Waterproofing the roof

[Hannu]

Anyone used "FABSIL" brush on waterproofing on the roof ??.

Been looking for spray-on Scotch-guard for ages now but no-one seems to supply it any longer.

Found "FABSIL" spray-on whist on a trip in Wales and also 2.5ltr tins to cover Tents by using a brush.
Sounds a good idea then you don't get "over-spray" on the body and rear plastic window!.
Unless someone is going to tell me its a bad idea !!!![]

 

[Guest]

I've never used it myself but I've heard of people who have used it and they seem pretty happy with the results, I'll be going down that route next time my roof is due as the masking off/over-spray is a pain, not sure if you still get the scotch-guard style beading of water droplets though so do tell after you've had a go.

 

[Guest]

I use Fabsil spray and it seems to work well.

on reading others comments in different forum groups, it does seem tnat many are starting to use the brush on in order to prevent having to mask the paintwork.

Some have also used Thompsons Water Seal (for use on fabrics type)

 

[Rob Edwards]

Hi Hannu
Yes, Fabsil should be fine for your roof - just be careful not to put too much one as this can cause patches that stay sticky for longer than required. As a tent proofer, this will work well on surfaces where the 'breathability' factor is not as critical as say, a Goretex jacket where transferrance of moisture/air needs a proofer with greater performance (I sell the stuff as have probably gathered!).
I used Fabsil spray (you get a better uniformity of application IMO) on the roof of my old 986S without any problem, although the masking off bit was a nuisance.
Good luck!
Rob[]

 

[Guest]

Do you still get the beading like with Scotch-guard?

 

[THX911]

I use Autoglym fabric hood protector and get the water beading all the time; it is only after a heavy soak (usually after several hours of rain or when I do a heavy force hose pipe spray for several minutes) that it stops beading. The last time I protected it was some 3 months back and even today when I just had the hose pipe on it all the water just danced away from it... I'm very please with it and will reprotect it before the end of the month...

 

[Guest]

yes Fabsil will make the water 'bead'

 

[JCB..]

Has anyone actually had their rag-top leak?

JCB..

 

[Hannu]

Just managed to get it sorted !. Contacted all the well known proofers and Fabsil were the only ones that would recommend there product for car roofs, Fabsil gold.
However in the mean time I found some Scotch-Guard at Swissol for under a £5 a tin and one tin did it.
See what everyone means about masking off though it takes more time to do that than proofing the roof.
Its out in the rain now and the waters is beading nicely.

 

[Elliot Davies]

Fabsil for me too.
It does need re-doing every so often, cheap and easy to apply, get it at the camping shops and the likes..........
£4.50 for a V.big can that will do it about 4 times

 

[Guest]

I've just bought some Scotchgard - how much of the can should I be using on the roof?

 

[thboxster]

I used Scotchgard last Autumn, got it from B&Q. I gave the roof a reasonably liberal coating and it left me with 1/3 - 1/2 a tin. I don't know if there is a recommended approach to appying it or in what quantity, but I viewed it like applying spray paint. This was to coat so that there was a total covering over the hood. Like spray paint, if you go light in places then it won't be as effective as if you give it a good going over.

Right or wrong? - it worked.

 

[Jane Smart]

I use fabsil too and I love it[] Helen Goff had the brilliant idea a while back, to put down the hood, put a sheet over the windows and put the hood back up again, while spraying. Saves alot of masking [8D]

 

[Mark_Bennett]

Here is a section from one of my old Boxster Register sumissions from Porsche Post back in early 2004:

Soft Top When new the Boxster top beads water very well, however after a while it can start to look like this is no longer working, the top is "wet" and it does not look so good. Never fear "" the top is comprised of several layers, including a neoprene one that ensures that you stay dry even in the worst rain conditions. However if you like the top to "bead" water in the same way it did when it was new then you can re-proof it. Several re-proofing products are available, you can look in Porsche Post or post a message on the Club Forum asking for recommendations. Once you have your product, you can start the proofing process. First wash the roof with a mild detergent (the ONLY time you should do this- use plain water at all other times, otherwise the proofing will be removed! Rinse well, then again, and again "" you want to remove ALL the detergent. Leave to dry thoroughly. Now on to the proofing itself: It is prudent to be careful not to get any of the proofing material on the paintwork of the car. I recommend buying a large, THIN, decorating polyethylene sheet (any DIY store). Cut a slit in it, then open the roof part way, and slide the sheet over the roof. You should be able to work the slit in the sheet over the front of the roof, along the roof, and under the back. Then you can close the roof again, trapping the sheet so that the windscreen, rear "boomerang" cover panel, boot, doors and windows and the bonnet are all covered. Then you only need to mask the rear window, and plastic roof trim. If you wish you might want to continue masking the lower areas of the car as well "" I just used a few sheets of newspaper stuck to the plastic sheet for this. You can then treat the roof with your preferred product. If the treatment you have selected is a brush-on variety then you may not need to be so comprehensive with the masking "" I guess this depends how messy you are! Allow the proofing to dry as per the instructions, remove your masking/shielding and you should have a roof that beads water once again.

 

[JCB..]

Seems like a lot of time and effort just to have water bead on your roof. [8D]
It all gets blown off as soon as you leave town.[]

 

[Rob Edwards]

Hi Hannu
Yes, the Fabsil Gold is the best, but not strictly necessary as the Gold is designed for hi-tech 'breathable' garments that need re-proofing, whereas the roof does not need this higher spec application. Normal fabsil will also do the job fine. There is another product called Grangers which will also do the job.
I suppose that having the best on the roof though is probably more re-assuring when it tips down. Mark is right when he says there is a lining of neoprene in the layers of the roof, so it shouldn't ever leak.
Happy spraying!
Rob[]

 

[jw2015]

Just cleaned and reproofed the roof with the AutoGlym cleaner & reproofing package. I didn't bother with much masking , draped a sheet over the back end through the cover panel, as the breeze was going to carry any overspray in that direction. But around the windows and plastics I just covered with a cloth as I went and wiped off any overspray immediately. Took a lot less time and hassle than I anticipated and has really cleaned up the top nicely. Not sure about water beading yet as, strangely enough, we've had no rain. The autoglym stuff was reasonably expensive but there's enough left for a 2nd application.

 

[Elliot Davies]

ORIGINAL: jw
The autoglym stuff was reasonably expensive but there's enough left for a 2nd application.

I had lots left as i thought the conditioner was absolutely rubbish, £20+ for the 2 pack with sponge thing i assume ?
It went in the bin and i kept the cleaner for use before the FABSIL re-proof []

 

[jw2015]

ORIGINAL: Elliot Davies

ORIGINAL: jw
The autoglym stuff was reasonably expensive but there's enough left for a 2nd application.

I had lots left as i thought the conditioner was absolutely rubbish, £20+ for the 2 pack with sponge thing i assume ?
It went in the bin and i kept the cleaner for use before the FABSIL re-proof []

I think you might be right, amazingly enough I got a dry 24 hours so the reproofing should've been well sorted, but when I accidently got the roof a bit wet while washing the rest of the car today it all started foaming slightly. Had to then rinse the foam off the roof and bodywork and I expect that's the reproofing buggered, although heavy rain beaded for a while afterwards it now just looks soaked. The cleaner worked well but I'm not sure what happened to the 2nd protection layer, maybe it's not designed to reproof in the same way as something like fabsil, it does just say conditioner and protector. The autoglym stuff is usually excellent but I think I'll have a look for fabsil. I don't like the idea of water just soaking the top layer every time.