Hi, I need to replace the battery on my car. I have read that to avoid losing all info etc it is the practice at main dealer to connect a power supply to the vehicle prior to removing the old battery to keep everything alive and the alarm not going off - or the tracker. Is this something anyone has done? If so what's the best way, using another battery and jump leads or could it be done with a battery charger connected? Any thoughts gratefully received
996 Turbo 2004 battery change
- Thread starter richardh
- Start date
kasspa
Member
I have a 2004 4S, I was told to switch on ignition, (I left warning lights on) although I think you should return key to aux position, then when you disconnect battery secondary alarm doesn't go off & neither does alarm when reconnecting.....
All worked fine after as far as I can remember.
Be aware, my battery terminal bolts did not unscrew completely so when I connected eyelet connector for my battery conditioner I snipped the connectors to manipulate around the bolts which then compressed on tightening to battery terminals....
hth
Paul
All worked fine after as far as I can remember.
Be aware, my battery terminal bolts did not unscrew completely so when I connected eyelet connector for my battery conditioner I snipped the connectors to manipulate around the bolts which then compressed on tightening to battery terminals....
hth
Paul
I also replaced mine for peace of mind around 2 years ago or so. First click on the key is definitely the main thing as that alarm siren under there will still have more than enough power to hurt the ears!
I always have to enter my radio code as it is set to be required for every power on anyway... other than that there was nothing I was personally aware of being an issue. Saying that mine is an earlier (year 2000) C2 and I know the DME was updated on the later cars.
You may may notice the car learning the new fuel settings due to the DME relearn process but only takes around 30 secs I think (revs may be slightly erratic whilst it tries different settings).
The other thing is I think you need to put the windows down and back up again for it to re-learn the extremities (which is used for dropping the window on door opening).
Something i found useful was the proper digital battery tester to ensure the actual health of the battery. A lot have a surface charge once unplugged from the charger and its hard to tell how healthy it really is.
In my case I believe the battery wasn't great but was not the root cause after all because I later found i was unhappy with the amount of days it would hold charge, which turned out to be an alternator regulator. It was noticeable by letting the car get hot in the engine bay and see if you get a corresponding drop of charge on the battery instrument panel (once verifying it is reading accurately against a tester). Mine was dropping below 12v the hotter it got (e.g traffic) and that puts the battery under a lot of strain as the voltage regulator cannot keep it topped up.
One to be aware of, good luck.
Thanks
James
I always have to enter my radio code as it is set to be required for every power on anyway... other than that there was nothing I was personally aware of being an issue. Saying that mine is an earlier (year 2000) C2 and I know the DME was updated on the later cars.
You may may notice the car learning the new fuel settings due to the DME relearn process but only takes around 30 secs I think (revs may be slightly erratic whilst it tries different settings).
The other thing is I think you need to put the windows down and back up again for it to re-learn the extremities (which is used for dropping the window on door opening).
Something i found useful was the proper digital battery tester to ensure the actual health of the battery. A lot have a surface charge once unplugged from the charger and its hard to tell how healthy it really is.
In my case I believe the battery wasn't great but was not the root cause after all because I later found i was unhappy with the amount of days it would hold charge, which turned out to be an alternator regulator. It was noticeable by letting the car get hot in the engine bay and see if you get a corresponding drop of charge on the battery instrument panel (once verifying it is reading accurately against a tester). Mine was dropping below 12v the hotter it got (e.g traffic) and that puts the battery under a lot of strain as the voltage regulator cannot keep it topped up.
One to be aware of, good luck.
Thanks
James
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
