944 Turbo SE - Tuning Help !!!

[Eldavo]

ORIGINAL: Totty

Well fingers crossed, I will be asking Tom Ferguson to give it the once over before i ask him to install the bolt on's []

http://www.tomferguson.com/index.html?setwindow=s

I apprecitate all advise & comments as i don't want to make any mistakes with my pride & joy !!!

Tom Fergusons, why not do it yourself. I wasn't impressed by them when I discussed my 944 and their prices were practically the same as OPCs once PCGB discount was applied n

 

[TTM]

One of my "944 mates" has an old 106 XSi in blue which he had bought new and used daily until a couple of years ago, I remember more than a couple of heart-in-mouth moments in it []
He says the differential on these gearboxes is rubbish, he had the gearbox replaced twice under warranty and the third time he ended up brazing the crown wheel on the diff.

 

[9212PT]

I don't really trust myself doing the work Eldavo, not sure on everything that's involved, & my mothers known Tom all her life plus my general manager also knows him so fingers crossed I'll get a good rate !!!

TTM it's such a small world when it comes to cars, it's great to hear you've also had some great times in the little XSI's, they'll keep up with anything on the twisty country lanes []

Strange you should mention the gearbox though, as it's getting harder to get the gears at the minute, the clutch bearing was noise when i bought the car but was fine on selecting a gear, not sure on the box in mine thought as I'm sure i recall the previous owner saying the box was out of a 1.4 Quicksliver !!!

Cheers []

 

[Diver944]

ORIGINAL: Totty

So what i'm thinking now is order mods.

Bailey hose kit, Bailey dump valve, FPR, Tial WG & then a remap ?

Don't install a 3 bar FPR without having a remap or the chips to suit it. Fitting a 3 bar FPR by itself will just make you run rich everywhere and run the risk of getting borewash in your engine []

Get the car checked over before you do anything - compression and leakdown tests and maybe even a new headgasket if its still the original one. For all you know your car may already be 40bhp down due to faults you don't know about

 

[barks944]

ORIGINAL: Diver944

ORIGINAL: Totty

So what i'm thinking now is order mods.

Bailey hose kit, Bailey dump valve, FPR, Tial WG & then a remap ?

Don't install a 3 bar FPR without having a remap or the chips to suit it. Fitting a 3 bar FPR by itself will just make you run rich everywhere and run the risk of getting borewash in your engine []

Get the car checked over before you do anything - compression and leakdown tests and maybe even a new headgasket if its still the original one. For all you know your car may already be 40bhp down due to faults you don't know about

This is the way to go!

 

[9212PT]

Right, i'v now got all my parts, what is the best order to fit them in, I have just fitted the induction cone filter tonight !!! []

 

[edh]

Where did the cone filter appear from?

You may be reducing bhp at the moment - most of these cone filters replace the airbox & suck hot air from behind the rad. Stick with the standard airbox unless you change to MAF

Unless you are spending big money, the upgrades worth having are Tial 38mm DPW, MBC, FPR and decent chipset. Anything else is marginal until you start going after big hp and changing turbos etc.. 300hp is plenty.

The above assumes you have a robust diverter valve, vac lines, engine & cooling system as everyone else has said. You will find plenty to spend your money on, don't worry...

FWIW I think Tom Ferguson looked after the 944 turbos that were used as demo cars at Croft, so I'm sure he'll know what goes wrong. They also run (ran?) some high powered pulsars, so are experienced with unreliable turbo cars

 

[9212PT]

The list of parts i have got to fit are listed below, so i'm trying to work through the fitment process, of which comes first before i then have to take a trip to see Wayne Schofield for the remap ?

Vacuum kit with brass connections
Intake boot
33mm Dual Port Wastegate
Dump valve
Induction kit
Boost improver
Breather kit including oil catch can, breather filter and fittings
Replace air flow meter
55lb fuel injectors
Fuel regulator.

Cheers

 

[Lowtimer]

If you are fitting a dual port wastegate then you have no use for a boost improver. It is either / or.

 

[9212PT]

ORIGINAL: Lowtimer

If you are fitting a dual port wastegate then you have no use for a boost improver. It is either / or.

Yeah i know, cheers, it was just in the package of parts when purchased, no doubt i will list the boost improver on eBay.

Thanks.

 

[944 man]

Why alter the injectors? How many CCs per minute does 55lbs equate to? Changing the fuel pressure regulator and the injectors is a recipe for engine failure.

 

[Lowtimer]

That's true if you don;t change the mapping. 55 lb injectors are not really needed below about 310 bhp, but will be fine providing the mapping is done right. I have a 3 bar FPR and 55 lb injectors even though I am only running around 15 psi and the car is smooth and economical and running with good mixtures. The current Promax chipset accommodates that combination when it is told to via the dip switch settings. It means I have plenty of headroom to turn the wick up if I want to and nothing is running near its limits at my current power setting,

What you can't do is bolt on the 3.0 bar FPR and the big injectors and then drive it on the standard chips somewhere to be remapped.

 

[9212PT]

ORIGINAL: Lowtimer

That's true if you don;t change the mapping. 55 lb injectors are not really needed below about 310 bhp, but will be fine providing the mapping is done right. I have a 3 bar FPR and 55 lb injectors even though I am only running around 15 psi and the car is smooth and economical and running with good mixtures. The current Promax chipset accommodates that combination when it is told to via the dip switch settings. It means I have plenty of headroom to turn the wick up if I want to and nothing is running near its limits at my current power setting,

What you can't do is bolt on the 3.0 bar FPR and the big injectors and then drive it on the standard chips somewhere to be remapped.

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Yes Lowtimer, thanks very much, finaly the answer i am looking for, what parts out of my list i have purchased can be fitted before the remap & what will i need to leave in the boot for the trip to Rochdale ?

 

[Lowtimer]

I don;t know the answer to that, so take all this with a large pinch of salt. But at a guess, assuming the AFM is a direct factory replacement, you could do the AFM and the dump valve and change all the boost circuit plumbing. The wastegate is probably capable of operating as a single port or dual port, so if you left the factory cycling valve alone you could probably physically change the wastegate, but to run it as a dual port you will need a separate boost controller, which is something you haven't mentioned. If you did that, ditching the cycling valve, and left the boost controller turned right down, and when you started the engine it seemed to run all right without lots of smoke or soot, and you kept it below 3000 rpm and determinedly off-boost, then maybe it would be OK to drive a short distance. Personally I wouldn't do it without some way of measuring the air-fuel ratios but it is a liquid-cooled engine and if you keep it developing less that about 70 bhp, which is enough to get down the road and cruise at 60 or 65 and cope with gentle hills, I don't think it will be developing enough heat to get into detonation or do any lasting damage. You might want to take a new set of correctly-gapped plugs with you.

I would leave the induction kit out of it, because I don't really believe in them unless you are chopping the front end about and building a lot of ducting to force-feed the thing with cold air.

Would probably be better to take advice from Wayne though.

 

[9212PT]

ORIGINAL: Lowtimer

I don;t know the answer to that, so take all this with a large pinch of salt.  But at a guess, assuming the AFM is a direct factory replacement, you could do the AFM and the dump valve and change all the boost circuit plumbing. The wastegate is probably capable of operating as a single port or dual port, so if you left the factory cycling valve alone you could probably physically change the wastegate, but to run it as a dual port you will need a separate boost controller, which is something you haven't mentioned. If you did that, ditching the cycling valve, and left the boost controller turned right down, and when you started the engine it seemed to run all right without lots of smoke or soot, and you kept it below 3000 rpm and determinedly off-boost, then maybe it would be OK to drive a short distance. Personally I wouldn't do it without some way of measuring the air-fuel ratios but it is a liquid-cooled engine and if you keep it developing less that about 70 bhp, which is enough to get down the road and cruise at 60 or 65 and cope with gentle hills, I don't think it will be developing enough heat to get into detonation or do any lasting damage. You might want to take a new set of correctly-gapped plugs with you.

I would leave the induction kit out of it, because I don't really believe in them unless you are chopping the front end about and building a lot of ducting to force-feed the thing with cold air.

Would probably be better to take advice from Wayne though.

Ok thanks for that, I will speak to Wayne, if he ever returns my call. []

 

[edh]

What are you replacing the AFM with?

 

[Lowtimer]

I assumed it was with another AFM. Original one worn out and a new one to go on. If it is some sort of MAF conversion then I'm way out of my depth.

 

[9212PT]

Still using standard AFM, with JM Garage cone filter, Can the AFM be realined to sit behind the n/s headlight where the original airflow pipe goes into the wing, as i seem to have seen this on a few other cars ?

Cheers

 

[GPF]

How are you planning on controlling boost?

 

[9212PT]

ORIGINAL: GPF

How are you planning on controlling boost?

Apexi avcr boost controller.

Cheers