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Wheel Nuts

jeegnesh

New member
Just had 4 new Pilot Sports but on, and during the change over the mechanic showed me the wheel nuts and said you really have to change them, as they were corroding (white on the edges) and some even looked like they were being eaten away.

I have 1998 2.5 but the wheels were changed to Turbo II copies, 18 inch, should the wheel nuts be different lenght then the standard?

Also any ideas of where to buy from?
 
They look kinda weird, maybe I am looking at the wrong ones:

http://partsforporsche.co.uk/osc/headlight-wash-p-1281.html?osCsid=231b97cb52f303ff67649842470646de
 
Saw these on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=150313700705&Category=14771&_trksid=p3907.m29&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D1 wondering if they will fit, will measure mine tomorrow, is there anything else to look out for?
 
The original porsche wheel bolts are lighterweight than any aftermarket chromed parts. Without any form of certification (such as German TUV) i wouldn't touch those chrome bolts with a barge pool. You have no idea what load they can withstand and what torque setting they require. The Porsche wheel bolts do corrode; unless they are pitted then all you have to do is remove one a at time, a light rub with emery paper and a coat of silver aerosol paint.

There are chrome covers you can buy on ebay too - not to everyone's taste but do improve the look of very rusty bolts.
 
Thats about the same price as OPC.

So good news I had my Geo done yesterday and we checked the bolts and they told me they have seen far worse and they still had like 5 years wear in them. So I think I will hold tight in the credit crunch :)

Thanks for the help.
 
I always remove my wheel nuts each spring time (after the bad weather) and simply rub them with emery paper (as stated above) and coat them with high temperature silver aerosol paint I got from Halfords.
Takes about 30 mins a wheel and they look like new again, all for a fiver !

Tip: The other important thing to note when replacing an aluminium wheel on a steel hub, is to always "coat" both surfaces with joining compound to stop a electrochemical reaction between aluminium and steel.
I coat the wheel hub itself and the inside of the wheel, and also smear a tiny amount on the head of the steel wheel bolt where is mates with the wheel (never put any on the bolts thread).
The stuff I use is primary designed to be used on airplane structures to join different metal parts where drilling and riveting.

The main reason I use the Joining compound is to easily get off the wheel after a long winter, or if you get a puncture it's an very disturbing thing if you can't get the wheel off in the pouring rain in the dark!
 

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