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944 S2 Brakes

£799 each for a front caliper new from Porsche . So rebuild is worth it even at half that price.
 
colin944 said:
£799 each for a front caliper new from Porsche . So rebuild is worth it even at half that price.


People are talking about spending more than half the price, hardly a bargain is it?
 
Yes agree Porsche Classic are now having us bent over with silly prices instead of helping us out to keep them on the road, something they are proud of with respect to how many cars produced are still on the road, they are not helping us at all !
Anyway after some engineering the larger 44mm scraper seals are in, I ground a "lead in" chamfer on the edge of the seals, Thomas at Pro- Calipers has told me he fits them just using a flat bar across them and making sure they are square, he is more talented than me if that's the case.
Should be on this week, yippee do dah !
Anyone after a completed set of fronts that will fit MO30 but have 42 & 38 mm pistons as opposed to 44mm / 40 mm drop me a line and they are yours for £400 mint and ready to fit.
 
Frenchy said:
Anyone after a completed set of fronts that will fit MO30 but have 42 & 38 mm pistons as opposed to 44mm / 40 mm drop me a line and they are yours for £400 mint and ready to fit.


In light of what's been written here they sound like a bargain. Anyone have a link to a step by step overhaul with pics for late turbo calipers?
 
blade7 said:
Frenchy said:
Anyone after a completed set of fronts that will fit MO30 but have 42 & 38 mm pistons as opposed to 44mm / 40 mm drop me a line and they are yours for £400 mint and ready to fit.


In light of what's been written here they sound like a bargain. Anyone have a link to a step by step overhaul with pics for late turbo calipers?


Just had a call to say my lift plate bolts won’t budge and need drilling which means helicoil!!!
 
Why can’t they weld a bolt on the top and get them out that way? The heat breaks the bond also. That’s how everyone else does it.
 
robwright said:
Why can’t they weld a bolt on the top and get them out that way? The heat breaks the bond also. That’s how everyone else does it.


Last ones I did ,welded M8 nuts onto the dome head sets using a MIG welder to plug weld the centres.
Small socket ,extension & ratchet & they were out-as said the heat also breaks the Loctite type stuff.
 
vitesse said:
robwright said:
Why can’t they weld a bolt on the top and get them out that way? The heat breaks the bond also. That’s how everyone else does it.


Last ones I did ,welded M8 nuts onto the dome head sets using a MIG welder to plug weld the centres.
Small socket ,extension & ratchet & they were out-as said the heat also breaks the Loctite type stuff.
that is the best way of getting them out, MIG a nut on the top,

Calipers with 36/40 pistons are now £836 each
or if you wish to go nuts the M030 36/44 Piston Calipers are £1105.06 each

so a full refurb for 2 for £400 is a dam bargain

 
Waylander said:
Calipers with 36/40 pistons are now £836 each
or if you wish to go nuts the M030 36/44 Piston Calipers are £1105.06 each

so a full refurb for 2 for £400 is a dam bargain


Depends what you mean by a full refurb? My take is that's just seals and paint, and maybe bleed nipples.
 
you only need to replace the pistons if they are corroded, and i have found so far the pistons are sticky because of the 30year old grease that is badly contaminated with dust and crap that has got in around the pistons because the dust caps have been damaged or perished,

once they have had a good clean up and re-lube new fluid seals and dust seals they are as good as new
 
So are you implying robwright on this thread has had his pants pulled down? I remember Jon Mitchell posting about anodising the pistons or bores to restore them to as new.
 
I'm no expert on caliber renovation but I do question some of the crazy prices out there?... Now I've not driven another 951 for comparison but can say that I'm happy with my brakes currently, would I like a refurbed set?..of course, but it's unlikely to ever happen being retired from active service so to speak and would they be worth the money for me, perhaps not? With the help of son number 2 (not the mechanic) we part stripped down my brakes and cleaned them as they weren't working too well at slow speeds. This must be over 15 years ago now, AFAIK this is the only time that the brakes have been touched, there's no record from the previous owner of any work required on the brakes. Perhaps I've been lucky, no plate lift or at least not enough to affect anything, I do need to change disk's and pads at some point soon as they have been on the car for a long time, 12 years at least, pads still have plenty of meat on them and there is a lip so I'll need to get this sorted.
I don't do track days and I don't brake hard, in fact, I drive as taught by my father (a professional driver) who taught me to always use the gears. It's not so much to slow the car but to always be in the correct gear to react quickly to any given situation. Today's youngsters are taught to 'block change' coast up to a set of red lights in whatever gear they are in and then change down...that to me is 100% bad driving...no way have you got full control of the car. My wife was taught to drive like this, (she didn't start driving till late) I recall her following me to Wales when we had 5 children and decided for the first time to take both cars, she'd only been driving a couple of weeks. Anyway we took the 'horseshoe' pass route...perhaps not the best thing for a new driver but she's a spirited lady...I noticed her struggling getting up the steep incline and had to stop and go back....problem...she had always been taught to 'block change'...nothing about being in the right gear for the right situation...to you and I this may seem stupid, I assure she's isn't.... when you are new to driving, very new, perhaps what I would call 'common sense' doesn't kick in when you're so new to something. In her defence we don't have hills around here so she was never taught to down change for an incline, add 'block change' teachings and it was to be expected, she thought I was joking when I said she may need to stay in 2nd to go up the pass in traffic.
The moral of the story...perhaps this is why today's drivers are crap and dangerous to others.....anyway..I've deviated off the subject matter....must be my old age.......:)

Pete
 
To get my caliper slider plate bolts out, cleaned the heads and chopped down an Allen key into 20 mm lengths welded them into the hex fastener head, let cool and get a quarter inch drive socket and ratchet in there, sorted them out.
 
42491332054_5a6adbcd3b_k.jpg
[/url]36656595_1458953797543964_5139224829781606400_n by steve_sowka, on Flickr[/IMG]
27JPbDm


Bolt condition
 
Porsche and Brembo do not recommend splitting the calipers for any reason,

the plate bolts look like a Miged Nut on those plus the heat would not be too bad to get out, the main Allen Bolts are now finished,

the cross over pipes are dam expensive from Porsche, £93.00 a caliper.

If you went with Porsche for New everything to rebuild.

the Parts alone would be £363.00 without paint, OH and I forgot the bleed nipples at £20 each x 4



 
Waylander said:
Porsche and Brembo do not recommend splitting the calipers for any reason,

the plate bolts look like a Miged Nut on those plus the heat would not be too bad to get out, the main Allen Bolts are now finished,

the cross over pipes are dam expensive from Porsche, £93.00 a caliper.

If you went with Porsche for New everything to rebuild.

the Parts alone would be £363.00 without paint,


Bugger, this is getting blimin expenses!!!
 
Anyone with a pipe flaring tool can knock up crossover pipes for coppers, they are only a short section of brake line with a male fitting either end, looking at the pics of the slider plates, my method would have got them out.
Porsche recommend not splitting the calipers though not sure why ?
 

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