allanpriormuir
New member
Hi , can anyone supply pictuyre of frt end of the engine on a 944 s2 1991 , to show timing marks , I intend fitting new belts and would appreciate any advise
regards
allan p
regards
allan p
944 s2
- Thread starter allanpriormuir
- Start date
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peanut
Active member
good luck tomorrow.
You won't be dissapointed.
My recommendation would be to check the rear of the cills and lower rear wheel arch where they meet. Make sure it hasn't been filled and touched up. Cills are expensive.
I found this guide on Clarkes excellent site. I couldn't find a way to link to the page so I copied it here. I'm hoping its not a problem but if anyone thinks it is please say and I'll remove it.
Buying a 944 from Clarks Garage
When purchasing a 944 or 944 Turbo you must realize that the prices of these cars are, like everything else, governed by the laws of supply and demand. It may be worth your time and effort to concentrate your search for a car in an area where the supply is much larger. Not only will you find a better selection, but the prices can be significantly less. In my case, I saved myself several thousand dollars by buying a car in Atlanta, GA instead of Charlotte, NC. This strategy does of course have its drawbacks. It can require a lot of research in the classified ads of newspapers and possibly a number of long distance phone calls. However, searching Internet classified ads can now make this process much more cost effective and less time consuming. The best and most frequently offered advice on purchasing a 944 is to purchase the best example you can afford. While a car that needs a little fixing up may seem like a great deal on the surface, over the long haul it will probably end up costing you more money. Unless, of course you do all your own work. A good set of maintenance records is almost a must when purchasing a 944. Some of the maintenance items on a 944 carry a big price tag. For example, if you're trying to decide between two cars, the one that recently had the clutch replaced may be the better choice, even if it costs several hundred dollars more. The 944 timing belts are a key maintenance item that should have been done at the required intervals. If maintenance records can not demonstrate that they have been replaced or inspected at required intervals, either pass on the car, have them replaced prior to purchase, or ask for a lower price and replace them immediately after purchase. Neglected timing belt maintenance will cost you a lot of money. Have any car you are seriously thinking about purchasing inspected by a mechanic familiar with 944s. A good 944 mechanic can tell you what needs to be fixed immediately, what can wait, and what your average maintenance costs might be. To perform an adequate inspection, the car should be put on a lift and the belly pan removed. Here's a list of specific items that should be looked at:
You won't be dissapointed.
My recommendation would be to check the rear of the cills and lower rear wheel arch where they meet. Make sure it hasn't been filled and touched up. Cills are expensive.
I found this guide on Clarkes excellent site. I couldn't find a way to link to the page so I copied it here. I'm hoping its not a problem but if anyone thinks it is please say and I'll remove it.
Buying a 944 from Clarks Garage
When purchasing a 944 or 944 Turbo you must realize that the prices of these cars are, like everything else, governed by the laws of supply and demand. It may be worth your time and effort to concentrate your search for a car in an area where the supply is much larger. Not only will you find a better selection, but the prices can be significantly less. In my case, I saved myself several thousand dollars by buying a car in Atlanta, GA instead of Charlotte, NC. This strategy does of course have its drawbacks. It can require a lot of research in the classified ads of newspapers and possibly a number of long distance phone calls. However, searching Internet classified ads can now make this process much more cost effective and less time consuming. The best and most frequently offered advice on purchasing a 944 is to purchase the best example you can afford. While a car that needs a little fixing up may seem like a great deal on the surface, over the long haul it will probably end up costing you more money. Unless, of course you do all your own work. A good set of maintenance records is almost a must when purchasing a 944. Some of the maintenance items on a 944 carry a big price tag. For example, if you're trying to decide between two cars, the one that recently had the clutch replaced may be the better choice, even if it costs several hundred dollars more. The 944 timing belts are a key maintenance item that should have been done at the required intervals. If maintenance records can not demonstrate that they have been replaced or inspected at required intervals, either pass on the car, have them replaced prior to purchase, or ask for a lower price and replace them immediately after purchase. Neglected timing belt maintenance will cost you a lot of money. Have any car you are seriously thinking about purchasing inspected by a mechanic familiar with 944s. A good 944 mechanic can tell you what needs to be fixed immediately, what can wait, and what your average maintenance costs might be. To perform an adequate inspection, the car should be put on a lift and the belly pan removed. Here's a list of specific items that should be looked at:
- The area between the back timing cover and the block should be inspected for oil and/or coolant. The presence of oil can indicate a leaking front crankshaft seal or leaking balance shaft seal. The presence of water normally indicates a leaking water pump although it can also indicate a leaking head gasket.
- Inspect the area around the oil filter housing. You may find some oil in this area. It is extremely difficult to change the oil filter without spilling some oil. However, the oil pressure sensor and filter housing itself can also be a source of oil leakage.
- Inspect the power steering pump, hoses, and power steering rack for leakage. The hose from the fluid reservoir to the pump is a common source of leakage. Sometimes tightening the clamp will stop the leakage. Do not tighten excessively as the reservoir is plastic and you can crack the nozzle. A leaking hose may not seem like a big deal, but one hose on a 944 can cost you $150-200 (not including labor).
- Inspect the exhaust manifolds for cracks or signs of leakage (i.e. soot from the exhaust on engine or suspension parts). The exhaust manifolds are expensive to replace even if you can find them in a salvage yard.
- Inspect the balance shaft housing covers for leakage. Repairing leaks here are not that difficult, but require a lot of time and can consequently cost a lot of money.
- While the price of 944 motor mounts has come down in recent years, they are still around $150-200 a pair. You'll normally get charged around four hours labor for replacement. The 944 FAQ details a good method for checking the motor mounts.
- A number of heat shield are used to protect various components underneath the car. It's a good idea to have someone check the car that is familiar enough with 944s to identify if any heat shields are missing. One of the most important components protected by a heat shield is the starter. It can fail in a short period of time if its heat shield is missing.
- Check for a leaking oil pan gasket.
- Inspect the tie rod ends and ball joints for cracked or missing protective boots. The ball joints are not replaceable on later model 944s. The control arms must be replaced ($$) or rebuilt.
- Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for leakage.
- If the car is equipped with an external oil cooler (to the right of the radiator), inspect the cooler and oil lines for leaks.
- Check all coolant lines for leakage. On Normally Aspirated and Turbocharged cars equipped with the turbo water pump, the plastic nozzle on the front of the pump (blank nozzle) has an o-ring which is a common source of coolant leakage.
- Check the coolant in the reservoir. A brown frothy mixture in the reservoir usually indicates oil and water mixing in the oil filter/cooler housing. Many people are under the mistaken impression that this can not happen with the turbocharged cars since they have an external oil cooler. While it is not as common, it can an does occur.
- Inspect for oil leakage at the back of the camshaft housing near the firewall. The rear cam housing cover plate uses a cork gasket which is a common source of leakage.
- Inspect the area around the distributor housing. There are several oil seals in the housing that can be a source of leakage.
- Inspect the fuel lines going to the fuel rail for brittleness or cracking. These have been the subject of several recalls and the source of a number of engine fires.
- Inspect the plug wires for brittleness or cracking.
- Check the transaxle half shafts for excessive play. There will be some play along the axis of the shaft, but there should be little or no play perpendicular to the axis of the shaft.
- The car should have a steady idle between 900 and 1000 rpm. A high, low, or hunting idle can indicate (but is not limited to) a sticking idle stabilizer valve.
- With the engine cold, the oil pressure should read between 4 and 5 bar at idle. As the engine temperature increases, the oil pressure will gradually decrease to around 2 bar. It may go slightly less than 2 bar on a very hot day or when the car is driven very hard. However, it should never decrease to less than 1 bar. A low oil pressure at all temperatures can be indicative of a sticking oil pressure relief valve and can result in oil starvation and bearing damage. If a low oil pressure is indicated, the engine should not be run until the cause has been determined and corrected. A high oil pressure which never decreases to less than 4 bar is normally caused by a faulty oil pressure sending unit.
- Engine coolant temperature should normally read between the second and third white marks. Temperatures consistently at or above the second white mark should be investigated and corrected.
- A clicking noise under the hood with the car running is normal. This is the injectors firing. However, valve train noise is sometimes masked by the injectors firing. Use a mechanics stethoscope if you have any doubts about the difference between injector and valve noise.
- Engine vibration at idle can indicate bad motor mounts or incorrectly installed balance shaft belt. Vibration from bad motor mounts will usually disappear when the engine speed is increase to around 1500 rpm.
- With the engine running, it's a good time to listen for leaks at the exhaust manifolds. A piece of garden hose or other hose can be used like a stethoscope to pinpoint suspected leaks.
- Vibrations experienced while driving on the road can be indicative of a number of problems. Some of them include alignment problems, tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar bushings, and tire imbalance or abnormal wear.
- At maximum boost, an unmodified, turbocharged car should produce approximately 1.7 - 1.75 bar of boost.
- Clicking in the rear end while driving, especially during cornering, normally indicates a problem with the CV joints. It can also indicate a problem with the wheel bearings or transaxle itself. CV joint noise can sometimes be corrected by repacking the CV joint/boot.
ccampbell84
New member
Ruddy hell, forgot to ask the main question!
The HPI through up a colour change alert, and the data held for the car in the V5 etc. is Gold. The car is Zermatt Silver. In 1993 the previous owner recorded the car as Gold which has been thrown up in the HPI check. I'm confident it hasn't been resprayed as the Porsche option sticker is intact in the usual place. But is this an unusual/dodgy situation? also in the V5 the car is a '944 / S2 Cabrio' but 'Body style: Coupe'. Is this normal with S2s?
Thanks again
The HPI through up a colour change alert, and the data held for the car in the V5 etc. is Gold. The car is Zermatt Silver. In 1993 the previous owner recorded the car as Gold which has been thrown up in the HPI check. I'm confident it hasn't been resprayed as the Porsche option sticker is intact in the usual place. But is this an unusual/dodgy situation? also in the V5 the car is a '944 / S2 Cabrio' but 'Body style: Coupe'. Is this normal with S2s?
Thanks again
DavidL
Active member
Is it this one?
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/770120.htm
Zermatt is a funny colour and may well have been described as gold. It depends how clued up the person filling in the forms was! There are Zermatt cars on here - in fact there is a colour thread somewhere - sticky 3rd from top. Have a hunt through. This may not be a problem.
Discs, ARB bushes and brake pipe are not expensive to fix. Dampers rather depends on what needs to be changed. It sounds as though it is not the damper unit per se which may be easier.
Why you would put S badges on an S2 baffles me. Take them off. There aren't S2 ones except on the boot.
I think Ripspeed tend to be a bit MAxpower but I could be wrong. It depends who makes and designs their exhausts. It may actually reduce power not enhance it. Is it just the rear box or the whole system.
Boot lid may need a bit of adjustment - pins or hatch seal may help pop it up. Don't be surprised if it only unlatches and you need to lift it. Lots don't spring up as the literature suggests. I think it was a bit of a design malady. Neither of mine do/did.
If in any doubt walk away as there are lots of good cars going at good prices privately. He is a dealer so will want/need to be making something out of it.
David
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/770120.htm
Zermatt is a funny colour and may well have been described as gold. It depends how clued up the person filling in the forms was! There are Zermatt cars on here - in fact there is a colour thread somewhere - sticky 3rd from top. Have a hunt through. This may not be a problem.
Discs, ARB bushes and brake pipe are not expensive to fix. Dampers rather depends on what needs to be changed. It sounds as though it is not the damper unit per se which may be easier.
Why you would put S badges on an S2 baffles me. Take them off. There aren't S2 ones except on the boot.
I think Ripspeed tend to be a bit MAxpower but I could be wrong. It depends who makes and designs their exhausts. It may actually reduce power not enhance it. Is it just the rear box or the whole system.
Boot lid may need a bit of adjustment - pins or hatch seal may help pop it up. Don't be surprised if it only unlatches and you need to lift it. Lots don't spring up as the literature suggests. I think it was a bit of a design malady. Neither of mine do/did.
If in any doubt walk away as there are lots of good cars going at good prices privately. He is a dealer so will want/need to be making something out of it.
David
The colour thing is just because Zermatt silver is in fact a pale gold so nothing to worry about.
The cabrio/coupe thing is a bit more of a concern. DVLC (at the time) would have registered the car as a Porsche 944 Noddy Special had the dealer written that on the form, but coupe/cabrio is a bit of a mistake to make but I'm also unsure if it hints at something dodgy.
16 Ventilier is more typically a badge from a 944S, but I think it may have been an option on the S2 also - as I'm sure you know it just means 16 valves so it is applicable. That's all assuming it's the Porsche one that is embossed on the side bump strip?
Momo sill sticker - you mean in the door shut. Yeuk! There was no standard sticker or protector plate in there at all however, so just taking it off and cleaning up the adhesive would put it back to standard.
To my mind nothing of any value has a Ripspeed badge. It's just Halfords chavving range. Throw it away and put a Danske on in its place.
Rear disks are not major, though they have the drum for the handbrake in the middle so not as cheap as some disks. I honestly couldn't tell you how much, but don't buy Zimmermann, get literally any other brand.
Rear brake pipes are a bit of a pain as they go over the axle. More of a concern is that if they are going then probably the fuel line is as well and your choice there is quite an expensive repair or a patch up (some would say a lash up). By expensive I mean £200 for parts plus labour to drop the axle. Call it £400-£600 I'd guess, especially including the brake lines.
ARB bush is nothing.
I'm guessing by the other two advisories they mean top mounts (shame MoT testers can't use the same names for things everyone else does). Top mounts are stupid expensive from Porsche (circa £200 each) plus fitting and alignment afterwards. You can get alternatives but you need to make sure the ones you get have the same 2" bowl in them as OE as falt ones will jack the front of the car up in a most unappealing way. You still need to fit them (reasonably easy DIY with spring compressors) and get it all aligned (pro job I'd say if you want it done right). It's a "while you're in there" repair though in that you might want to replace a lot of other suspension bits while it's apart to save redoing the alignment and it could easily get over a bag of sand if you do the whole thing.
Two other comments - an S2 is a totally different animal to a Turbo. Ask yourself what you want the 944 for. As a road car to drive as standard the S2 will be better but if you think you might want to modify then a Turbo is the way to go. Check S2 buying info, specifically relating to the cams before you commit.
Over on the TiPEC forum the car you were originally going to buy has a thread and someone posted very negative experience of the dealer in it. I know you were advised against before and went ahead, but I'd seriously consider looking for an enthusuast owned car from a private seller if I were you. I had thought it bode badly that you hadn't posted since saying you'd decided to buy the Turbo and I think you had a lucky escape. I'd fear the S2 might end badly also.
The cabrio/coupe thing is a bit more of a concern. DVLC (at the time) would have registered the car as a Porsche 944 Noddy Special had the dealer written that on the form, but coupe/cabrio is a bit of a mistake to make but I'm also unsure if it hints at something dodgy.
16 Ventilier is more typically a badge from a 944S, but I think it may have been an option on the S2 also - as I'm sure you know it just means 16 valves so it is applicable. That's all assuming it's the Porsche one that is embossed on the side bump strip?
Momo sill sticker - you mean in the door shut. Yeuk! There was no standard sticker or protector plate in there at all however, so just taking it off and cleaning up the adhesive would put it back to standard.
To my mind nothing of any value has a Ripspeed badge. It's just Halfords chavving range. Throw it away and put a Danske on in its place.
Rear disks are not major, though they have the drum for the handbrake in the middle so not as cheap as some disks. I honestly couldn't tell you how much, but don't buy Zimmermann, get literally any other brand.
Rear brake pipes are a bit of a pain as they go over the axle. More of a concern is that if they are going then probably the fuel line is as well and your choice there is quite an expensive repair or a patch up (some would say a lash up). By expensive I mean £200 for parts plus labour to drop the axle. Call it £400-£600 I'd guess, especially including the brake lines.
ARB bush is nothing.
I'm guessing by the other two advisories they mean top mounts (shame MoT testers can't use the same names for things everyone else does). Top mounts are stupid expensive from Porsche (circa £200 each) plus fitting and alignment afterwards. You can get alternatives but you need to make sure the ones you get have the same 2" bowl in them as OE as falt ones will jack the front of the car up in a most unappealing way. You still need to fit them (reasonably easy DIY with spring compressors) and get it all aligned (pro job I'd say if you want it done right). It's a "while you're in there" repair though in that you might want to replace a lot of other suspension bits while it's apart to save redoing the alignment and it could easily get over a bag of sand if you do the whole thing.
Two other comments - an S2 is a totally different animal to a Turbo. Ask yourself what you want the 944 for. As a road car to drive as standard the S2 will be better but if you think you might want to modify then a Turbo is the way to go. Check S2 buying info, specifically relating to the cams before you commit.
Over on the TiPEC forum the car you were originally going to buy has a thread and someone posted very negative experience of the dealer in it. I know you were advised against before and went ahead, but I'd seriously consider looking for an enthusuast owned car from a private seller if I were you. I had thought it bode badly that you hadn't posted since saying you'd decided to buy the Turbo and I think you had a lucky escape. I'd fear the S2 might end badly also.
Oh, tailgate! Replace the struts and adjust the catches and it should spring open on the button - a new rubber seal to give it a push would help as well. You might need to replace the pins if they are worn, but that is ususally to resolve opening when you don't want it to, not staying closed when you want it open. None of that is especially costly.
Having seen the ad I'd say 16 Ventilier will definitely have been because it was an early S2 and apparently a press or promo car.
Non-functioning air-con. The guy is a dealer, if it was an easy fix he'd fix it. Expect ££££. It's a pig of a system to get working on modern gas and that just goes double if it's been broken for a long time.
It looks nice enough, but the rear badge is on wrong so it's been replaced for some reason. Why would a 76k genuine miles nice car have had the rear badge replaced? I can't think of any reasons that are good... A 'Ring sticker is always a bonus on a used car. Not. I have one on my Mini, but it would be taken off before trying to sell it in the UK, just as the ones on my 964 were.
Is 76k realsitsic? They are super-easy cars to clock. Even if it is that isn't a good thing necessarily and the mistake on the HPI data could knock any value the low miles might add in the eyes of people who think mileage is the be-all and end-all.
The car is all the money. Find a realistic and motivated private enthusiast seller and you'd get any S2 in the country for £4,500 these days. It might be worth a punt with a sticker starting with a 2, but at that price I think you should keep looking.
Non-functioning air-con. The guy is a dealer, if it was an easy fix he'd fix it. Expect ££££. It's a pig of a system to get working on modern gas and that just goes double if it's been broken for a long time.
It looks nice enough, but the rear badge is on wrong so it's been replaced for some reason. Why would a 76k genuine miles nice car have had the rear badge replaced? I can't think of any reasons that are good... A 'Ring sticker is always a bonus on a used car. Not. I have one on my Mini, but it would be taken off before trying to sell it in the UK, just as the ones on my 964 were.
Is 76k realsitsic? They are super-easy cars to clock. Even if it is that isn't a good thing necessarily and the mistake on the HPI data could knock any value the low miles might add in the eyes of people who think mileage is the be-all and end-all.
The car is all the money. Find a realistic and motivated private enthusiast seller and you'd get any S2 in the country for £4,500 these days. It might be worth a punt with a sticker starting with a 2, but at that price I think you should keep looking.
ccampbell84
New member
Thanks guys, for the swift responses. That is indeed the car in question. The old MOTs verify the miles so I'm confident it's not been clocked. Whats wrong with the S2 badge? I know most S2s have the horizontal type, but I have seen that 'vertical' type before, just assumed it was an early S2 thing.
Momo door entry sills look like they've been screwed on!
Momo door entry sills look like they've been screwed on!
pauljmcnulty
Active member
What Fen said.....[&:]
There's either a really good car there, worth every penny and being sold by a muppet. Or, there's a truly average S2 with some real question marks being sold for a huge profit.
As always, check (there's no mention) the following: Cills, front wing bottom edges for rust. Clutch? With that mileage it's either due or been done. Belts? 4k miles, but when? Time is as important as mileage.
I don't know. I'd not rule out making an offer if everything else stacks up but I'd be wary of thinking this is a better car just because it's from a car dealer. [8|]
There's either a really good car there, worth every penny and being sold by a muppet. Or, there's a truly average S2 with some real question marks being sold for a huge profit.
As always, check (there's no mention) the following: Cills, front wing bottom edges for rust. Clutch? With that mileage it's either due or been done. Belts? 4k miles, but when? Time is as important as mileage.
I don't know. I'd not rule out making an offer if everything else stacks up but I'd be wary of thinking this is a better car just because it's from a car dealer. [8|]
George Elliott
New member
CC, I agree the resp' above, and would add that IMO the Turbo S was a nicer car even if it needed a gearbox. The price for either of them starts with a 2 in Autumn 2008.
They are like chalk and cheese, you can explain what a good car the S2 is, but you won't be grinning. With the 951 S you will be unable to find words because in a way there are'nt any to express what these old nails can do so well.
I will even say I really like the old S, even the colour is unusual/nice/different, but I accept I have not seen it.
Good luck with your search, - dont come home without an intercooler...! [
]
George
944t
964
They are like chalk and cheese, you can explain what a good car the S2 is, but you won't be grinning. With the 951 S you will be unable to find words because in a way there are'nt any to express what these old nails can do so well.
I will even say I really like the old S, even the colour is unusual/nice/different, but I accept I have not seen it.
Good luck with your search, - dont come home without an intercooler...! [
]George
944t
964
George Elliott
New member
I think I can see the body-shop YTS lads finger prints.
George
944T
964
George
944T
964
I just had a look to see what else is available and the first was this http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/768388.htm
I'm going a wee bit OT here, but are the photos and descriptions the same car? It supposedly has extended leather when I can't see any leather at all in that car bar the steering wheel and gear gaiter. It also claims 10 speaker stereo when I can clearly see an empty door pocket and standard front speakers. Do people just make up options their car supposedly has these days? To be fair it might be quite a nice one, but the description is massively incorrect. Once more I think the badge is wrong - this time too close to the seam in the body.
Then we have this one http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/637677.htm. Nice to see Specialist Cars of Malton still have a sense of humour when it comes to valuations. Some things never change! Again the badge is wrong and I'd bet a fair wad of cash it's actually Alpine white, not GP.
This one is a bit more realistically priced and at least has sports seats http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/698036.htm. possibly the mileage might not be correct though []
How about this one as it's local? http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/697332.htm
I'm going a wee bit OT here, but are the photos and descriptions the same car? It supposedly has extended leather when I can't see any leather at all in that car bar the steering wheel and gear gaiter. It also claims 10 speaker stereo when I can clearly see an empty door pocket and standard front speakers. Do people just make up options their car supposedly has these days? To be fair it might be quite a nice one, but the description is massively incorrect. Once more I think the badge is wrong - this time too close to the seam in the body.
Then we have this one http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/637677.htm. Nice to see Specialist Cars of Malton still have a sense of humour when it comes to valuations. Some things never change! Again the badge is wrong and I'd bet a fair wad of cash it's actually Alpine white, not GP.
This one is a bit more realistically priced and at least has sports seats http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/698036.htm. possibly the mileage might not be correct though [
]How about this one as it's local? http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/697332.htm
ccampbell84
New member
The S2 badges on this one look weird too? [URL=http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/737349.htm]http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/737349.htm[/url]
Yeah disappointed about the Turbo, the S2 felt brisk though...
Yeah disappointed about the Turbo, the S2 felt brisk though...
ccampbell84
New member
haha, what do you mean by that?
944 man
Active member
With regards to the 250 that needed a gearbox. Sticking in gear , usually described as a selector problem, is a common fault found in cars that have had a damned good crash, so you might have had a close call there. Its not actually that expensive to fix and it only needs a small part out of another scrap transaxle.
My evil comment was not complimentary. It's mainly directed at the badging (for which there is little excuse) and the "living in the Eighties" interior.
I agree with Pauly about the MoTs by the way. A savvy owner might give the car a trim once a year to keep apparent the mileage down and possibly to keep within a limited mileage insurance policy. Provided they aren't ham-fisted taking the dash apart or adjusting the rollers in the odometer then I'd suggest it's totally undetectable and could amount to quite a significant haircut.
My first 911 was low miles and still new enough to be dealer serviced at the time. There was a blob of blu tack on the back of the speedo to hold the wire in a handy place while it was unplugged, which was (somewhat embarrassingly) found by a prospective buyer of the car. I pretty much ignore mileage these days because of things like that, and have a good chuckle when people put so much stock in it. Everything about cars and the motor trade is more often than not shonky in my experience, right from prestige marque main dealer down to bottom feeder.
Anyway the bottom line is it's your money Mr OP, but my advice would be to avoid this dealer and treat anything they have for sale as suspect.
I agree with Pauly about the MoTs by the way. A savvy owner might give the car a trim once a year to keep apparent the mileage down and possibly to keep within a limited mileage insurance policy. Provided they aren't ham-fisted taking the dash apart or adjusting the rollers in the odometer then I'd suggest it's totally undetectable and could amount to quite a significant haircut.
My first 911 was low miles and still new enough to be dealer serviced at the time. There was a blob of blu tack on the back of the speedo to hold the wire in a handy place while it was unplugged, which was (somewhat embarrassingly) found by a prospective buyer of the car. I pretty much ignore mileage these days because of things like that, and have a good chuckle when people put so much stock in it. Everything about cars and the motor trade is more often than not shonky in my experience, right from prestige marque main dealer down to bottom feeder.
Anyway the bottom line is it's your money Mr OP, but my advice would be to avoid this dealer and treat anything they have for sale as suspect.
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