1986 2.5 944 engine swap

[Vortex553]

My '86 2.5 Lux recently suffered from a snapped cambelt []

My initial thoughts were that it probably wouldn't be economical to repair it as an engine rebuild seems like it could easily cost more than the value of the car.

However, I've noticed that there seems to be a fairly healthy supply of 944 engines on ebay - what I really want to know is how big a job is it to swap the engine? I'm not capable of doing it myself - I don't have the tools or knowledge - is this a job which a local garage/mechanic could do? Or does it need to be done by a Porsche specialist?

Has anybody had experince of having an engine swap done and can give me a rough idea of the costs/amount of labour required?

Thanks!

PS the car is in North Lincolnshire if anyone has any recommendations for good garages/mechanics in that area

 

[Elliot]

Hi

we are based just south of sleaford

General rule for engines £250 to £500 depending on condition and mileage
labour rate £35 an hour and allow 10 hours for a decent engine change.

Always advise cam and belt change and service prior to driving on the road.

Give me a call if you need some advice

cheers Elliot 07514 944 964

www.porkaparts.com

 

[Mike_Pollock]

I did an engine swap on the drive at home, so it is pretty straight forward.
Elliot has all the gear the knowledge and the bits and is not too far from you.......

 

[944Turbo]

Given some of the recent threads on cambelts do you mind me asking how old yours was and how many miles since the last swap? Welcome to the forum sorry its under such unfortunate circumstances!
Tony

 

[944 man]

A good engine can be bought for £150 and a proper specialist (PH Sportscars AKA Kirkman Motor Engineers for eg) can be engaged for £35 an hour.

 

[Vortex553]

ORIGINAL: 944Turbo

Given some of the recent threads on cambelts do you mind me asking how old yours was and how many miles since the last swap? Welcome to the forum sorry its under such unfortunate circumstances!
Tony

Thanks, I've been lurking for a while!

The belts were done 8 years ago but had only done a few thousand miles - the guy I bought it from had barely had it out of his garage since they were done. I knew I was possibly pushing my luck, and getting new belts was on my "list of things to do", so I can now definitely recommend getting the belts done every 4 or 5 years regardless of mileage!

 

[JamesO]

Assuming it was running well with good oil pressure/lack of smoke before the belt went, surely its worth investing in a socket set and taking the Head off for a look, you cant make it any worse.
Its probably just some bent valves and a used unknown engine is always a gamble.

Oh as an example a quick fleabay search found this :- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PORSCHE-944-CYLINDER-HEAD-8-VALVE-GOOD-CONDITION-/270767967535?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f0b074d2f

Its got to be much cheaper labour wise to source a used head as you still need to have the belts, service etc on a used engine.

 

[Mike_Pollock]

I've got a good early 2.5 head in the garage.

 

[The Count]

I've just carried out a rebuild and engine swap on my 944 engine after the original destroyed itself - take a look at the link for my build thread it may help you to understand what's involved and the time etc needed to do an engine swap and rebuild.

James


944 engine rebuild

 

[Mike_Pollock]

I swapped mine as it was the start of the summer and I wanted the car off the road for as little time as possible.
I checked out the availability of engines one Saturday, decided to do it Sunday, agreed terms etc on new engine Tuesday, started undoing bits Tuesday and Wednesday evenings, replaced the front shocks and bushes Thursday evening, picked up engine hoist Friday after work and dropped engine out.
Saturday picked up engine got it home and realised how many differences there were and spent the rest of the day swapping engine loom fuel rail and various sensors.
Sunday installed engine and fired it up.
Monday took hoist back and remitted rear of suspension and steering except for the one nut I had had to cut off.
Tuesday got replacement nut and took it our for a test run.
Following Sunday went to Chatsworth for R8 day out!

I did it on the driveway as it would have taken me several weeks for me to rebuild engine, it would have taken weeks to clear enough space in the garage!

 

[tref]

So I could get some-one to do it for me, I wrote down all the steps involved in dropping the engine out (and I think replacing). I did similar for changing the head gasket only on my S2 (really no different to an 8V, except I did change the belt tensioner pad, but did nothing to the valves) and there was more involved in taking the head off and putting it back on, it is just lighter...

Tref.

 

[spyro_x]

The Count - I looked through your thread on the other forum and have to say very impressed- great photo's throughout and attention to detail! It would be nice if those exhaust manifolds stayed that colour and particularly liked the milled rocker cover. Nice work.

 

[JamesO]

ORIGINAL: tref

So I could get some-one to do it for me, I wrote down all the steps involved in dropping the engine out (and I think replacing). I did similar for changing the head gasket only on my S2 (really no different to an 8V, except I did change the belt tensioner pad, but did nothing to the valves) and there was more involved in taking the head off and putting it back on, it is just lighter...

Tref.

So are you saying its quicker to swap an engine than it is to swap a cylinder head? Maybe on a production line!
Then again I've only done engine swaps with a hoist and axle stands so maybe with a ramp etc it would be a lot quicker. It would be interesting to get the two book times to compare.
The 8 valve head is definitely easier to fit/remove.

If dropping the engine, also budget for a wheel alignment as the wishbones need to come off.

 

[tref]

Er, yep! I only have a hoist and axle stands, but do work steadily... certain jobs I like to take my time over and get "right" - head off means cleaning up gasket faces carefully - and also belts - no option, they need to be replaced/retensioned. Of course, if I were swapping an engine I would change the belts as a matter of course, together with the thermostat, as both these jobs are sooo much easier with the engine out of the car... nevertheless, I think the awkwardness of these jobs in the car, compared to the simple unbolt/bolt up nature of an engine swap makes the swap quicker...

It may be because I have pulled more engines than I have cylinderheads in situ, that I am more familiar with it, and have the tools to make it easy... though in truth the same is still probably true for pulling a cylinderhead.