1976 924
- Thread starter vitesse
- Start date
vitesse
Active member
Just had a 2 week break with Mike in Cyprus again before which we tidied up some engine bay wiring around the coil/ballast resistors including correctly routing some harness parts into their various clips-this meant removing the distributor for better access-& then refitted approximately as my Hella strobe light wouldn't work ( that & my gas tester have not worked correctly since lending them a few years ago).
Today ,having stripped it, discovered the strobe lamp wasn't in the correct position ( must have been dropped[
]) sorted that & used it today to set timing as best as I could -had to reset idle speed (lower) & then test drive-all went well.
Next time ,need to clean & highlight timing marks to recheck the timing-they were not very distinct-but otherwise engine is running better all the time.
Today ,having stripped it, discovered the strobe lamp wasn't in the correct position ( must have been dropped[
]) sorted that & used it today to set timing as best as I could -had to reset idle speed (lower) & then test drive-all went well.Next time ,need to clean & highlight timing marks to recheck the timing-they were not very distinct-but otherwise engine is running better all the time.
vitesse
Active member
After having spent sometime cleaning flywheel area around TDC marks yesterday using long screwdriver with solvent soaked cloth taped to the end & then identifying the appropriate marks,I was able to set the timing accurately at 10 deg BTDC (with vacuum disconnected) -this needed large adjustment to idle speed bi-pass screw as previously the engine was clearly retarded.
Engine gets better every time so next week will re-tune the mixture setting using my good friend's Hawk gas analyser-I refer to the one & only Albert Wash -many thanks ,Albert.
Also did a little bit of bodywork re-alignement-by removing o/s front wing top bolts- we treated the exposed flange with Kurust then "Gold " Hammerite(all that Mike had available) leaving hopeful better alignememnt 'til next week to allow it to dry.We will be using Plumber's Mait by Evode to seal the flange.
Engine gets better every time so next week will re-tune the mixture setting using my good friend's Hawk gas analyser-I refer to the one & only Albert Wash -many thanks ,Albert.
Also did a little bit of bodywork re-alignement-by removing o/s front wing top bolts- we treated the exposed flange with Kurust then "Gold " Hammerite(all that Mike had available) leaving hopeful better alignememnt 'til next week to allow it to dry.We will be using Plumber's Mait by Evode to seal the flange.
scm924s
New member
It's worth checking the vac pipe from distributor to manifold. Originally it would have been a plastic pipe with 2 or 3 fabric covered rubber connectors, one each end and one in the middle. I have taken it off to blow through to check they are clear and found even if you put a finger over one end, you can still blow through! The rubber had broken under the fabric covering and wasn't obvious.
vitesse
Active member
Good tip Stan-had to replace the rubber at 1 end,when I started on this exercise,but I don't think I've then checked the integrity of the whole tube-it was in a bit of a mess then.
Will do a check next week-what note does it produce?[] I did casually check my Hella strobe rev meter for any change when reconnecting the vacuum pipe & thought there was a small change but was mainly concerned with the idle timing although I did check the advance from the centrifugal weights-quite a lag but then a healthy advance.
My empirical view of all this adjustment is that each time I find I have to reduce idle speed ,then that gives more up & at the top of the engine speed range.
Will do a check next week-what note does it produce?[
] I did casually check my Hella strobe rev meter for any change when reconnecting the vacuum pipe & thought there was a small change but was mainly concerned with the idle timing although I did check the advance from the centrifugal weights-quite a lag but then a healthy advance.My empirical view of all this adjustment is that each time I find I have to reduce idle speed ,then that gives more up & at the top of the engine speed range.
Waylander
Active member
He was selling the car for a third party, when I got it home the next day the fuel line split, then during fixing that I discovered I had driven the car home 200 miles with a broken balance belt flapping around in the covers, when I phoned the garage the service history was supposed to come from, they assured me they had never serviced the car.
That's what I get for not doing the due diligence
That's what I get for not doing the due diligence
vitesse
Active member
Oh dear-sorry to hear that-doesn't however sound like Albert's way of doing things -maybe he didn't know or hadn't checked the car over-maybe the belt snapped on your journey if the car hadnt been used for some time .
All postulation however-I bought my red track day 924s off eBay apart from the eBay posting new nothing about it for £ 950 -paid on collection in Wakefield .
Any money I have spent has been on improvements other than tyres &brakes .
Only just about to change timing belt after 42K miles but not the balance belt!-I did inspect them not long after purchase & they appeared virtually new (it came with many other new items like front seats recovered,carpets, door seals & a large cone filter -my impression was that many things had been replaced as he worked for a large Motor Factors over there)
Should say that background in power transmission products ,ie.chains ,timing belts ,v-belts & worm gears helped.
All postulation however-I bought my red track day 924s off eBay apart from the eBay posting new nothing about it for £ 950 -paid on collection in Wakefield .
Any money I have spent has been on improvements other than tyres &brakes .
Only just about to change timing belt after 42K miles but not the balance belt!-I did inspect them not long after purchase & they appeared virtually new (it came with many other new items like front seats recovered,carpets, door seals & a large cone filter -my impression was that many things had been replaced as he worked for a large Motor Factors over there)
Should say that background in power transmission products ,ie.chains ,timing belts ,v-belts & worm gears helped.
vitesse
Active member
Refitted all the bolts in the O/S front wing including 3 new ones inside rear flange which were missing & the bottom one into small tab on inner wing.
Had to re-form a heavy duty nut clip to fit over the washer bottle fixing flange for the bolt at that position -seemed to get a satisfactory seal using the Evode plumbers Mait.
Then reset the mixture & had again to reduce idle speed slightly & got better CO%.that was last week.
This week,another one of those pig type jobs-replacing the bonnet release cable which I advised Mike to do as the cable was fraying at the handle connection-didn't want to suddenly find no ability to access engine.( I suppose one could cut through the outer Bendix to pull the cable with Visegrips)
Anyway after a thorough examination of the latch ( why do Porsche build in these trick areas?) we decided we didn't need to remove the complete engine [] & threaded the new complete cable through the bulkhead & along the chassis rail where it cunningly slips through small handily placed holes where bracing is fitted rather than being wrapped in & around the engine bay as we found the one fitted.
Ended the session with smoothly working latch.Mike now just needs a couple of those rubber "L " shaped buffers to allow correct setting of the threaded adjustable top stud part of the latch.
All good fun!.
Had to re-form a heavy duty nut clip to fit over the washer bottle fixing flange for the bolt at that position -seemed to get a satisfactory seal using the Evode plumbers Mait.
Then reset the mixture & had again to reduce idle speed slightly & got better CO%.that was last week.
This week,another one of those pig type jobs-replacing the bonnet release cable which I advised Mike to do as the cable was fraying at the handle connection-didn't want to suddenly find no ability to access engine.( I suppose one could cut through the outer Bendix to pull the cable with Visegrips)
Anyway after a thorough examination of the latch ( why do Porsche build in these trick areas?) we decided we didn't need to remove the complete engine [
] & threaded the new complete cable through the bulkhead & along the chassis rail where it cunningly slips through small handily placed holes where bracing is fitted rather than being wrapped in & around the engine bay as we found the one fitted.Ended the session with smoothly working latch.Mike now just needs a couple of those rubber "L " shaped buffers to allow correct setting of the threaded adjustable top stud part of the latch.
All good fun!.
vitesse
Active member
Yes ,Stan,I was & hadn't checked PET /OPC-some things I get Mike to do but thanks for the tip-I'll get him to check them out .Many NLA parts he has sourced via ebay ,Porschapart,James at Only 9(he's quite a friend now as I've sourced quite a lot of bits for our own 2 cars ) & is waiting for a interior roof lining part to arrive from Woolies.
vitesse
Active member
Not much progress recently due to family visits,hospital appointments but recently correctly tightened up all seat belt fixing bolts after Mike had taken his wife with him down to a road near the beach to perform some -braking from speed - runs to try & bed in the front discs particularly prior to a nominal MOT . Guess what-the guy who resprayed the car had hardly engaged the passenger top mounting bolt & it came off-fortunately Barbara didn't fly through the screen.!
Also finally got the rear hatch latches to properly engage which involved removing the LH one ,filing the 2 mounting holes on their inner edges to get the latches to match the taper pin centres.This was the chosen route -rather than getting at the hatch hinges to correct the slight rightward set that the sprayshop had replaced the hatch at.-only around 3mm out max so not visually obvious.
Also finally got the rear hatch latches to properly engage which involved removing the LH one ,filing the 2 mounting holes on their inner edges to get the latches to match the taper pin centres.This was the chosen route -rather than getting at the hatch hinges to correct the slight rightward set that the sprayshop had replaced the hatch at.-only around 3mm out max so not visually obvious.
vitesse
Active member
A little more progress since last update:-against my better judgement,Mike decided to take the 924 to a friend's garage (he services & the Mike's Merc & Mini Cooper) whereas I wanted to check out brake pipes & improve the front brake discs 1st-car doesn't now need an MOT
legally but Mike thought he'd have one.
Of course it failed on disc condition plus both front brake pipes & the one long front to rear pipe which then crosses the torque tube to the NS rear brake-the other rear pipe had been previously replaced.
I removed the 3 pipes & we had copies made in copper down at Bootle Brake & Clutch for princely sum of £18 inc.
Refitted front pipes 2 weeks ago & completed fitting of rear pipe over the torque tube this last Thursday(family holiday in between).
Ended up easier than I had envisaged -had car jacked fairly high up on my axle stands-taped a length of extruded nylon solid cord to the rear nut & approx 100mm of pipe,made 2 tools to help-one with a shallow "U" the other with a hook to manipulate the copper pipe around the torque tube with Mike pulling on the nylon ,me pushing on the copper & using the tools as necessary.
Now just waiting for 2 new front bleed nipples to come from Germany via Bolton OPC.Some Mike had bought from a firm specialising in 924s' (starts with a W) in my absence were frankly rubbish,so he's sending them back.
Next week should see us filling with brake fluid ,comprehensive bleeding & back on the road[]
legally but Mike thought he'd have one.
Of course it failed on disc condition plus both front brake pipes & the one long front to rear pipe which then crosses the torque tube to the NS rear brake-the other rear pipe had been previously replaced.
I removed the 3 pipes & we had copies made in copper down at Bootle Brake & Clutch for princely sum of £18 inc.
Refitted front pipes 2 weeks ago & completed fitting of rear pipe over the torque tube this last Thursday(family holiday in between).
Ended up easier than I had envisaged -had car jacked fairly high up on my axle stands-taped a length of extruded nylon solid cord to the rear nut & approx 100mm of pipe,made 2 tools to help-one with a shallow "U" the other with a hook to manipulate the copper pipe around the torque tube with Mike pulling on the nylon ,me pushing on the copper & using the tools as necessary.
Now just waiting for 2 new front bleed nipples to come from Germany via Bolton OPC.Some Mike had bought from a firm specialising in 924s' (starts with a W) in my absence were frankly rubbish,so he's sending them back.
Next week should see us filling with brake fluid ,comprehensive bleeding & back on the road[
]
vitesse
Active member
Now all done-filled with fluid-Dot 4 -bled many times-o/s rear was most obstinate -heavy stamp on pedal finally dislodged a group of bubbles-then clipped new pipes into existing mountings plus the odd cable tie where mountings weak or broken so with a firm pedal went for a small run round Formby including a private road into the pinewoods where Mike did some emergency stops to again help clean up the front discs .
Having not been run for several weeks ,i was really pleased how easily the engine now starts -a little "fluttery " until starts warming up & when hot yesterday in this sunny weather was well behaved & responsive.
Finally we fitted the passenger door mirror which had taken Mike ages to find-alles gut as they say sur le continent.
[]
Having not been run for several weeks ,i was really pleased how easily the engine now starts -a little "fluttery " until starts warming up & when hot yesterday in this sunny weather was well behaved & responsive.
Finally we fitted the passenger door mirror which had taken Mike ages to find-alles gut as they say sur le continent.
[
]
vitesse
Active member
Rather insignificant but important update to Mikes car.It didn't have a clip securing the throttle cable hook at the throttle body so I had made do with half a brass connector from within one of those white nylon connector strips,clamped on underneath the lever-a little tenuous but OK for local trips.
It has taken me until now to persuade him to remove the deadlock from his wallet & buy the proper Porsche part no-823721569-called a retainer spring .I can understand his reluctance in a way-cost to me with discount-£20.29 inc £1 carriage & VAT-for a tiny piece smaller than a paper clip-I'm sure they used to be much larger when I had a 924!
Hopefully he can now get out & drive it around with confidence.
It has taken me until now to persuade him to remove the deadlock from his wallet & buy the proper Porsche part no-823721569-called a retainer spring .I can understand his reluctance in a way-cost to me with discount-£20.29 inc £1 carriage & VAT-for a tiny piece smaller than a paper clip-I'm sure they used to be much larger when I had a 924!
Hopefully he can now get out & drive it around with confidence.
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