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What a difference

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the new rear tyres make. Wow, ride seems to be much better, and allot less noise too. I got Toyo Proxes put on, they look the business.

Will be starting the Boost and A/F instally tomorrow. Any tips will be more than welcome.
Will also be fitting the chips as the last stage, the 3.0bar FPR is in and the shims are done the Accuboost is on... Nearly all systems go!!

All i need tp find is the ABS pump and the gearbox oil cooler!

Cheers guys [:D]
 
Hi Slim,

I wouldn't drive the car too much with the increased FPR without the chips in - I did the same [;)] - The car will overfuel and you could end up washing out your bores.

The chip exchange isn't too onerous once you get the hang of it - I ended up doing it three times, so I'm getting quite good.

Keep poking the hinge or other exposed metal on the car to ensure you remain earthed - watch that static!

If you rotate the boxes as you take them out they see to produce more room. Disconnect the boxes to fit the chips. Whilst it looks possible to do it in situ it is far to much of a fag.

Mind you don't stab yourself in the hand with the screwdriver when pulling the tabs back.

Don't bother fussing about making a tool to adjust the fuel quality switch. It will be set on 0 and doesn't make it any better if you change it anyway - well not in my experience.
 
Thanks John, I would hope that the ECU would adjust he amount of fuel going in but maybe not!! I am starting tomorrow with te chips and the gauges, the seats are coming out too(liquide leather) so i wont be driving it anyway.

Fitting the chips looks straighforward, i am just abit aprehensive about the A/F and boost gauge. The boost line that comes into the KLR is it silicone tube or hard nylon? As i have the Lindsey Racing vacuum kit and will be splicing into the hose at the KLR. I went for the black one, the bule was just too much for me. Will be replacing all the hoses over the next couple of weeks.

Thanks for the advice... [:)]
 
The boost line that comes into the KLR is it silicone tube or hard nylon?
Click to expand...

It is a hardish nylon - still flexible but not compressible. It is a fine(ish) guage so I'm note sure if it will be wide enough for the purasil tube to get a grip around the outside of it. That said, you might be able to swage it with a hot air gun if it is too thin.

There was a thread on Renlist recently about splicing into the DME loom to get a feed for the A/F guage. As mine is an earlier model, without the Lambda sensor, I didn't take too much notice.
 
Does the guru kit still use the hard line? just wondering as the overboost protection is gone. If not then I assume you can just connect here without a 'T'.

I connected in the engine bay anyway as I am planning to connect the AFM there too with a thin lead into the plug (once I have worked out which pin) - that way I do not have to mess about with the DME wiring loom.

Tony
 
I think that hard line into the KLR also powers the boost gauge in the dash i.e the KLR sends an electronic signal to the dash gauge.
 
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I'm in the same position as you were rob. Car is really great but needs a heavy right foot to make it go! I'll give the throttle cam a go I think. Cheers
 
Throttle cam has arrived. All excited now!!!! Going to knock off work earlier today to get it fitted.

I must say that Porsche Shop service was excellent - they responded to my email enquiry quickly and delivery was overnight - fantastic! Well done chaps.
 
In case any of the other very exclusive[:D] automatic owners consider this...this part won`t fit your car (tried it)(some say it`s because autos are just sooo fast already!)
 
Like Grahame said, it's for the LUX only as far as I know.

Keith - try a supercharger, or just going down hill - [:D] [:D] [:D] - or even drilling holes in it to add lightness [:D] [:D] [:D] [:D]. Only joking, as you know.

I've also had excellent service from Porsche Shop. Have you seen their front brake upgrades for non-turbo 944's ? I'd try one on buby WUF if I didn't already have the Turbo/250 setup fitted.

Rick
 
Fitted the Throttle Cam. Very easy to do - took seconds. Power much more accessible. A much nicer drive now. Well worth it.
 
So does the cam just take up any slack in the throttle cable to provide a smoother response or is there more to it than that?
The bare cable on my s2 can be easily moved a good 3/4 of an inch either side where it connects up to the TPS - i've been told this is normal but surely a tight cable would provide a smooth pick-up when you put your foot on the pedal?
 
As I understand it the throttle response cam is just that; a throttle cable pulley shaped such that x length of cable pulled makes more deflection at one end of the throttle butterfly travel than the other. The S2 and Turbo have a linear throttle cable pulley as I guess the Lux does also as standard, but the cam-type alternative physically doesn't fit those models.
 
The standard lux throttle cam is not linear, the cam mod produces a linear 1:1 ratio between peddle position & throttle opening that is why cars with the cam modification feel more drivable.
The Turbo & S2 already have a linear relationship as you say Fen.
 
Photo with standard cam http://www.danaca.nl/porsche944/images/engine01.jpg

Engine with cam mod.
3622_large.jpg
 
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