8000 rpm 3.2 engine?
- Thread starter 911hillclimber
- Start date
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The plan is to go twinspark with Clewett ignitionsysten for twinspark.
carbs will remain, doubt injection will add much as the car is either full throttle or tick over!
carbs will remain, doubt injection will add much as the car is either full throttle or tick over!
Keep the pics coming Graham. It’s great to see the simplicity of these air-cooled engines.
For cleaning parts unfortunately there’s no substitute for plenty of elbow grease! For alloy parts I assume one of the many forms of mechanical cleaning isn’t suitable, being too aggressive?
I don’t want to get into a detailed discussion about bolt torquing but suffice it to say that the only reliable and consistent method of clamping two surfaces together is to use crush nuts, although clearly that’s not available to you. A nice digital torque wrench certainly will give you accurate measurements but you’re still into the vagaries of thread mating and surface finishes on the bolt and clamped surface potentially causing different amounts of friction on each bolt and giving a spread of true torqued values.
Jeff
For cleaning parts unfortunately there’s no substitute for plenty of elbow grease! For alloy parts I assume one of the many forms of mechanical cleaning isn’t suitable, being too aggressive?
I don’t want to get into a detailed discussion about bolt torquing but suffice it to say that the only reliable and consistent method of clamping two surfaces together is to use crush nuts, although clearly that’s not available to you. A nice digital torque wrench certainly will give you accurate measurements but you’re still into the vagaries of thread mating and surface finishes on the bolt and clamped surface potentially causing different amounts of friction on each bolt and giving a spread of true torqued values.
Jeff
Yes, consistent torque on all sizes is a bit tricky and several significant variables too.
My trusty wrench is now about 45 years old, so not sure how accurate and repeatable it is!
I have 2 wrenches when I do the crankcase up and you need different torques, but the sealant is also going off quickly so bit of a race to position, seal and torque about 25 nuts in less than 40 mins.
These engines are very simple and slightly awkward but are so beautifully made with all casings located spot-on by dowels.
Cam timing is a heart stopper mind...
A good picture says a 1000 words.
My trusty wrench is now about 45 years old, so not sure how accurate and repeatable it is!
I have 2 wrenches when I do the crankcase up and you need different torques, but the sealant is also going off quickly so bit of a race to position, seal and torque about 25 nuts in less than 40 mins.
These engines are very simple and slightly awkward but are so beautifully made with all casings located spot-on by dowels.
Cam timing is a heart stopper mind...
A good picture says a 1000 words.
Spent 3 hours removing all the hard sealant off the heads and cam housings in prep for taking them to Headshop in Warrington for machining.
Tedious and even had the tedious radio on to ease the boredom.
I think the Loctite solvent on it's way will remove te much smaller bits left and they are ready to soak overnight in neat brake cleaner to remove the last of the carbon residue in the ports.
The cam covers have a casting number of early 1988, so this engine s 1988, always thought it was 86.
Will order the Kent Cams and spring kit tomorrow, big outlay as ever.
Getting bothered about WEVO/Twin Spark and the gateshift order I have with them.
2 broken shipping promises and I'm not alone according to Impact Bumpers....
Tedious and even had the tedious radio on to ease the boredom.
I think the Loctite solvent on it's way will remove te much smaller bits left and they are ready to soak overnight in neat brake cleaner to remove the last of the carbon residue in the ports.
The cam covers have a casting number of early 1988, so this engine s 1988, always thought it was 86.
Will order the Kent Cams and spring kit tomorrow, big outlay as ever.
Getting bothered about WEVO/Twin Spark and the gateshift order I have with them.
2 broken shipping promises and I'm not alone according to Impact Bumpers....
Thanks Andrew.
as to racing at Guston, we have spectate there twice, and I quite fancy it despite the paint of trailering down there, but the wife is against it.
we know 3 people who have had difficulties doing the hill, one with near bad injury, so that cancelled it out!
as to racing at Guston, we have spectate there twice, and I quite fancy it despite the paint of trailering down there, but the wife is against it.
we know 3 people who have had difficulties doing the hill, one with near bad injury, so that cancelled it out!
All looking very spic-sparkly Graham. Worth the effort I’m sure.
I’m intrigued to know how the second plug hole is machined into the head, presumably directly opposite the existing one via the diagonally opposite hole seen in the second pic? There must be a lot of material available, although at least there aren’t any coolant galleries to worry about. A very skilful job all the same.
Jeff
I’m intrigued to know how the second plug hole is machined into the head, presumably directly opposite the existing one via the diagonally opposite hole seen in the second pic? There must be a lot of material available, although at least there aren’t any coolant galleries to worry about. A very skilful job all the same.
Jeff
The second drilling is a well known mod going way way back into the 70s at least.
it is required to get a spark and hence flame front either side of the high crown Pistons.
There are YouTube vids galore but you need to take great care or you will break off some cooling fins.
the chamber has to be machined from both sides to open the plug electrode to the chamber.
Many have jigs for this repetitive job so once set up the machining is almost boring!
sharp tools and great care required.
and about £700.
it is required to get a spark and hence flame front either side of the high crown Pistons.
There are YouTube vids galore but you need to take great care or you will break off some cooling fins.
the chamber has to be machined from both sides to open the plug electrode to the chamber.
Many have jigs for this repetitive job so once set up the machining is almost boring!
sharp tools and great care required.
and about £700.
Lots to update on:
Cams and springs arrived today, 56 hours after ordering them.
WEVO Shiftgate arrives tomorrow after a game, Government made more money than anyone else involved.
Split the crank cases.
Made a DIY quality splitter like the one sold by Stromski Racing (sorry to them). Cost me £8.75 and a few hours on my trusty 1939 lathe.
Undid a zillion case bolts and screw, even those that hide from you (3).
Assembled the DIY splitter and turned the socket set....
Pop!
It only worked perfectly. Amazingly easy, so worth the faff of making one (Stromski is a lovely design and $370)
No effort to open the cases at all, ridiculously easy.
Crank out, mains are perfect, pump feels super smooth, laygear looks ace.
Drips of oil all over the floor, but hoping to get a 'charity payment' parts washer this weekend from a DDK'r.
So much cleaning to do, but then a BIG wait for an uncertain delivery from the USA at Xmas.....
Pictures here:
DIY splitter parts. The stud is M20 to scale it.
All in place on #2 conrod, set at BDC.
Cams and springs arrived today, 56 hours after ordering them.
WEVO Shiftgate arrives tomorrow after a game, Government made more money than anyone else involved.
Split the crank cases.
Made a DIY quality splitter like the one sold by Stromski Racing (sorry to them). Cost me £8.75 and a few hours on my trusty 1939 lathe.
Undid a zillion case bolts and screw, even those that hide from you (3).
Assembled the DIY splitter and turned the socket set....
Pop!
It only worked perfectly. Amazingly easy, so worth the faff of making one (Stromski is a lovely design and $370)
No effort to open the cases at all, ridiculously easy.
Crank out, mains are perfect, pump feels super smooth, laygear looks ace.
Drips of oil all over the floor, but hoping to get a 'charity payment' parts washer this weekend from a DDK'r.
So much cleaning to do, but then a BIG wait for an uncertain delivery from the USA at Xmas.....
Pictures here:
DIY splitter parts. The stud is M20 to scale it.
All in place on #2 conrod, set at BDC.
Good job on the splitter Graham. $324 (+ mega import duty no doubt!) for the Stromski kit is ridiculously expensive for what it is. Pleased to hear that you made sure that you removed all the "fasteners” … lost count of the number of times Stromski mentioned that in the video!
Are you planning to remove the rods to inspect the crank and big-end bearings or leave well alone?
Time to get scrubbing!
Jeff
Are you planning to remove the rods to inspect the crank and big-end bearings or leave well alone?
Time to get scrubbing!
Jeff
Yes, he sure goes on about ALL of them, BUT, I did find one I had missed after 6 checks...(one by the distributor)
It was nice making one out of what was in the garage plus the expense of the M20 all thread and nuts, heavy duty!
Hope to remove the rods tomorrow, assemble back on the stock pistons and store them away. Next lathe job is to make a piston wrist pin retaining clip insertion device.
Getting a posh parts washer with a flow pump over the weekend at the DDK swap meet.
Am I ever sick of drips of engine oil.
All bearings will be replaced everywhere, chains and ramps and a million O rings that seal a million items on these great simple bomb-proof engines. Megzer was a genius.
It was nice making one out of what was in the garage plus the expense of the M20 all thread and nuts, heavy duty!
Hope to remove the rods tomorrow, assemble back on the stock pistons and store them away. Next lathe job is to make a piston wrist pin retaining clip insertion device.
Getting a posh parts washer with a flow pump over the weekend at the DDK swap meet.
Am I ever sick of drips of engine oil.
All bearings will be replaced everywhere, chains and ramps and a million O rings that seal a million items on these great simple bomb-proof engines. Megzer was a genius.
WEVO gateshift actually arrived, an expensive small box of natty bits.
Took the rods off the crank, bolts much harder to unscrew than I thought, but all big ends are wonderful. Crank RINGS and RINgs and rings, and ring, and rin,ri,r
Cleaned the cases of old sealant, bagged a lot of parts up and had a big tidy and de-oil of the floor, the bench and me.
So wish the rods and pistons were coming soon.
Heads having a final clean/soak overnight ready to be dropped-off for twin plug machining.
Started a ring binder to put the BIG BILLS already amassing away, out of sight, out of mind.
Took the rods off the crank, bolts much harder to unscrew than I thought, but all big ends are wonderful. Crank RINGS and RINgs and rings, and ring, and rin,ri,r
Cleaned the cases of old sealant, bagged a lot of parts up and had a big tidy and de-oil of the floor, the bench and me.
So wish the rods and pistons were coming soon.
Heads having a final clean/soak overnight ready to be dropped-off for twin plug machining.
Started a ring binder to put the BIG BILLS already amassing away, out of sight, out of mind.
Expensive, but if it saves you buzzing the engine it’s worth every penny Graham! I think you said that installation is being left to a specialist rather than DIY?
Just out of interest, since this is a full core-engine rebuild how do you run-in a race engine assuming you don’t have access to a dyno?
Jeff
Just out of interest, since this is a full core-engine rebuild how do you run-in a race engine assuming you don’t have access to a dyno?
Jeff
Gearbox will go back to Mike Bainbridge in the flooded Lake District.
You need the right tools...
Race engines are not treated well.
The man with the rolling road will break it in, usually a controlled step of revs to bed the rings and cams.
Basic timing and a few power runs to then tweek.
After the first 2 meetings I'll retorque the heads down, oil and filter change.
split the filter to see if anything horrid in trapped in there...
Heart stopping moments!
Lot to do until then.
You need the right tools...
Race engines are not treated well.
The man with the rolling road will break it in, usually a controlled step of revs to bed the rings and cams.
Basic timing and a few power runs to then tweek.
After the first 2 meetings I'll retorque the heads down, oil and filter change.
split the filter to see if anything horrid in trapped in there...
Heart stopping moments!
Lot to do until then.
Read on here there is a shortage of bearings for these engines, and that is dead right.
Placed a good order for all the rebuild bits with Design911 (7% discount) but chains and crank main bearings out of stock and no re-stock date....
At least all the other bits arrive for the shelf next Monday.
Fingers crossed they all arrive for Xmas along with the pistons and rods.
Placed a good order for all the rebuild bits with Design911 (7% discount) but chains and crank main bearings out of stock and no re-stock date....
At least all the other bits arrive for the shelf next Monday.
Fingers crossed they all arrive for Xmas along with the pistons and rods.
All bought now, but the chap who is in the Classic Porsche trade said there are no bearings anywhere.
The ice for the same parts, genuine Porsche are 4 times more expensive, but I've asked Des911 when they might have stock.
Other parts do not arrive until end December, 2 months away, but that is not sure either!
The ice for the same parts, genuine Porsche are 4 times more expensive, but I've asked Des911 when they might have stock.
Other parts do not arrive until end December, 2 months away, but that is not sure either!
Had a busy day in the gaage. with no engine parts in sight I turned to the oil system and removed and cleaned the cooler and the huge dry sump tank.
Car was very dirty when they were removed, but everything good now.
It was with some trepidation I split the dry sump tank to see what was in the bottom after 5 years use. Swarf, bits of steel, shards of aluminium?
Nope, clean as a whistle, so chuffed.
This was a very good engine!
Dirty:
Dry sump apart:
Together again:
Cooler, cleaned and back in. So much dirt trapped in the cooling fins!
finally, a bit of garage action.
Got my heads back from The Head Shop in Warrington who have machined them for twin plugs.
Great to deal with, promised 3 weeks and a good price, ready by 3 weeks at the same price, no surprises, price quoted inc VAT, what a refreshing change.
Bought a nice new valve lapping stick with supple rubber cups so grip these huge valves, and after clearing the carbon from the exhaust ports and re-fitting some studs (removed to access the area for machining) finally ground the valves on one head, set the small temporary springs to hold the valves tight and all fitted to the heads with shim-less assembly but the titanium top caps to measure the height for the racing springs.
This method works a treat, no fancy £110 tools, just 2 simple springs, £2.00 each.
With the tension on the two valves, 2 plugs in tight, inverted the head and filled the combustion chamber with white spirit to wait for leaks. One drop came free after 35 mins when a fellwe DDK'r arrived!
Drained the spirit off and measured the distance from the underside of the top cup and the lower spring seat.
For the springs I need close to 36mm on both valves, so by adding the right number of shims managed to get to 35.8 and 36.2mm. Can't get closer as the shims are in 0.5mm thickness only.
Springs in tomorrow and that will be one head done, 5 to go.
My main crank bearings and chains cleared Customs today, so they will be with me end of next week.
Another long wait then for the pistons and rods.
Got my heads back from The Head Shop in Warrington who have machined them for twin plugs.
Great to deal with, promised 3 weeks and a good price, ready by 3 weeks at the same price, no surprises, price quoted inc VAT, what a refreshing change.
Bought a nice new valve lapping stick with supple rubber cups so grip these huge valves, and after clearing the carbon from the exhaust ports and re-fitting some studs (removed to access the area for machining) finally ground the valves on one head, set the small temporary springs to hold the valves tight and all fitted to the heads with shim-less assembly but the titanium top caps to measure the height for the racing springs.
This method works a treat, no fancy £110 tools, just 2 simple springs, £2.00 each.
With the tension on the two valves, 2 plugs in tight, inverted the head and filled the combustion chamber with white spirit to wait for leaks. One drop came free after 35 mins when a fellwe DDK'r arrived!
Drained the spirit off and measured the distance from the underside of the top cup and the lower spring seat.
For the springs I need close to 36mm on both valves, so by adding the right number of shims managed to get to 35.8 and 36.2mm. Can't get closer as the shims are in 0.5mm thickness only.
Springs in tomorrow and that will be one head done, 5 to go.
My main crank bearings and chains cleared Customs today, so they will be with me end of next week.
Another long wait then for the pistons and rods.
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