max adjustment.
but you can still turn the springs by hand, so there is no Pre-Load on them.

The adjustable bump & Rebound settings have 50 clicks, Initially I set them @ 20 from full soft for the first test.
The car has 3 sets of wheels & Tyres and on it at the moment is the widest and heaviest (R888 Toyo's / all four 8x16 on 215/50/16)
and it started to rain! but I could feel straight away the car was too stiff, so once it stopped raining I pulled over
and adjusted them on car (Or rather laying on the ground!) and reduced the settings to number 12 which was a dramatic improvement.

There is no question that they are superior to any suspension I've ever driven, not to mention the best set the 924 has ever had in comparison
to the previous 2 makes (Spax and Bilstein) and I've not got the fronts on yet!

The rear has less squat under acceleration and more stability (Less dive) under braking, also a bizarre amount of compliance over bumps and cambers
which is exactly what I paid for the unique valving system (ARC). One example would be the "Dished countours" of a roundabout which if your going straight across / over can often upset the car, but the compliance is amazing and unyet the body roll control really good!

From just 2 test sessions today I can clearly see these rear Intrax shocks are producing almost indescribable characteristics of being stiff
for good body control but also soft and compliant for road conditions.

Can't wait to get the fronts on now which have 40 clicks, I think I'll start at 15 ish, not to mention the revised wishbones and stubs which will eradicate the
bumpsteer and correct the wishbone angles to reduce body roll.

R



 
Phase 2 (Rear Shocks)

Softer Rear Coil Springs from 25Nm (143Lbs) to 20Nm (114Lbs), and 15mm thinner Lower Spring Seats / platforms.
This has allowed the Helper springs to be more open at rest, and they now close fully after approx
20mm of suspension travel, the car now handles even better and the rear feels like it literally has
2 modes of spring resistance dependant on the driving characteristics: So on the flat and at speed 80+
the ride quality and comfort is very good and acceptable, but under hard lower acceleration and cornering the rear
helpers springs quash fully flat and the car's body has more support from the additional coil springs.
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The Modified and extended Stub axles have been trial fitted and cut shorter so that they fit inside
a 16" wheel with clearance, the final spec will extend both pick up points for the lower wishbone and
steering arm by approx 35-40mm which is about the difference the car sits lower from it's standard
ride height.

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Once the Wishbones are done, the whole lot will be also be fitted with a new set of cross drilled Discs
Painted aluminium Hubs, new bearings and some bespoke Floating bolts for the Hub & Disc.
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Wheels

6J Wide x16" Rims and 195/55/16 have been tested recently and the extra performance with quicker
acceleration at all speeds is impressive enough to consider leaving this spec on, compared to the
8x16 R888 set they are 18Kg lighter which is a massive difference clearly felt when comparing the 2 set ups.
The handling on "Clio" size tyres is only marginally less stable for hard cornering, but very good for traction
and braking. This trade off is a car which must get take over a second less from 0 - 100mph


R


 
Brake Upgrade Mods being done at the same time:

Zimmermann Sport cross drilled discs, reduced diameter (machined 5mm) to stop them catching the Wilwood caliper bridge
when the diameter grows when HOT !



The 924s / early 944 Hub and disc design (Taken from the 80's 911) is almost like a 2 piece rotor and hat,
where the benefits are an aluminium hat is used to dissipate the heat better.

The wheel Hub is like a hat and is aluminium, the rotor has a large central hole (126mm)
and bolts to the hub, unlike the later 944 & 968 that use a one piece iron disc that fits over the wheel studs.



This has given me an idea to "Float" the Disc just like a 2 piece disc assembly where the bobbins allow the
disc to grow in diameter and thickness.

Shoulder bolts will be used to fix them together and with special double or triple spring coil washers
which will be preloaded with tension but also have approx. 3mm of movement until fully compressed allowing
the disc to expand when hot.

Just like the professional rotors from AP Racing and many others my machinist has slotted the disc mounting holes,
which will allow the disc diameter to expand.



R



 
Wheel & Tyre Testing

Has always been an ongoing thing for me, something I've done for decades but more so in the last
one having a job and facilities (Ramp & Tyre changer / Balancer) specialising in Wheels.

I'm always looking for what each combination does, and doesn't do on the road.
4 Main characteristics are tested:

1. Cornering (Low & high speed)
2. Acceleration (Traction & Stability)
3. Braking (Traction & Stability)
4. Compliance, (Not just Ride comfort)
but the tyre's ability to deal and cope with lumps and bumps without unsettling the car.

Many things contribute to the performance and results adversely and advantageously:

- Weight (Wheel & Tyre)
All 4 characteristics will benefit from lighter wheels & Tyres, any car will accelerate, corner
stop and ride better with lighter lumps hanging off each corners suspension, because the
reduced mass makes it easier for the engine, brakes and shock absorbers to do their job.
Easier means the engine propels the car quicker, the brakes have less mass to stop, and the
suspension also has less mass that the dampers have to control, as the springs (Coil / torsion & ARB's)
"Easier" from being lighter for all of these means the car will be faster, sharper, more efficient
and a lighter wheel & tyre will steer nicer for the driver (and steering rack) and also give the car a
better ride quality as the (Unsprung mass) is less so the car doesn't crash about over bumps.
An upgrade for better performance from wheels & tyres comes from a lighter package as opposed to
what the general marketeers lead the automotive industry which is fit bigger diameter wheels & wide tyres
because this will give you more grip and faster performance. It won't ! it will actually be worst, the 0 to 60
time will increase, the cornering may be very slightly more when tested on a skid pan, but .05 more G will
not outweigh the extra weight and adverse effects this causes for reducing acceleration and increasing braking
distances etc..Not to mention the poor compliance of a very low profile tyre has on UK roads.

- Tyre Construction
Some Manufacturers produce a stiff sidewall EG : (Bridgestone), some a softer one (Michelin)

This can play havoc with handling dependent on the car's suspension and tyre pressures.
A standard car with stiff sidewalls will feel stiffer because you've added more spring rates to the shock absorbers
and this may feel good, but the same tyre construction on a car that's got stiffer shock absorbers, or springs,
bigger wheels, or all three ! can be too much and the handling will be worst.

A softer walled compliant tyre with a stiff suspension package works well, and this is one I prefer. Let the tyre carcass
do all the work and take out the lumps, bumps and road irregularities and vibrations.
Formula 1 car's have a large profile tyre but with stiff suspension that has only Millimeters of travel. They have 13"
diameter wheels and they did test 18" wheels & tyres a few years ago to find the test car was not only 12 seconds
a lap slower but the car was a nightmare to drive because traction was worst, and cornering also too direct and
snappy on the limit because the compliance, give and higher profiles of the 13" wheels & Tyres they have used for
decades absorb much more and the tall sidewall tyres (like Dragster tyres) distort and grip better.

Same with Road car's higher sidewalls aid better traction, and braking because the contact patch is more longitudinal
(front to back) and not lateral (side to side) like wider lower profile tyres which deal with heat better.
Which is why Track orientated tyres have stiff sidewalls to cope with the heat, because soft road tyres will overheat
and start sliding when used hard on race circuits.


- Tyre Compound
Treadwear Number is the American test where they give the tyre a compound rating number based on how
fast or slow it wears. For example a hard compound tyre will have a 400+ number, a low one like a Circuit Track day
Tyre will be 80 - 100, and many Sport road tyres in between. unless Like Michelin they construct a soft sidewall for
better traction, wet grip and ride compliance but then make the compound harder for better longevity/
EG : Michelin Pilot Sport 3 is 320


- Tyre Pressure
Can be used to make handling and ride better or worst. Higher pressures will add to the car's suspension
spring and damper rates, so this can be used (Higher pressures) to improve the car's cornering control, lower pressures
can also be used if the car;s suspension is very / Too stiff and more give is required.

- Dry & Wet tarmac
Some tyres are better in one catorgary, some very good for both. Wider tyres with low profiles offer less compliance
in wet conditions and hence narrower tyre widths and smaller diameter wheels with higher side profile's handle better
in the wet.

- Track Width
A car with a Narrow track width will load (Weight transfer) the car's weight slower than a wider track which can be
advantageous (In the wet) and also the dry. Wider tracks will offer more stability when gripping but slide quicker than a
narrow track. One example of this is the current Formula 1 car's this year have a much wider track and on wider wheels
which has made the car's tricky to handle when pushed, to the point where even the best drivers cannot rescue the
car once it starts sliding, in comparison to last years car they were easier to control with narrower tyres and axle
(track) width.
The 924/944/968 has a wider front to rear ratio track width, this is to promote understeer where the front tyres push ahead
and loose grip first before the rears.

- Wheel Width
Alters the way the tyre is used and works, a wide rim & small width tyre offers less give & Compliance
which makes the steering "turn in" sharper and quicker on the front axle or can be too much and lose grip
quicker, on the rear axle less compliance also will lose grip quicker and cause oversteer

Staggered wheel widths (Wider rear rims) can upset the balance of the Porsche transaxle because of the above,
Sometimes the 50/50 weight does not lend itself to rotating the car in a corner and fitting a wider rear can cause
initial understeer then snap oversteer as the fronts cave in first then the rears give up abruptly.

A square set up with the same rim and wheel sizes allows each axle which has an equal amount of weight on it
to response accordingly. Tyre pressures can also assist here with higher rear pressures which give them less
compliance and hence they rotate better for turns.

- Tyre Width
Has different effects with different sized rim widths, A narrow Rim with a much wider tyre like a 6" (152.4mm)
wide rim with a 205mm tyre has a difference of 52.6mm or 26.3mm each side of play / compliance. On a stiffly
suspension this works really well, but it would be not as good on a standard (much softer) car because there would then
be too much give with a lot of give in the tyre and stock suspension.

- Tyre Profile
Termed as a percentage of the tyre width which can be confusing.
A 205/55/16 has smaller sidewall height than a 285/40/17 because 55% of the 205mm width is (112.75mm)
and 40% of the 285mm width is 114mm

You don't need low profile sidewalls for a car to handle well on public roads, they have been tested and the
differences on a Golf for example from a 15" wheel to a 19" wheel only gave an improvement of .04G on a
test skidpan, the very same test also revealed (the Heavier) 19" wheels took 1 second more to get to 60 mph

- Suspension settings
Are all relevant to all of the above, so a stock car will accept a wheel and tyre change (Bigger diameter / wider tyre)
better than a car with stiff suspension, all be them slower as above.

Adjustable Damping (Bump & Rebound) shock absorber's and the ability the change ride heights / corner
weights (with adjustable spring platforms) is beneficial to fine tune, especially if many things have been changed
which could clash, but being able to lower the tyre pressures and / or turn down the dampers and raise the ride height
will bring back some compliance for road use. And if it's also a track car the choice to increase all the settings and fit
wider / stiffer & Heavier wheels & Tyres for circuit trackdays.

I've tested some 6" width cup Rims all round recently with 205/55/16's Tyre and this produces a much quicker accelerating car
compared to the 8x16's & R888 215/50/16 which is also very good cornering
(Due to the stiff suspension & Anti Roll bars) but also has a good reasonable ride and compliance due to the 55% of
205mm tyre profile and lower pressures (33psi)


I've recently tested all four corners 6x16's with 195/55/16 but these tyres were too fidgety and I needed more compliance
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The rear 6x16" cups from a 911 are rare and i've only got 2 so far, hence the fronts are
911 D90 6x16 et52

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205/55/16 on all four 6" Rims is much better and so far the best choice for Fast Road use, far faster
than these.........

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R
 
Floating Brake Discs Upgrade Progress

The M8 Stainless Steel Shoulder bolts have arrived,
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Each of the 5 bolts (holding the brake Disc to the Aluminium hub) will have a double spring washer
with a thin flat washer either side, in the gap will be the thickness of the brake disc and wheel Hub
which when tightened with an M6 Aero Locknut will put some pre tension on the spring and (Hopefully)
enough to not make them rattle.

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When the bolt and nut are fully tight the spring has approx 1.8mm left of compression before it's
coilbound, this will allow room for the brake disc to expand when very hot, as will the slots also allow
the disc diameter to grow bigger.
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R

 
Bespoke Wishbones now done.....

Based on the longer & thicker later 944 type:
- original Balljoint cut off
- 50mm Aluminium boss welded on to suit a Rod end to be the same length as the shorter Early 944 / 924S
- Boss tapped and helicoiled M18
- Fitted with a 3 piece high quality M18 thread & Bore Fluro Rod end (£90 each)
- Powdercoated primer / Wet high temp Anthracite colour / Powder Clear gloss lacquer

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R


 
Update :
Bespoke Top Mounts

CNC Billet Machined - 2 plate design which unlike the original supports the bottom
of the rubber donut on the 924S / early 944 design.

Using VW / Audi New Rubber mounts ZBA 412 353

The top plate has been made to suit this larger rubber mount which also has a Tapered and not radius shape.
The bottom plate is bolted up through threads in the top mount, slightly compressing the mount and the whole
assembly is now effectively a Rubber housing.

Far more compliant and less harsh than spherical bearing racing top mounts, when used on the road but stronger and
much more supportive than the OE design.

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R
 
Powdercoated and fitted in a mock piece of chassis





Testing all 4 wheels 6Jx16 cups this week with machined centres and 205/55/16 Michelin PS3's
Acceleration is the fastest it's ever been, braking is a little more twitchy, and traction
also has more movement but no wheelspin.





Tie Rod extensions next, then the whole strut / brake / stubs and wishbones will be
ready for fitting, Corner weight & geo.

R

 
More Progress on the top mounts which when fitted on the struts to check their fitment
I noticed there was some play in the bearing which may be
normal and acceptable on a production VW Jetta, but it was not good enough for my
standards and the application.
So after much thought I found the orginal top cap fits nicely underneath the Rubber
bearing, and then with (2) 14mm ID thin thrust bearings fitted between the top of
the Spring pan and the OE Cap when tightened the play was taken out and the whole
top mount assembly was not only very sturdy without the previous wobble but also
it rotated on the thrust bearings nicely so that the entire Shock / piston and spring
assembly will rotate all together when the car and strut turns on steering lock.






R
 
Steering Tie Rods

The original 924S use a Male Tie Rod end and a Female tube to lock the adjustment.
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The modified geometry stub axles are using male rod ends for the connection but the rod end thread
is half as long as the original tie rod end.
So i designed and had made some one piece steel M14 extensions which allow the rod end to be screwed
in one end and a male thread to screw into the female track rod which has been shortened by30mm

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R
 
Update after a productive and trying couple of days "trialling" all the suspension & Brake parts on the car
with what was expected a few fitting issues....


Modified OE Tie rods with male / female adapters and rose joints, (Painted 2K)



The bottom of the wishbones had to be trimmed to provide clearance from touching the
lower wheel rim on lock, the rod end extension was cut shorter and misalignment spacers
fitted to eradicate the rod end fouling on full droop



But the strut needed to be raised also to make sure the wishbone angle when the car
was on the ground at rest would be parallel, so the bespoke Top Mounts rather than
fit them up inside the chassis as intended were fitted above the turret and with some mock up
spacers obtained a good position to give the best static positions for the tie rod and
wishbone. (A one piece Aluminium spacer is being made to replace the mock up nuts)



Here’s what the Original modified car with the Wishbone and tie rod angles too steep
looked like which produced bump steer and incorrect Roll centre geometry
and (adverse handling characteristics)



And the New set up, totally flat……….


Geometry, computer corner weight scales setup (inc driver) & then Testing coming soon....

R
 
OMG ! would be one word to describe the way the car now drives with all of the above fitted, but not even with
the front camber, caster and toe set yet as I'm taking it to Demon Tweeks for that this afternoon.

For a year I've had this feeling that the front even though is very stiff for a road car but still rolls too much and tucks in like
steering a wheelbarrow!

Now I know what I've read about lowering the Transaxle car's and positioning the wishbones and tie rods incorrectly does cause
the car to Roll more than standard and the tie rods will "steer" on their on accord when encountering bumps (Bumpsteer)
For those that doubted this, and a lot of car's that are lowered with owners claiming they handle fine I'm 101% confident to
declare this is simple not true.

The reduction in front end body roll is massive! Unyet the new Intrax dampers and 170Lb springs are softer then the previous
190lbs and Bilstein B6 inserts, but now the ARB and wishbones are level and their arc of rotation and movement is as Porsche
intended. The steering is lighter, like it's no longer fighting the car's previous set up the lack of bump steer is a massive improvement and now the car dips and rises with no change or resistance in steering.

The brakes also are performing incredibly well as they now have 5 fully floating pins which allow them to move to the contours
of the pad surfaces especially when cornering and the taper wheel bearings have a small amount of play in them, not to mention
the caliper brackets which often can be a little out of alignment and cause some inbalances again the discs are free to move with
the calipers and not against them.

Anyone that is seriously into Handling on any 24/44/68 needs to consider this set up and components to get the best handling
for road or track.


R
 
Lightweight Door set progressing....
Back from the fab shop after having X Door bars and a front panel welded & Riveted in


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The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

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