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Waterpump Failed - update

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Waterpump, conversion Kit & new Thermostat arrived from Berlyn on Friday. Fitted over the weekend - a bit time consuming (about 10 hours total) but pretty straightforward.

Ran it up last night with no problems, although the temperature gauge now reads a little hotter than it did before - could be the new thermostat I guess.

I hate to think how much this would have cost for a dealer to replace - parts came to about 210 pounds with a little club discount from Bert - 10 hours labour would have bumped this up a tad!

Cheers,

Mike.
 
Good job Mike.

The theory goes that old thermostats weaken and open a bit early so the car runs too cool. Both of mine ran a little hotter with a new stat (and had less mayonaise in the oil filler tube over winter)
 
Going to do mine in a few weeks as it has had a slight leak from behind the timing cover for a few months. It also has a quiet tinkling noise when cold that is probably the pump bearing (causing the leak) or a belt roller.

Mike - Any tips

What did you use to tension the belt?

Mike 2
 
Mike - you have probably already looked at the procedure on www.clarks-gargage.com ?
It's really useful - it provides torque settings for the tension rollers, which my Haynes manual did not.
I would also recommend marking the position of the Balance Shaft sprockets before removal as the can go back on in 2 positions.

The belt tensioning I did by feel. Cambelt was tensioned enough to allow a 90 degree twist in the long straight run between the Cam sprocket & Crank sprocket (with the idler removed).

The balance shaft belt was tensioned to allow about 120 degree twist. 90 degrees was too tight & made it whine.

I know belt tensioning is a pretty hot topic & I'm not suggesting the above is a good procedure - but it's how I've done it :) I'll let you know if it breaks....
One last thing - if yours is an old type water pump you will need the conversion kit, & this requires some modifications to the rear timing cover, which are pretty obvious & easy to do with a Dremmel.
Cheers,
Mike.
 
Hi Mike - the new type pump has a shiney metal plate mounted on 2 posts between the tensioner & the cambelt. If that is not there it's an old style. Also the new style (& turbo) has a take off on the front of the pump that goes to the turbo (on turbo cars!) & is blanked off fo NA cars.

Bert at Berlyn services was a great help by the way. He has this stuff in stock & is slightly cheaper than the OPC - who told me there were no pumps available in the UK & it would be 10 days coming from Germany.

One other thing - do spend a good amount of time cleaning the block face where the pump mounts - I had quite a lot of gasket stuck here & spent a good hour just removing it carefully with a razor blade & then finally cleaning any old sealant with fine steel wool.

Cheers,

Mike.
 
mcress, How are the pump and belts?

Did you lock the flywheel?

What other bits, other than the guard do you need for the new type pump?

Did you use any gasket cement?

Mike
 
Mike - sorry for the late reply - just picked up your questions..

So far the belts & pump have been OK (500 miles)

Luckily I did not need to lock the flywheel - a sharp tap on the socket with a hammer had it loose.....

I did use some Golden Hermetite on the gasket.

Did you do yours yet?
 
I was going to do it this week but the pump won't be here for another week!

I have also ordered belts and pulleys.

Where did you get the info. for the mod on the rear cover?

Mike
 
Bert at Berlyn told me that it was necessary to mod the rear cover - the only way I did this was to fit the pump & then offer the cover up to it & then carefully grind the cover with a Dremmel where it fouled around the new (Bigger) idler roller. It is pretty straight forward & obvious once the pump is on....

Good luck & if I can help any further let me know....
 
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