Chaps,
Clutch done. Observations:
- I didn't write a 'How-To' guide because there are a number already out there. If you are doing this job then do a Google, then print out and read everything you find. Another guide from me would just add to the noise. Also, my fingers were far too dirty to operate a digi camera while doing the job, so no photos either.
- I have FULL records of history for my car, and no note of the clutch being changed in 147k miles. Having taken the old one off it didn't look that worn (clutch plate was around 1mm thinner than the new clutch plate, but was getting close to the rivets), and the rubber centre was still intact. BUT it was well worth changing - the new clutch is much smoother, the bite point is lower, and it will fairly easily break traction where it wouldn't before, suggesting that the old clutch was slipping slightly. The gearshift is crisper and it's easier to heel-and-toe downshifts as the clutch is more precise. (I'm amazed at how much more 'chuckable' this has made the car feel.)
- 3 guys for a day and a half, plus another for an afternoon, job done.
- Getting the gearbox off the mount is a miserable job. Getting it back on was worse. It may be easier to drop the whole rear cross-beam (one bolt at each end) and lower the whole assembly, but we didn't try this.
- You NEED to remove the clutch release arm pivot to free the clutch release arm from the clutch release bearing. Without doing this the bellhousing won't come off. When replacing it, you need to put the release arm in the bellhousing (loose), line the bellhousing up, jiggle release arm into place and then drive the pivot into place, ensuring that the release arm is engaged on the back of the release bearing, then bolt up the bellhousing. (Trust me, that was a heck of a lot easier to type than it was to do!) This is the fiddliest part of the job; many thanks to James_G on here for turning up to help for the critical section!
- You need to remove the crank position sensor and it's mounting from the bellhousing to get the bellhousing off. We didn't cut the infamous C-shape in the bellhousing, just put the sensor back in. We didn't measure it - we actually put the sensor as far away from the flywheel as possible to avoid damage, and it fired up fine.
- The driveshaft moves along inside the torque tube quite readily. This makes getting the gearbox back on difficult as it appears there is an overlap between the torque tube and the gearbox input shaft. However, you can easily knock the driveshaft back down the torque tube towards the engine with a plastic mallet. (This is much easier if someone pushes the clutch pedal down while you are doing it.)
- You don't need to break the clutch hydraulic circuit to change the clutch. This avoids the hassle of bleeding it.
- If you swap the driveshafts from one side to the other you will wear on the 'back' of the CV joint drive faces, extending their life. (Trust me, the only way to do this is to swap the driveshafts from one side to the other. If you doubt me then work it out for yourself with a pencil and piece of paper.)
- We didn't replace anything other than the 3 clutch pieces (pressure cover, plate and bearing) but did clean and lubricate everything, particularly on the gear linkage. This has resulted in a much much lighter shift, much nicer to use, but no more precise.
- The gearshift gaiters (both of them) come off with a firm tug, but putting them back on involves dismantling the centre console. If you leave them un-attached (looking like a puffball skirt) until you get the chance to dismantle the centre console then you get a LOT of noise in the cabin ... and it's almost sinfully good! It's a delicious mix of exhaust valve ticking, exhaust roar, road noise and gearbox whine. Something between full-on NASCAR (under throttle), an old Ferguson tractor and an RB211 jet. All you boys who are discussing new speakers - just take them all out and pull your gearstick gaiters off! (Downside is that Mrs zcacogp doesn't like it, so I will be putting it all back as it should be very soon. [:-] )
I bought my parts from Max Schenker at frazerpart (www.frazerpart.com) who were - as usual - very keenly priced and offered excellent service. They did however supply me with the wrong Rear Main Seal, so this wasn't changed. I also bought a new spigot bearing, but the old one was fine (not rough or noisy) and didn't want to come out in a hurry, so we didn't change it. (I'll add that I have discussed the aforementioned RMS with Max and he has been very helpful, and agreed to a full refund on the seal and the unused bearing - service with FP is good.)
Oli.
Clutch done. Observations:
- I didn't write a 'How-To' guide because there are a number already out there. If you are doing this job then do a Google, then print out and read everything you find. Another guide from me would just add to the noise. Also, my fingers were far too dirty to operate a digi camera while doing the job, so no photos either.
- I have FULL records of history for my car, and no note of the clutch being changed in 147k miles. Having taken the old one off it didn't look that worn (clutch plate was around 1mm thinner than the new clutch plate, but was getting close to the rivets), and the rubber centre was still intact. BUT it was well worth changing - the new clutch is much smoother, the bite point is lower, and it will fairly easily break traction where it wouldn't before, suggesting that the old clutch was slipping slightly. The gearshift is crisper and it's easier to heel-and-toe downshifts as the clutch is more precise. (I'm amazed at how much more 'chuckable' this has made the car feel.)
- 3 guys for a day and a half, plus another for an afternoon, job done.
- Getting the gearbox off the mount is a miserable job. Getting it back on was worse. It may be easier to drop the whole rear cross-beam (one bolt at each end) and lower the whole assembly, but we didn't try this.
- You NEED to remove the clutch release arm pivot to free the clutch release arm from the clutch release bearing. Without doing this the bellhousing won't come off. When replacing it, you need to put the release arm in the bellhousing (loose), line the bellhousing up, jiggle release arm into place and then drive the pivot into place, ensuring that the release arm is engaged on the back of the release bearing, then bolt up the bellhousing. (Trust me, that was a heck of a lot easier to type than it was to do!) This is the fiddliest part of the job; many thanks to James_G on here for turning up to help for the critical section!
- You need to remove the crank position sensor and it's mounting from the bellhousing to get the bellhousing off. We didn't cut the infamous C-shape in the bellhousing, just put the sensor back in. We didn't measure it - we actually put the sensor as far away from the flywheel as possible to avoid damage, and it fired up fine.
- The driveshaft moves along inside the torque tube quite readily. This makes getting the gearbox back on difficult as it appears there is an overlap between the torque tube and the gearbox input shaft. However, you can easily knock the driveshaft back down the torque tube towards the engine with a plastic mallet. (This is much easier if someone pushes the clutch pedal down while you are doing it.)
- You don't need to break the clutch hydraulic circuit to change the clutch. This avoids the hassle of bleeding it.
- If you swap the driveshafts from one side to the other you will wear on the 'back' of the CV joint drive faces, extending their life. (Trust me, the only way to do this is to swap the driveshafts from one side to the other. If you doubt me then work it out for yourself with a pencil and piece of paper.)
- We didn't replace anything other than the 3 clutch pieces (pressure cover, plate and bearing) but did clean and lubricate everything, particularly on the gear linkage. This has resulted in a much much lighter shift, much nicer to use, but no more precise.
- The gearshift gaiters (both of them) come off with a firm tug, but putting them back on involves dismantling the centre console. If you leave them un-attached (looking like a puffball skirt) until you get the chance to dismantle the centre console then you get a LOT of noise in the cabin ... and it's almost sinfully good! It's a delicious mix of exhaust valve ticking, exhaust roar, road noise and gearbox whine. Something between full-on NASCAR (under throttle), an old Ferguson tractor and an RB211 jet. All you boys who are discussing new speakers - just take them all out and pull your gearstick gaiters off! (Downside is that Mrs zcacogp doesn't like it, so I will be putting it all back as it should be very soon. [:-] )
I bought my parts from Max Schenker at frazerpart (www.frazerpart.com) who were - as usual - very keenly priced and offered excellent service. They did however supply me with the wrong Rear Main Seal, so this wasn't changed. I also bought a new spigot bearing, but the old one was fine (not rough or noisy) and didn't want to come out in a hurry, so we didn't change it. (I'll add that I have discussed the aforementioned RMS with Max and he has been very helpful, and agreed to a full refund on the seal and the unused bearing - service with FP is good.)
Oli.
]
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