dtunnicliffe
New member
Anyone ideas why I should have warm air in the foot-well even though the heater blower is set to off and dash controls set to fresh air in cabin?
Dave
Dave
Warm air in foot-well with heater off..
- Thread starter dtunnicliffe
- Start date
Guest
New member
The first thing to check would seem to be the heater valves in the engine compartment, as they would appear to be not directing the hot air back into the engine compartment when the heater is off.
Is it both footwells, as there is a valve per side of the car (footwell, effectively).
If just one, then that valve must be not working proper (bit of a b*gg*r to get at/replace) as they do rust/sieze ?
Both would seem to be the cable from the control box.
I assume that you have the red heater slider, in the cabin, set to the left (footwell) as opposed to the right (screen).
Is it both footwells, as there is a valve per side of the car (footwell, effectively).
If just one, then that valve must be not working proper (bit of a b*gg*r to get at/replace) as they do rust/sieze ?
Both would seem to be the cable from the control box.
I assume that you have the red heater slider, in the cabin, set to the left (footwell) as opposed to the right (screen).
dtunnicliffe
New member
Morning John!
Thanks for prompt reply. Yep, just drivers side. red slider set to footwell. I had a nasty feeling you were going to suggest it was the valve..
I know how to fix 964 matrix - easy all 5 flap valves are in front of the screen.. I guess I'll have to get either over my chum's pit or take it down the road to my friendly Independant.. as I doubt I can get up under the thing.
Thanks, I'll let you know how I get on.
Dave
Thanks for prompt reply. Yep, just drivers side. red slider set to footwell. I had a nasty feeling you were going to suggest it was the valve..
I know how to fix 964 matrix - easy all 5 flap valves are in front of the screen.. I guess I'll have to get either over my chum's pit or take it down the road to my friendly Independant.. as I doubt I can get up under the thing.
Thanks, I'll let you know how I get on.
Dave
Gary71
New member
Dave,
You can get to the valves if you lay on your back on stick your arm up above the trailing arm. Careful use of a screwdriver can open or close the valves as required.... This was my preferred (!) technique for turning the heater on and off when the valves had rusted so much the spring would not longer close them properly.
They rebuild really easily though, soak the fixing nuts in WD40 several days before you plan to remove them. Once you have them off knock the pivot pin out slightly and this then allows you to get to all the rusty surfaces to clean them up. A coat of hammerite and a few tweaks to make them open and close properly and they are fine.
They should be easy enough to get to if you have a pit.
Good luck!
You can get to the valves if you lay on your back on stick your arm up above the trailing arm. Careful use of a screwdriver can open or close the valves as required.... This was my preferred (!) technique for turning the heater on and off when the valves had rusted so much the spring would not longer close them properly.
They rebuild really easily though, soak the fixing nuts in WD40 several days before you plan to remove them. Once you have them off knock the pivot pin out slightly and this then allows you to get to all the rusty surfaces to clean them up. A coat of hammerite and a few tweaks to make them open and close properly and they are fine.
They should be easy enough to get to if you have a pit.
Good luck!
Guest
New member
Yes. Its because you have a 3.2 Carrera. My car is hot all summer and freezing all winter. No matter what position the red Knob is on or the levers its always the same. It makes me smile because its part of the character of the car. I suppose its not right and that it can be fixed, but for how long? Unless it really bothers you I would forget about it and just open the windows. It works for me!
dtunnicliffe
New member
Some good and interesting approaches to sticking heater valves. I am grateful for the contributions. Lets see how I get on over the weekend!
"Warmly yours"
Dave (with the windows open)
"Warmly yours"
Dave (with the windows open)
Guest
New member
NO ! It's because you don't get the simple mechanical jobs done !
The system works well enough if you bother.
I asssume that you wouldn't tolerate a missfiring engine, so why would you tolerate a badly adjusted heater valve.
Stop perpetuating the myth, and try to deal with reality. The system is not perfect, but no car has a perfect system.
This is in the same vein as all the early porkers that went into the hedge backwards - apocryphal.
Guest
New member
Got to support John here - my system works well but I ensure that the fans are working and that the mechanical linkages are well lubricated. Whilst the system requires more manual intervention than, for example, the climate control in our Audi, it nevertheless works well as a non air conditioned system.
Roy
Roy
dtunnicliffe
New member
John, Roy et al, you absolutely correct. I wouldn't dream of driving a car, any car, that was running rough let alone one with a dodgy heater valve.
I only started the debate for guidance chaps. [having paid out good money for one independent to tell me he couldn't fix the lack of heating on one side of my then 964, I went to Rennlist Forum and got what felt like hundreds of replies. Armed with the info' (complete with photos of how to do it from one subscriber)], I was able for £84 to replace a flap motor. So in this case, I was again seeking guidance from those who had already done the job, no more no less.
Overalls, WD40, tools and goggles at the ready for Saturday morning. The job WILL be done!
Happy Porsche motoring
Dave
I only started the debate for guidance chaps. [having paid out good money for one independent to tell me he couldn't fix the lack of heating on one side of my then 964, I went to Rennlist Forum and got what felt like hundreds of replies. Armed with the info' (complete with photos of how to do it from one subscriber)], I was able for £84 to replace a flap motor. So in this case, I was again seeking guidance from those who had already done the job, no more no less.
Overalls, WD40, tools and goggles at the ready for Saturday morning. The job WILL be done!
Happy Porsche motoring
Dave
Guest
New member
Dave
Didn't mean for this to go into 'heated discussion' mode (neither did anyone else, I believe, but we can all be a bit 'touchy' at times ! - well, apart from me, that is !)
So, carry on asking - it will give the rest of us a chance to be helpful/wander off subject/pass remarks/whinge/stamp our feet/have a tantrum (delete as appropriate).
Didn't mean for this to go into 'heated discussion' mode (neither did anyone else, I believe, but we can all be a bit 'touchy' at times ! - well, apart from me, that is !)
So, carry on asking - it will give the rest of us a chance to be helpful/wander off subject/pass remarks/whinge/stamp our feet/have a tantrum (delete as appropriate).
Guest
New member
I tried to renovate my heater flaps and while it wasnt too difficult to undo the bolts that secure the boxes to the car (just fiddly) I couldnt free the control cable from the boxes. It had rusted solid and I didnt want to have to cut it off so I gave up.
If anyone has any tips for removing the cable when its rusted on then they would be good to know and be prepared for if your doing this job.
Cheers
Andy
If anyone has any tips for removing the cable when its rusted on then they would be good to know and be prepared for if your doing this job.
Cheers
Andy
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