wheels off.....

[Craigybaby]

Before I explain why I'd like to know.....if I have been to 3 different garages, in the following chronological order, which one is likely to have been the last to take my wheels off?
Garage 1 service and mot
garage 2 new centre section exhaust
garage 3 new belts and water pump and alternator bracket

cheers

 

[chrisg]

Depending on the 'service' (ie brake disc or pad change or even inspection) IMHO the only garage that should have needed to remove the wheels is garage 1 - the other two shouldnt have needed to remove any of the wheels to complete the jobs listed.

C

 

[PSH]

I concur

 

[Craigybaby]

Well im feeling a complete numpty tonight, while checking my air pressures noticed I've got a mixture of 7 & 8s on each axle (d90s)...& to top it off I can't find my locking wheel nut remover thingy....bu66er

 

[Craigybaby]

Omg....literally 5 mins after last post, locking up, there's my locking wheel nut thingy sitting on a shelf in the kitchen....after I spent an hour turning the garage upside down! So it's an early start to hopefully swap my wheels, it's the 7s on the front, right? Knowing my recent luck I'll probably put the jack straight through a rotten jacking point!

 

[bmnelsc]

While you are doing that, examine your lug nut threads. If they used an impact wrench to put them back on you might find a stripped nut or two (some of the thread unwinding from the inside of the nut like a piece of fine wire) which shows itself when you undo them. If they can mix up front/rear wheels then I'd be a little suspect on what tools they use... Remember, D90s are tightened to 90 lb/ft which requires a torque wrench - not an air gun held on till the nuts don't turn...

 

[zcacogp]

Remember, D90s are tightened to 90 lb/ft

Manual says 130. Which always seems too tight to me so I head for 110.

Quite agree about the torque wrench comment.

 

[PSH]

I think that you'll find that's Newton meters Oli.....IIRC that's what it is on the turbo...

 

[Craigybaby]

Thanks gents, never knew about the torquing thing , I'll have to buy a wrench off of amazon....£19 for god cheapest....

 

[zcacogp]

I think that you'll find that's Newton meters Oli.....IIRC that's what it is on the turbo...

Yeah, NM. Like FtLb but all metric and that. I knew the difference. I don't get confused between units. Not at all. I mean, when I see 240KPH on the speedometer of my S2 I know I am doing 240MPH. 'Cos I mean like that's not at all confusing and I'm clever. And a mighty S2 will do 240MPH, unlike a measly Turbo which will only just about stretch to 150MPH, which is really slow!

[X(]

Craig, I found that without a torque wrench I struggled to do the wheel nuts up evenly (and wheel nuts was what I bought the torque wrench for initially). However it's ALWAYS worth spending a little more than the bare minimum on tools. Particularly ones that are used for measuring. There's a Teng one here which will probably be worth the £55 they are asking for it;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Teng-1292AGEP-40-210nm-2-inch-Torque/dp/B000Y8N07S/ref=sr_1_18?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1502648437&sr=1-18&keywords=torque+wrench


Oli.

 

[bmnelsc]

About torque wrenches...supposedly you are able to tighten the nuts to the "appropriate" torque with the wheel wrench provided with the car although there is no indication of how it is used to achieve that - e.g. two hands on the wrench - stand on the wrench - etc. all depending on how strong and/or large the user is So I vote for a torque wrench also but once torqued, it is useful to try the supplied wheel wrench to see what effort is required with properly tightened wheels. Most folks don't carry their torque wrench around so the factory wrench is used in roadside or emergency situations. Having said that - I don't remember the last time I tried it out with mine :-(

 

[Craigybaby]

So......I managed to switch my wheels round(had to deflate them to get them back on, & it was the offsides that needed switching) set off for a longish journey and ten minutes in I pulled up to traffic lights and noticed a very small amount of smoke escaping through the bonnet near to where the offside front wheel is....with 70 miles still to do naturally I carried on! 70 miles later I arrived with no further drama. Couldn't see any wheel issues, lifted the bonnet and eventually noticed a connector unconnected and also looking a little frazzled. Had no idea what it was but reconnected it and started researChing it....turns out it's the "Hall sensor". never heard of it before, but if its been disconnected for a long time it could explain why I thought the car hadn't been running as well as i thought it should and I'm wondering if now it's reconnected it might hopefully get rid of a weird scraping noise I sometimes get on start up. The protective plastic is a bit damaged but the wires and connection seem ok. From what I've read it seems weird this wasn't picked up (the disconnection) when I had my belts/water pump changed in march....any thoughts on any of this please?

 

[zcacogp]

Craig,

What model of 944 do you have?

Hall sender disconnected will explain poor running for sure - indeed I am surprised it ran at all without it, although my knowledge of 944 electronics isn't great.


Oli.

 

[Waylander]

The hall sensor tells the ECU what position the camshafts are in

with it not connected / working the ECU defaults to firing all the injectors at the same time instead of in sequence, loss of fuel efficiency, it also retards the ignition timing for engine safety

should get it checked fixed as and when, the genuine porsche ones are about £160

but if it's just the plugs they can be bought from brandshatch performance for about £5 each for the plug and socket and replaced

look for three pin junior timer plugs

 

[Craigybaby]

Thanks gents...it's a 91 s2

 

[Craigybaby]

When I say poor running, it's more like a loss of power.
for a while now the car has felt slightly sluggish up to about 3000rpm, but then kicks in, feeling almost like a turbo engine.....& it seemed to coincide with when i got new cats last year so was putting it down to that...I've also had a rattle from the rear end, at high speed, for the same amount of time which I thought was exhaust related but last week I discovered the lower part of my bridge spoiler was loose and now ive temporarily fixed that the rattle seems improved.....so many minor things recently, but credit to the car it's still never let me down in 5 years

 

[IanK]

Hi Waylander,

but if it's just the plugs they can be bought from brandshatch performance for about £5 each for the plug and socket and replaced

I may need to replace the plug on the wiring loom that the Hall sensor connects to - do you know exactly which plug this is please?

Regards

Ian

 

[Craigybaby]

Just been for a spirited lunchtime drive......feels like I've gained 30-40bhp! So tip for all other incompetents like myself, check your hall sensor is connected!

 

[Waylander]

Hi Waylander,

but if it's just the plugs they can be bought from brandshatch performance for about £5 each for the plug and socket and replaced

I may need to replace the plug on the wiring loom that the Hall sensor connects to - do you know exactly which plug this is please?

Regards

Ian

Its called a junior timer plug, three pin for the hall sensor
like this it's a plug and socket

https://m.aliexpress.com/...che.0.0.4b461d03uG0qlt