Wing Mirror Loose
- Thread starter Andy 944
- Start date
vitesse
Active member
The Allen screw holds the entire mirror to the door-if the entire mirror is loose,tightening it will clamp it tighter to the door skin.
If you mean the swivelling top section ,then it becomes more complicated because you have to remove the entire mirror by removing the Allen screw-but 1st you need to remove the mirror glass very carefully-then unplug the circular electrical connector in the housing-then you need the special pin connector removal tool to remove the female part which allows you to take the wires out of the stem.
Then it is possible to tighten the hollow connecting tube using a splined socket bit-how do I know-well I've just done it on my wife's 924S-but I did it without the pin tool.
If you mean the swivelling top section ,then it becomes more complicated because you have to remove the entire mirror by removing the Allen screw-but 1st you need to remove the mirror glass very carefully-then unplug the circular electrical connector in the housing-then you need the special pin connector removal tool to remove the female part which allows you to take the wires out of the stem.
Then it is possible to tighten the hollow connecting tube using a splined socket bit-how do I know-well I've just done it on my wife's 924S-but I did it without the pin tool.
vitesse
Active member
Andy-best of luck with this p***y little job.In my case someone had swiped her nearside door mirror to the extent that the swivel section had been pulled off the swivel tube leaving it only held on by the wires through the hollow stem.
I tried to borrow one of the pin removal tools at a friends Autoelectrics firm & some new connectors but despite them going many years & having obscure spare Lucas parts from years ago,they didn't have one & couldn't advise me where to get them.[&o]So I tapped out the female socket connectors incrementally using a small hammer & the most appropriate punch I could find which turned out to be one of those small Allen keys with a little finger hold on the end that you get in a set of jewellery screwdrivers--best to use slightly larger so that it is tight in the plastic fitting & doesn't enter the very thin & fragile female socket.These connectors have like fishook projections which try to prevent them being removed--I damaged 3 I think but managed to straighten them out sufficient for them to subsequently go back into the plastic connector & make a suitable contact with the male pins in the half connector still attached to the mirror mechanism .
NB-Make sure you carefully note the wire colours on each side of the 2 half white plastic connector plugs & where each pin socket goes.There is a write up on Clarkes Garage about this als
n ours someone had in the past got them mixed up -no wonder my darling wife could never get to properly adjust the LHS mirror compared to her door mirror--that had me rather perplexed for some time -in fact I had to retire for another cup of tea to puzzle it out.
If your mirror is just loose & hasn't detached ,DO NOT loosen the hollow swivel if & when you have got the wires disconnected as it is a pig to compress the strong compression spring,hold the mirror base,& rotate the hollow stem simultaneously as separate parts.
Even tightening the swivel tube up a little will be difficult because of the problem of holding the mirror head without damage whilst you use a ratchet with spline socket
bit.
In my case,it was detached so I removed the 3 screws which hold the mirror head to the swivel section into which the hollow connector is threaded-then made a jigplate of sorts from 2" wide aluminium flat bar,drilled 3 clearance holes at 1 end to match the swivel section tapped holes & fastened the swivel to the plate using the same 3 screws.
I then clamped the flat bar in a metal vice close to the swivel with its open (ie door mounting face uppermost) used a medium socket extension with the splined bit into the preassembled tube,spring,washers & put 2 suitable ring spanners at 180 degs on the extension so that they bore onto the top of the coned spherical end of the hollow mounting tube.
Then my son,Nick (previous 994 Turbo,now 996 owner) pressed down with all his strength on the 2 spanners whilst I tightened the hollow tube using a ratchet on the socket extension-checking frequently that the mirror & stem were tight enough but not too tight to allow "Knockback"-the interface between the 2 items has 3 detent ridges on each component-out of phase to hold the mirror in the 3 normally used positions ie, fully forward towards the A pillar,sticking out as when driving & fully back
if knocked by a passing car or folded into the window glass when parked.
Because the stem had been pulled out of the swivel mount in our case ,the fine threads in the diecast mirror part were slightly damaged near their start point & as an added safeguard,I used an anaerobic metal adhesive of the type used to assemble those Stainless Steel handrails you see everywhere-better than threadlock but still demountable in practice.
Best of luck-sorry for the long winded script -mob no 07740 278350 if you.want to discuss
I tried to borrow one of the pin removal tools at a friends Autoelectrics firm & some new connectors but despite them going many years & having obscure spare Lucas parts from years ago,they didn't have one & couldn't advise me where to get them.[&o]So I tapped out the female socket connectors incrementally using a small hammer & the most appropriate punch I could find which turned out to be one of those small Allen keys with a little finger hold on the end that you get in a set of jewellery screwdrivers--best to use slightly larger so that it is tight in the plastic fitting & doesn't enter the very thin & fragile female socket.These connectors have like fishook projections which try to prevent them being removed--I damaged 3 I think but managed to straighten them out sufficient for them to subsequently go back into the plastic connector & make a suitable contact with the male pins in the half connector still attached to the mirror mechanism .
NB-Make sure you carefully note the wire colours on each side of the 2 half white plastic connector plugs & where each pin socket goes.There is a write up on Clarkes Garage about this als
n ours someone had in the past got them mixed up -no wonder my darling wife could never get to properly adjust the LHS mirror compared to her door mirror--that had me rather perplexed for some time -in fact I had to retire for another cup of tea to puzzle it out.If your mirror is just loose & hasn't detached ,DO NOT loosen the hollow swivel if & when you have got the wires disconnected as it is a pig to compress the strong compression spring,hold the mirror base,& rotate the hollow stem simultaneously as separate parts.
Even tightening the swivel tube up a little will be difficult because of the problem of holding the mirror head without damage whilst you use a ratchet with spline socket
bit.
In my case,it was detached so I removed the 3 screws which hold the mirror head to the swivel section into which the hollow connector is threaded-then made a jigplate of sorts from 2" wide aluminium flat bar,drilled 3 clearance holes at 1 end to match the swivel section tapped holes & fastened the swivel to the plate using the same 3 screws.
I then clamped the flat bar in a metal vice close to the swivel with its open (ie door mounting face uppermost) used a medium socket extension with the splined bit into the preassembled tube,spring,washers & put 2 suitable ring spanners at 180 degs on the extension so that they bore onto the top of the coned spherical end of the hollow mounting tube.
Then my son,Nick (previous 994 Turbo,now 996 owner) pressed down with all his strength on the 2 spanners whilst I tightened the hollow tube using a ratchet on the socket extension-checking frequently that the mirror & stem were tight enough but not too tight to allow "Knockback"-the interface between the 2 items has 3 detent ridges on each component-out of phase to hold the mirror in the 3 normally used positions ie, fully forward towards the A pillar,sticking out as when driving & fully back
if knocked by a passing car or folded into the window glass when parked.
Because the stem had been pulled out of the swivel mount in our case ,the fine threads in the diecast mirror part were slightly damaged near their start point & as an added safeguard,I used an anaerobic metal adhesive of the type used to assemble those Stainless Steel handrails you see everywhere-better than threadlock but still demountable in practice.
Best of luck-sorry for the long winded script -mob no 07740 278350 if you.want to discuss
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