Which clutch alignment tool do I need?

[944psi]

I seem to have ordered nearly all of the bits I need for putting my S2 back together with a shiny new clutch.

One of the things I haven't picked up yet is a clutch alignment tool.

There is a 'universal' kit at machine mart http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040211426 - would this be suitable or do I need one of these http://www.clutchtools.com/prodinfo.htm?sku=3064&cart=116542195774971

Any pointers to a suitable tool much appreciated.

Phil

 

[Indi9xx]

On the 944 you do not need a clutch alignment tool.

Line it up by eye, just very roughly, bolt up the clutch cover... fit the bell housing, pin the fork, fit the slave cylinder, wedge the clutch peddle down, and then locate the nose of the torque tube first into the clutch plate, and then wiggle it about to get it into the spigot bearing, bolt up the torque tube, release clutch... and thats it.

 

[944psi]

Thanks for that, I would have needlessly been buying such a device.[]

Sounds like the sort of job where some additional limbs might help though. I'll have to work on that one.

Phil

 

[Indi9xx]

Ideally, you just need someone to push the clutch peddle down while you use the torque tube as a big clutch aligning tool (with the bell housing mounted to the engine)

Using the clutch slave, you are effectively releasing the clutch friction plate from being clamped by the clutch cover.

I also recommend you set up your flywheel reference sensor before you mount the bell housing... On an S2 you can do this because the bell housing has a cut out where as the standard Lux bell housing does not, it has just a window, so the sensor needs mounting after the bell housing is on. You want a 0.9mm to 1.0mm air gap between the sensor and the teeth on the flywheel.

In the workshop we have a special Porsche factory jig which does the same job of releasing the clutch while we mount the torque tube.. half the time we forget we have it, or for other reasons instead we use a Porsche dealer telescopic ram which goes between the peddle and the seat runners to engage the slave cylinder in cases when we want to do it that way.

 

[944psi]

Interesting about the factory jig. I can imagine making something like that out of my old slave cylinder!

Little progress today because I don't have all of the parts yet. I (needlessly) broke the reference sensor whilst dismantling, so apart from that, I am replacing all of the usual things including the slave cylinder, flywheel, rear seal, pilot bearing, release arm bearings, guide tube & master cylinder.

Should I be doing anything else?

In particular I am considering replacing the release arm pivot shaft - I'm guessing it shouldn't have those indents from the bearings in it.

The release arm ends look OK - It is supposed to have that shape to it isn't it?

As for the rear seal - I'm not sure that this is the leaking - looks quite dry to me. Any ideas?

Getting the flywheel off took a bit of time until I realised there was 'volume knob' on the air impact wrench I was using....[]

Phil

 

[Indi9xx]

Change that clutch fork pivot pin, it will cause the clutch opperation to feel really notchy due to the grooves worn into it.

Change the rear main seal, as it does not cost a lot, its easy to do and its a Bas£#r% to do later.

The clutch fork looks ok... look out for cracks in the legs of the fork... the tips do not look too bad.

Replace the pivot pin bearing races (2)

Change the spigot bearing in the crank

Change the guide tube in the bell housing (the tube the clutch release bearing slides along)

Did you say your changing your flywheel????

 

[944psi]

ORIGINAL: Indi9xx

Change that clutch fork pivot pin, it will cause the clutch opperation to feel really notchy due to the grooves worn into it.

Change the rear main seal, as it does not cost a lot, its easy to do and its a Bas£#r% to do later.

The clutch fork looks ok... look out for cracks in the legs of the fork... the tips do not look too bad.

Replace the pivot pin bearing races (2)

Change the spigot bearing in the crank

Change the guide tube in the bell housing (the tube the clutch release bearing slides along)

Did you say your changing your flywheel????

Sounds like I've got everything covered then apart from the pivot pin - added to the list now.

Flywheel - erm, yes. [:-] I picked up a new one from ebay. I had worked myself into a state of paranoia thinking about the flywheel and whether it would be ok, should it be resurfaced, were there any hardspots etc that I thought 'sod it' and bagged one.

Is this the point where you say the picture looks normal or fine? If it is, please don't tell Mrs Phil [8|]

One query though. Although the old and new flywheels have the same part no. there are two grub screws near the OT mark on the edge of the flywheel - do you know what are they for?

Phil

Yes

 

[Indi9xx]

Grub screws... Sounds like you bagged yourself a 944 Lux or turbo flywheel.... The grub screws are for the tdc sensor. The lux has two sensors, one to read the teeth on the flywheel, the other reads those grub screws... The S2 uses a cam shaft sensor instead of a TDC sensor.

I have never tried, but I am unsure if the lux flywheel will work in your application.

 

[944psi]

I knew it was too good to be true.

Apart from the grub screws they are identical and the part number (I'm going to double-check now) is the same. Suppose I could take the grub screws out / grind them off.

Thanks, Phil

 

[Indi9xx]

They will do no damage, if the part number for the flywheel is otherwise the same, it will be ok... just compare them as much as you can... but make sure that apart from the screws, they are the same...