Menu toggle

944S2 Brembo front caliper rebuild

nick3814

New member
I'm going to rebuild my front calipers shortly, I contacted Newcastle OPC this afternoon and asked for a seal kit to do this, all they had listed was a gasket kit for about £40 a caliper, wasn't sure this was what I needed and neither where they? Anyone know any different?

I've done loads of searches and I'm struggling to find any other sources for these kits, I would appreciate any advice from anyone else whos done their's.

Cheers
 
Rick had a list of the parts and cost on his site, IIRC

I've always been under the impression that a PC were the best place to get these, might be worth trying Exeter?
 
Nick,
The kits contain 1 piston + 2 seals... Youl need 4 kits per caliper... Last time i bought some they were around £16 per kit....
You also have 2 different sizes of piston...on the same caliper.
Do you have a PET program.?? If so you can find out the sizes from that...
There is also the plate + bolt kit... youl need 2 of these per caliper.. Unless you can get just the small bolts, [The plates are usually OK + can be reused..].I got some from a bolt supplier close to me.. In stainless...
 
Would you recommend renewing the seals on all the pistons? I know there is one piston on each caliper where the dust seal is split and the piston was stiff when I fitted new pads, I think it is these that are causing the new pads to bind a bit.

Would you just replace the seals that are damaged and remove the plates and clean them up?
 
ORIGINAL: Big Dave UK
Unless you can get just the small bolts, [The plates are usually OK + can be reused..].I got some from a bolt supplier close to me.. In stainless...
The bolts are standard-thread M6 affairs.

A STRONG recommendation is to do them in stainless, as Big Dave said. You don't need to get the cap-head ones either - normal headed bolts will fit just fine, with a very small amount of filing on one of the corners of the head. Not only are these bolts cheaper, but they are much easier to get a purchase on when you come to take them out next time!

When you have the calipers in bits then it is worth coating the plates and the calipers themselves with a thick layer of some solid paint (smoothrite in my case) as this will keep them corrosion-free for years to come. (The reason they rot so badly is due to electrolytic corrosion from having dissimilar metals in contact, when bathed in salt solution and other rubbish from our roads. Keeping the metals apart therefore makes them last a LOT longer. I did once think about designing a sacrifical anode to extend their life even further but somehow never got very far with the plan.)


Oli.
 
ORIGINAL: nick3814

Would you recommend renewing the seals on all the pistons? I know there is one piston on each caliper where the dust seal is split and the piston was stiff when I fitted new pads, I think it is these that are causing the new pads to bind a bit.

Would you just replace the seals that are damaged and remove the plates and clean them up?

Personally i would totaly dissmantle the whole caliper. IE remove the pistons , with a compresed air "blow"gun. Check all the seals + replace as necessary...If some of the dust seals have gone , i suspect the piston will be corroded , meaning a replacement, dont be tempted to try + remove the corrosion from the piston with "wet + dry paper" its usually to far gone for that...
Oh i hope you manage to get the plate screws out OK as they are renound to being stubborn...
There is a how to somewhere, but just where.????
 
Just a quick heads up on seal kits etc. I was in GPR a couple of weeks back buying a seat. They are back in business and can supply the brembo servicing kits as before, however I was informed that in the future the business is to be more focused on clothing etc. and less on car hardware so I suspect that at some point not far from now the GPR route will be gone.
 
I got seals for my brembo callipers from Zeckhausen racing in the states. I would, as said completely dismantle the caliper and inspect all the pistons. The pistons have to be in near perfect condition as the seals sit in the caliper bores and the sides of the cast ali pistons slide on these seals.

The bolts that hold the stainles plates in can be a bugger to remove (I don;t usually swear!), I had to file a flat on them and use heat (blow lamp) followed by Irwin Bolt grips which are small enough to get in the space in the calliper, have reverse spiral flutes that grip the bolts provided there is a flat there for them to grip to and have a hexagon that enables you to get a big spanner and some leverage to move the old bolts. I use stainless steel and lock and seal in the threads when the new bolts go in.
040214679.jpg


Other than that, clean off all corrosion, paint, then use copperslip and extra protection between the plates and caliper body.
 
John

Would these Irwin jobbies be equally adept at removing a rounded off bleed nipple. I have new bleed nipples waiting, but I want to make sure I extract the old rounded off ones properly, without them snapping[:eek:]

Cheers

James
 
James,

I've never snapped a bleed nipple in my life ... apply some penetrant spray before doing the job, then go for a cup of tea.

When you return, tap the end of the bleed nipple very gently with a small hammer to wake it up, and apply even force to get it undone. A small ring spanner is ideal for this as it will enable you to apply the torque as close to the point where it enters the caliper as possible.

You'll be fine.


Oli.

ETA: Just noticed you mentioned "rounded". Sorry. Ignore all I said above. Is it badly rounded? On all faces? If not, a ring spanner may yet be your friend.
 

Well here's my before and after.

Caliper shot blast and powder coat £30
Seals and bleed nipples from GPR
Stainless button heads from stagonset

Soak seals in conditioning fluid before installation £5

I know I will get slated for the EBC reds but I sent an email off to EBC asking if they were as bad as everyone said. Of course they said no and sent me a set of fronts and rears foc. I liked the idea of minimal dust - sorry!!





Caliperbefore.jpg


Caliperrefurbed.jpg

 
Whats the easiest way of getting the pistons out in the first place? It strikes me that once you have one piston removed you wouldn't be able to use compressed air to remove the rest as its not sealed anymore!! Any advice please.

Cheers
 
Compressed air, but be careful as they come out like a bullet and would take your fingers off.
Once one is out hold it slightly in with a piece of wood etc and move on to the next etc.

Rich
 
ORIGINAL: zcacogp

James,

I've never snapped a bleed nipple in my life ... apply some penetrant spray before doing the job, then go for a cup of tea.

When you return, tap the end of the bleed nipple very gently with a small hammer to wake it up, and apply even force to get it undone. A small ring spanner is ideal for this as it will enable you to apply the torque as close to the point where it enters the caliper as possible.

You'll be fine.


Oli.

ETA: Just noticed you mentioned "rounded". Sorry. Ignore all I said above. Is it badly rounded? On all faces? If not, a ring spanner may yet be your friend.

Same here, never broken a bleed nipple yet. It helps to have decent tools- get yourself am 11mm (also 7/16"- so works for brit classics too) brake spanner, this is a very thick ring spanner with a slot in it. This is where you need to spend on a decent tool. Also- heat the nipples with blow torch and spray with penetrating spray (plus gas etc).
 
ORIGINAL: morris944s2john

Same here, never broken a bleed nipple yet. It helps to have decent tools- get yourself am 11mm (also 7/16"- so works for brit classics too) brake spanner, this is a very thick ring spanner with a slot in it. This is where you need to spend on a decent tool. Also- heat the nipples with blow torch and spray with penetrating spray (plus gas etc).

Chaps

Thanks for your positive suggestions. But.... I already have a decent brake spanner, shown below along side my new bleed nipple and I used plenty of PlusGas, and the short sharp tap technique but to no avail when I did it last. IIRC correctly this was also the day I changed my lower arms, so I think they rounded off and I just bled them from the other nipple, rather than struggle for ages Not ideal, but better than nothing. Plus two of the four that had rounded off were thanks to a previous owner, so you can't blame me for them [:D]. Heat I didn't try though, so that'll be next.

A0F1BB73DE2740488A5B162F1F718B0C.jpg
 
I've done a number of 944 Lux caliper recons ('84 cars that had had the same caliper on for 23 years...) and the pistons have always been fine (ok, a little surface rust that came away immediately with a little steel wool and oil). Are Brembo pistons that bad for rusting?
Also, you can get way without compressed air by just taking the caliper off and pumping the pedal to get the pistons out far enough to get hold of with pliers and a circular twisting; would this not work for Brembos?
Finally, does Bert not have any piston seal kits? It's where I got mine for the single piston calipers on the luxes.
I've also got a 928S2 so I may find out the answer to all this the hard way eventually...!!

PS For seized bleed nipples I WD40'd, heated them with a propane torch and then used mole grips (I rounded off as well). Replaced with stainless steel bleed nipples (from https://sws1.eclipse.net.uk/www.h-e-l.co.uk/shopbleed.htm IIRC).
 

ORIGINAL: rcsalmons

 
Well here's my before and after.

Caliper shot blast and powder coat £30
Seals and bleed nipples from GPR
Stainless button heads from stagonset

Soak seals in conditioning fluid before installation £5

I know I will get slated for the EBC reds but I sent an email off to EBC asking if they were as bad as everyone said. Of course they said no and sent me a set of fronts and rears foc. I liked the idea of minimal dust - sorry!!





Caliperbefore.jpg


Caliperrefurbed.jpg



Nice job - you might be dissapointed by the reds though, I found them very dusty
 
I have standard Brembos on my 1991 S2, does anyone know what size the pistons will be so I can order the seal kits?

Cheers
 
Got the calipers off this afternoon and managed to remove all 8 pistons with out to much hassle [:D] however the hassle now seems to be getting those little nuts off that hold down the plates [:mad:] what a swine, they are those poxy star drive type, in one hour I got one out, the rest don't seem to want to budge!

I've read the article on Ricks site which suggests heating them up, I don't have access to a blow torch, do any of you lads have any suggestions?? I've just WD40'd them for the time being to see if that helps.
 
Dremel a slot in the bolts and use something like a impact driver with a flat head screwdriver bit in the slots.

I replaced mine with stainless bolts with 'normal' hex heads. They needed a bit of a fettle in places to clear the disc but are so much easier to get off for the annual 'remove the aluminium oxide buildup behind the plates' effort.
 

Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members

Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions

Disclaimer

The opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of the Club, who shall have no liability in respect of them or the accuracy of the content. The Club assumes no responsibility for any effects arising from errors or omissions.

Porsche Club Great Britain gives no warranties, guarantees or assurances and makes no representations or recommendations regarding any goods or services advertised on this site. It is the responsibility of visitors to satisfy themselves that goods and/or services supplied by any advertiser are bona fide and in no instance can the Porsche Club Great Britain be held responsible.

When responding to advertisements please ensure that you satisfy yourself of any applicable call charges on numbers not prefixed by usual "landline" STD Codes. Information can be obtained from the operator or the white pages. Before giving out ANY information regarding cars, or any other items for sale, please satisfy yourself that any potential purchaser is bona fide.

Directors of the Board of Porsche Club GB, Club Office Staff, Register Secretaries and Regional Organisers are often requested by Club members to provide information on matters connected with their cars and other matters referred to in the Club Rules. Such information, advice and assistance provided by such persons is given in good faith and is based on the personal experience and knowledge of the individual concerned.

Neither Porsche Club GB, nor any of the aforementioned, shall be under any liability in respect of any such information, advice or assistance given to members. Members are advised to consult qualified specialists for information, advice and assistance on matters connected with their cars at all times.

Back
Top