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'73 RS History

Just been through the compost heap (aka my files) and I haven't found the drawing. When I'm back from the Portugal Rally and when Bob Watson has finished with the RS, I'll do some snaps and post them. I'll also post the snaps of the version that I made in 3mm plate and which bears a mark or two.
 
£87K did I read that correctly? For what sounds like Trigger's brush!!

It looks like a nice car, but surely you're paying silly money for something valued purely off the back of £150K museum originals and an RS chassis number. I thought my original low mileage, numbers matching 2.4S was expensive, but it now looks like bargain of the century!

If it really has to be an RS (I can understand that part) surely you'd be better off going for a sub £50K replica with exactly the same mechanical spec, but with a T chassis number. What's the real difference apart from a £40K saving? A non-matching RS is hardly going to be a great investment anyway and certainly not at nearly £90K!

Your basic dilemma is similar to mine a few years ago. I couldn't afford a mint RS, but I could afford a mint 2.4S or an RS replica. I went for the 2.4S because it seemed like a better investment and a bit more special. Never regretted it since.
 
Here is one picture I have managed to get so far

Micky1.jpg
 
Hi Nick
Thanks for the pic,yes they are lolipop repros.
I would be interested in them,as they look a bit better than my sparco seats in the gp4 racer.
I think i can get around the seats having to be current fia spec.
Email me if they are for sale please.
Regards
 
hi james here is the tank guard.

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regards nick
 
Anyone got an idea why the center cut out at the front? It doesn't look to be there for any clearance reasons and by having it there all the muck and crap from the road is going to end up in there.

Also what does the rear attach to? It looks like it bolts to another bit of tinwear that goes over the front cross member.

Ian.
 
ORIGINAL: ian_uk

Anyone got an idea why the center cut out at the front? It doesn't look to be there for any clearance reasons and by having it there all the muck and crap from the road is going to end up in there.

Also what does the rear attach to? It looks like it bolts to another bit of tinwear that goes over the front cross member.

Ian.

If you mean the cut out at the front of the seat base, this will be to allow the lower part of a 5 or 6 point harness to come through, the lower part needs to be attatched to the floor below the seat...standard practice on race style seats.
 
Ian - the cut-out at the front of the tank guard is to clear the front tow hook (which is absent on the blue car shown with the guard fitted.
 

ORIGINAL: Nick Green

hi james here is the tank guard.

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regards nick

Thanks nick [:)]

 
ORIGINAL: Lightweight_911

Ian - the cut-out at the front of the tank guard is to clear the front tow hook (which is absent on the blue car shown with the guard fitted.

Ah ha. Guess I've never seen a tow hook there. They always seem to be bolted to one of the front torsion bar mounts.

Ian.
 

ORIGINAL: Alex Postan

PS  Epoch911, just buy the car!  It is the things that one doesn't do that become regrets......and it's only money

Done it. Collect it Wednesday. Unbelievable.
Ant
 
Well two days into ownership and still speechless. A total sensory experience and like nothing I have ever driven. All that stuff about "incorrect wipers" here and "later model" fusebox there just melts away. Sure there is work to do but this is the start of the next few years of tinkering pleasure...for now it's drive, drive, drive and following sound check failure at Castle Combe - a respectable 104db - you can imagine what that's like! For some reason I can't upload a picture...will keep trying

One question...anyone got any recommendations on an immobiliser and, more importantly, tracker system that won't interfere with the old electrics and drain away the battery?

More to come!

Ant
 
unless you need an imobiliser for your insurance I wouldn't bother. If you want to imobilise your car there are 'other' ways of doing it yourself without having to resort to nasty electrical devices.

When ever you hear about early cars with starting issues etc there seems to be an imobiliser at the root of the problem [:-]

Anyway, sounds like you're having fun with the car [:D]

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Congratulations.

I can recommend JZ Machtech for any service work. Jonas, Steve and David know these cars intimately, and have worked on them since they were contemporary, and look after several of the best RSs.

It is worth enjoying the car as it is, but gradually getting the parts together for a time in the future when you want to give it a more thorough restoration. Although a full strip down and rebuild is expensive, often it is far better than continually fiddling around the edges.

IMO best money you can spend now would be to get JZ to check it over, tune the MFI on their dyno, set up the geometry and brakes. They will also fit a discreet immobiliser. Ask Steve about the engine. At rebuild, it may be worth 'back-dating' it to '73 spec, with new crankcases. Don't know if you can re-stamp the original engine number. You couldn't disguise its history, but you could get as close as possible to ex-factory spec., which is what most people want.

Nice project, a genuine piece of Porsche history, and yes, the RS really is a remarkable little car.
 

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