Menu toggle

Tyre wear, RMS and clutch....

robbosliding

robbosliding

PCGB Member
Member
I posted a little while ago in the vain hope I had over filled my engine oil and a breather had let it out.......vain it was. I had a look under my car today and it is the RMS......again. It was done under warranty 7000 miles ago by a very willing indy dealer (911 Sport, Lincs) having bought the car from them, and they have indicated they will sort it for me again. Certainly a way to keep my custom.
I am rapidly appraoching that servicing time so a reasonable approach will be to share the cost comsumables such as oil which I'd be changing anyway with the servicing. I have really been impressed with the service they have given me to date. On a down side whilst I was looking under the car I saw the rear tyres which I thought had lots of life left in them...haven't. The centre of the tyre profile is nearing the wear indicators so a new set of rear boots to throw into the equation. I have been quoted £200 for each tyre fitted, can anyone do better than that? Seems a very good price to me.
 
If the centre of the tyres are wearing more than the outsides, it would indicate over-inflation. Might be worth checking your gauge.

£200 sounds cheap-ish for 295/30/18's - what make?

Depending on your mileage, it might be worth considering a new clutch, especially if the pedal is getting heavy (first sign of wear). However, you might just want to assess it when they take it off.
 
Over inflation was my first thought but then I have been on the button with 44 PSI so over inflation should'nt be an issue. I have no reason to suspect geometry and the guy at the tyre fitters reckons wider tyred car do wear in the middle. I am aware that the outsides don't generally wear unless used really hard, tracked etc.
The tyres are Continental Contact Sport N2, limited to anything else really.
What sort of mileage should a clutch achieve. I'm nearly at 28k. Feels fine to me, a little heavier than most other cars but it is engaging alot more power than other cars. I test drove a 997 C4S last week which was marginally lighter but it is not causing me problems. Is it possible to visually check a clutch then when dismantled and assess it that way? I was wondering whether it would make practical sense to do the RMS/clutch and service in one hit?
 
Given the degree of negative camber on the cars, with the wide wheels, if not driven hard, it is usually the inner edge that wears first. To be fair, on the Continental SportContact2s that I've used on the 17s, 18s and other cars, the middle seems to wear first and I think when new the middle grooves are slightly shallower that the outer ones.
 
There is no hard and fast rule about clutch life - it all depends on the user. Could be anywhere between 10,000 if you are an animal and 70,000 miles if you drive like Miss Daisy. You can assess the wear on the friction plate when it is out, and they have to strip the clutch to remove the flywheel to get to the RMS. I would see what happens when they do that.

I used to get very even wear on my C2, and believe that was due to the alignment being set to the factory recommendations. The Contis on my Turbo wore very evenly - albeit at a hugely excessive rate!
 
ORIGINAL: Richard Hamilton

There is no hard and fast rule about clutch life - it all depends on the user. Could be anywhere between 10,000 if you are an animal and 70,000 miles if you drive like Miss Daisy.
Click to expand...

I'm just about to get the clutch changed on my GT3 - 52,000 miles on the original & it's still fine. I'm only getting it changed because I'm going to a single piece flywheel setup. I'm not an animal, but I have done around 30 trackdays, so I'm not pussying around either. Mechanical sympathy and correct heel & toe technique helps clutch life enormously [:D]

I used to get very even wear on my C2, and believe that was due to the alignment being set to the factory recommendations.
Click to expand...

Geo is the main culprit if you get rear inner shoulder wear, IME. I run quite aggressive negative camber on the rear (-2.25 degrees ATM) and I get completely even tyre wear as long as I have 15 minutes of toe out on the rear. This is a critical setting, along with making sure they are identical side to side. There's a bolt on an eccentric which adjusts the camber on the rear & this can stretch after a number of adjustment cycles. Once it has stretched, it will torque up but not actually grip correctly so allowing the camber to change under load. Changing the camber also changes the toe...
It's definitely worth checking for this but be prepared, the bolts are nearly £30 each!
 
Bit off topic - but I am new here, and wondered.. How exactly do you spot RMS - where do I need to look? (I tried a search, and so much RMS stuff comes up, I couldn't find it)

No reason for me to suspect I have an issue - But paranoia has set in and it will be nice to know where to look and what to look for for the future.

Thanks in advance - sorry for the partial Hi-jack of the thread.
 
Nick - you have it in a nutshell there - "mechanical sympathy". Miss Daisy was a bad analogy.

Sam - this is what to look for:

EEBEB350406C4B8D824D57B0DAE67742.jpg
 
I had the clutch looked at (they had a feel of the weight of the pedal). Fella said it was a little worn ie getting a little heavier with a reckoning of 50% wear from new but nothing drastic. However fella said whilst the RMS is done it would be worth popping in a new clutch, the cost is in the labour and the work is done during RMS job twinned with a service I can see the logic.
 
I did the same on my C2 Robbo. RMS was done under warranty and I had the cluch done parts only at the same sort of mileage as yours.

Looks like a definate keeper after this work has been done[;)]

good luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members

Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions

Disclaimer

The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

Porsche
Lockton
Pirelli
Officially approved
Oracle Finance
WEX Esso
Collecting Cars
Archant Dialogue
Back
Top