turbo no boost

[lacedr]

as you may know the car is new to me and i havent used it since collecting it on saturday anyway went to use it today and it was driving with no boost it was spluttering like it was rich would kick in for a bit then splutter.
when the car is ticking over and you rev it the boost gauge will not move and is the -
cheers
Dave

 

[Frenchy]

Boost Gauge does not move into + when not driving (NO LOAD), sounds like it could be temp sensor, plugs or MAFpossibly split diaphragm in the FPR.

 

[lacedr]

ah could be temp sensor as cold start is not good either,like no virtually no tickover
Dave

 

[944 man]

Possibly a boost hose off too.

 

[lacedr]

have tried to look cannot see any off but you never know!

 

[944 man]

Does it start to boost/pull and then stop? This would suggest a fuel cut.

 

[lacedr]

Yes it does. What do you think fpr ?

 

[944 man]

Fuel cut protects you from excessive boost. I suspect that the small problem that I have is due to the setting on the Lindsey Racing boost profiler. It needs to be wound off a little because it doesnt work with colder mornings.

 

[Indi9xx]

Is it still fitted with a cycling valve under the back of the intake manifold near the spark plugs and vacuum hose take offs.

If it has a boost enhancer fitted, 944man is very much right, in winter they lead to overboosts, but this should give you boost and then a reasonably violent cut of power.

Yank and pull on the two hard pipes going to the intercooler, while paying attention to the rubber pipes connected to them, sometimes they push themselves out of the rubber couplings on the intercooler, which then results in all the boost escaping as soon as the pressure gets above atmospheric pressure, which will also cause a rich running fault because all that escaping air has been through the airflow meter and so the engine management system thinks it is being consumed by the engine and not escaped.

 

[lacedr]

Thanks for the replies I will have a look and see what if any boost enchancer.
will check pipes to intercooler thanks for the tips.

 

[lacedr]

after tightening up a few hose clips i thought i had cured the problem i had untill half boost it then cuts out again
also it starts up straight away from cold but will not tick over straight away, the op said it had only just stated to do this.

The original air filter has been removed and a cone type one is in use instead i will post a picture of the engine bay. would it be better to have a standard set up ? it fits below the metal inter cooler pipe its a pretty tight fit.

not sure if this makes a difference but the car has a MotorsportEmerald K3 ECU running everything including boost control, MAP Sensor etc.
i have not changed anything on it and was running fine.
cheers
Dave

 

[lacedr]

I have a switch in the car for the boost control. I have been trying this on full boost I will drive the car later on normal boost and try that
cheers
Dave

 

[ChasR]

Aha, so you bought *that* Turbo? . Plenty of potential with that IMO.

IMO I would look at the TPS connection. I have seen the connectors on these become iffy due to forceful connection of the plugs. It seems that may have caused issues previously judging by the wiring on the photo.

With that car running a MAP sensor as well, there is a chance that the MAP connection could be iffy in addition to the sensor being full of crud (cleaning it with carb cleaner may help. I would as the others said look out for boost leaks but I would expect the MAF to counteract that.

Furthermore, I see the inlet air temperature sensor (IAT) is in the silicon boost pipe. For me personally I would look at that area as a source of leaks unless you are sure that it does not leak from there at all. I would have preferred for the sensor to have been placed into one of the metal pipes with the relevant boss installed.

The air filter here should make that much difference IMHO.

Finally, I would get the Emerald software to look into some of the values the car is throwing up (it will tell you the throttle position, MAP reading, coolant temp, inlet temp etc.). While the software is free (http://www.emeraldm3d.com/software-manuals) The cable however may be the tricky part unless the car came with one (Dave Walker reconfigures a serial port cable to work with his ECUs). If this cable is not present I would personally be called Emerald to obtain another cable. I do have the software and cable if you happen to be close to Warwick one of the days.

He does offer a few FAQs on checking various sensors on his website as well (http://www.emeraldm3d.com/faq)

 

[lacedr]

Twas me.
yes I do still have the cable so will plug into the laptop tonight.
I try to put an air test on too.
now on the hunt for a few bits and pieces!
thanks

 

[edh]

ORIGINAL: lacedr

I have a switch in the car for the boost control. I have been trying this on full boost I will drive the car later on normal boost and try that
cheers
Dave

There's usually a hose connecting to the LHS of that hard pipe from the crankcase / AOS isn't there? Hard to see from the photos but is that now blanked off? I can see a hose just underneath - where is that going? Do you have a catch tank now?

When I had problems like this it was a boost leak - easy to miss & forget to tighten one of the connections, particularly the hard pipe / intercooler ones. This car is non-standard though, so much more difficult to fault find.

 

[ChasR]

I see that the car has yet to be mapped which possibly could affect things. Before taking it up, I would ensure that the relevant bits and pieces are in order although you probably already knew that .

 

[944 man]

First thing Id buy would be a KnockLink!

 

[TTM]

ORIGINAL: edh
There's usually a hose connecting to the LHS of that hard pipe from the crankcase / AOS isn't there? Hard to see from the photos but is that now blanked off? I can see a hose just underneath - where is that going?

I think this ECU controls idle speed with an ignition table triggered below a certain engine speed and when TPS = 0%, whence the idle control valve and its hoses having been removed.

 

[edh]

ORIGINAL: TTM

ORIGINAL: edh
There's usually a hose connecting to the LHS of that hard pipe from the crankcase / AOS isn't there? Hard to see from the photos but is that now blanked off? I can see a hose just underneath - where is that going?

I think this ECU controls idle speed with an ignition table triggered below a certain engine speed and when TPS = 0%, whence the idle control valve and its hoses having been removed.

Oh I see

been a long time since I looked at a turbo engine bay - this one looks a bit scary...

 

[lacedr]

Had a good luck around the engine bay today and tightened up lots of not very tight hose clips.
Normal power has been resumed.
Now to start on a long list of jobs
First up getting the ecu set up properly!
Thanks for all the advice
Shall keep you posted of the progress.
Dave