Thought it would be useful to us to share some of those handy hints and tips we come across when playing with our RS's.
I'll manage this thread by compiling everyone's tips into this first post to create a resource for owners to refer to when planning jobs.
Add your top tips below...
Smoooooooooooooooth Running RS - poor starting & rough idling fix
The RS has had a little trouble starting-up lately. I thought it was down to the recent colder and damper weather. The engine would start but then the revs would start hunting up and down, then the engine would stall. It always took a few restarts and sitting for 30 seconds trying to keep the revs above 1000rpm to keep the engine running.
I guessed there was an air leak somewhere on the intake side of the engine. So, I systematically tightened every hose clamp and jubilee clip on the intake system. Not too tight so the rubber isn't stressed, just a 1/4 or 1/2 turn on each clamp to take up a few years of slack. Don't forget the clamps where the intake manifolds join with the top of the heads.
The difference is amazing. The car now starts immediately on the turn of the key and settles to a smooth idle straight away. The engine is running a lot smoother and even seems a little quieter at idle - no more hunting, no cutting out, no rough idling and no longer lumpy.
If you're having trouble with a difficult start and rough idle try tightening all those hose clamps before throwing cash at your local specialist. [
]
Changing Rear Engine Lid Struts
Get someone to hold the cover up for you.. a wooden prop is likely to fall off and crack your head or trap your hand. As you remove one stut the other strut won't hold it up.
It also helps to wiggle the engine lid as this helps the pins move more freely out of the struts.
With the nearside one, you might have to take blower off to get at (which is a pain and time consuming). Or you might manage to do it removing only the airbox cover... "quite tough but managed it with long nose pliars, a torch, and a (grumpy) wife to hold up the engine lid cover."
Attach some wire to the end of the clips at the forward end of the struts before sliding them off the pins, so you can't drop them!
Jack your RS without damage
Buy a pack of ice hockey pucks and use them between the jack or axle-stands when raising the car to prevent damage to the underside.
Fuel smell when cornering / leaking fuel filler neck
For anybody changing the fuel filler neck to do away with the petrol smell problem - buy a big pair of circlip pliers first.
Did mine at the weekend and those ones with the interchangable heads are just not big enough. I managed to get the circlip off with them and a screwdriver but getting it back on was a real pain. In the end I used a grinding wheel on a large pair of needle nosed pliers. Now I need to buy new pliers as one tip broke off just as I got it back on.
Fuel filler popping up over bumps
If your petrol filler flap keeps popping up when you go over bumps, it is probably that the plastic catch has lost it's elasticity. The part number is 993.201.167.02 (yes, an updated part) and takes about 10 minutes to change. Undo the screw which holds the cable in and then unscrew the catch with a Philips screwdriver.
When you put the new one on, you can adjust the level of the filler flap with the Philips screw to get a good flush closed position for the flap.
Oil around filler neck
Ever suffered from oil around the filler neck ? I know of two cars suffering this, mine and another. Every track day there was oil on the chassis member beneath the oil filler cap.
It was the eagle eyed Paul who noticed a tiny dent in the rim of the filler neck, --- just big enough to evade the seal.
So, the filler neck was manhandled back to shape and the problem was solved.
Garage Queens
Heres a tip: Don't just polish your RS and put it back in the garage. Take it to a track, drive it as hard as you can...then put it back in the garage till next time
Clutch Roll Pin Replacement
Nice write-up thanks to Hugh: h________
First how do you know if you have this problem? Well if you press the clutch pedal, and the slave cylinder shaft doesnt move, likelihood is your roll pin has broken. (you will need the pedal board off to check this.
Part number N 0235511 (mine cost 67p so I bought 2! I felt guilty having the free cup of coffee)
Here's what you do.
1) Remove the floor pan/board (or if you have a RS carpet, well...you can work that bit out.). My floor board is secured by 3 x M5 hex holts
2) Remove the small ball-joint securing clip on the back of the throttle linkage, where it secures to the throttle pivot. To do this, reach behind the pedal, feel down the rod, and flick the clip around, it will now pull up and out.
3) pop the ball joint of the throttle linkage off.
4) Now you can see all 3 screws securing the pedal board (as one is hidden by the accelerator pedal. Unscrew these 3 screws (philips, with washers)
5) Remove pdeal board
6) Remove brake linkage clip, and take linkage off the pivot
7) Remove clutch linkage clip and take linkage off the pivot.
8) Undo 2* 13mm nuts securing clutch master cylinder
9) Pull down the connector for the brake light switch
10) Remove ball joint clip on the throttle -> throttle cable joint, push cable ball joint connector off.
11) Remove 4x 13mm nuts (and washers) that hold assembly to floor pan.
12) Lift assmebly forward and up (to clear studs), if tight remove throttle pedal (2 x 11mm nuts)
With whole assembly on the bench
13) Remove the clip on the clevis pin, that secures the clutch linkage to the clutch spring., and remove clevis pin.
14) Slide clutch pedal assembly out of shaft, and remove spring linkage.
15) Remove reminants of Roll pin, and clean holes.
16) Grease and reinsert clutch pedal mechanism, and attach spring linkage on the end. Align the holes.
17) Tap new roll pin in (A Birmingham Screwdrive may assist here )
18) Ensure roll pin is visible to the same extend from both sides.
19) Assembly is the reverse of removal (Always wanted to put that!)
Its worth cleaning the general area, and regreasing the other bushes on the pedal assembly at the same time. During reassembly, dont forget to ensure that all the clips are put back on correctly. The clutch pedal height can be adjusted by the long screw, with a small (4mm hex bolt) that is secured in the white spring carrier. Be careful not to move the clutch slave cylinder too much when lining backup, as it is attached to a solid pipe.
I'll manage this thread by compiling everyone's tips into this first post to create a resource for owners to refer to when planning jobs.
Add your top tips below...
Smoooooooooooooooth Running RS - poor starting & rough idling fix
The RS has had a little trouble starting-up lately. I thought it was down to the recent colder and damper weather. The engine would start but then the revs would start hunting up and down, then the engine would stall. It always took a few restarts and sitting for 30 seconds trying to keep the revs above 1000rpm to keep the engine running.
I guessed there was an air leak somewhere on the intake side of the engine. So, I systematically tightened every hose clamp and jubilee clip on the intake system. Not too tight so the rubber isn't stressed, just a 1/4 or 1/2 turn on each clamp to take up a few years of slack. Don't forget the clamps where the intake manifolds join with the top of the heads.
The difference is amazing. The car now starts immediately on the turn of the key and settles to a smooth idle straight away. The engine is running a lot smoother and even seems a little quieter at idle - no more hunting, no cutting out, no rough idling and no longer lumpy.
If you're having trouble with a difficult start and rough idle try tightening all those hose clamps before throwing cash at your local specialist. [
]Changing Rear Engine Lid Struts
Get someone to hold the cover up for you.. a wooden prop is likely to fall off and crack your head or trap your hand. As you remove one stut the other strut won't hold it up.
It also helps to wiggle the engine lid as this helps the pins move more freely out of the struts.
With the nearside one, you might have to take blower off to get at (which is a pain and time consuming). Or you might manage to do it removing only the airbox cover... "quite tough but managed it with long nose pliars, a torch, and a (grumpy) wife to hold up the engine lid cover."
Attach some wire to the end of the clips at the forward end of the struts before sliding them off the pins, so you can't drop them!
Jack your RS without damage
Buy a pack of ice hockey pucks and use them between the jack or axle-stands when raising the car to prevent damage to the underside.
Fuel smell when cornering / leaking fuel filler neck
For anybody changing the fuel filler neck to do away with the petrol smell problem - buy a big pair of circlip pliers first.
Did mine at the weekend and those ones with the interchangable heads are just not big enough. I managed to get the circlip off with them and a screwdriver but getting it back on was a real pain. In the end I used a grinding wheel on a large pair of needle nosed pliers. Now I need to buy new pliers as one tip broke off just as I got it back on.
Fuel filler popping up over bumps
If your petrol filler flap keeps popping up when you go over bumps, it is probably that the plastic catch has lost it's elasticity. The part number is 993.201.167.02 (yes, an updated part) and takes about 10 minutes to change. Undo the screw which holds the cable in and then unscrew the catch with a Philips screwdriver.
When you put the new one on, you can adjust the level of the filler flap with the Philips screw to get a good flush closed position for the flap.
Oil around filler neck
Ever suffered from oil around the filler neck ? I know of two cars suffering this, mine and another. Every track day there was oil on the chassis member beneath the oil filler cap.
It was the eagle eyed Paul who noticed a tiny dent in the rim of the filler neck, --- just big enough to evade the seal.
So, the filler neck was manhandled back to shape and the problem was solved.
Garage Queens
Heres a tip: Don't just polish your RS and put it back in the garage. Take it to a track, drive it as hard as you can...then put it back in the garage till next time
Clutch Roll Pin Replacement
Nice write-up thanks to Hugh: h________
First how do you know if you have this problem? Well if you press the clutch pedal, and the slave cylinder shaft doesnt move, likelihood is your roll pin has broken. (you will need the pedal board off to check this.
Part number N 0235511 (mine cost 67p so I bought 2! I felt guilty having the free cup of coffee)
Here's what you do.
1) Remove the floor pan/board (or if you have a RS carpet, well...you can work that bit out.). My floor board is secured by 3 x M5 hex holts
2) Remove the small ball-joint securing clip on the back of the throttle linkage, where it secures to the throttle pivot. To do this, reach behind the pedal, feel down the rod, and flick the clip around, it will now pull up and out.
3) pop the ball joint of the throttle linkage off.
4) Now you can see all 3 screws securing the pedal board (as one is hidden by the accelerator pedal. Unscrew these 3 screws (philips, with washers)
5) Remove pdeal board
6) Remove brake linkage clip, and take linkage off the pivot
7) Remove clutch linkage clip and take linkage off the pivot.
8) Undo 2* 13mm nuts securing clutch master cylinder
9) Pull down the connector for the brake light switch
10) Remove ball joint clip on the throttle -> throttle cable joint, push cable ball joint connector off.
11) Remove 4x 13mm nuts (and washers) that hold assembly to floor pan.
12) Lift assmebly forward and up (to clear studs), if tight remove throttle pedal (2 x 11mm nuts)
With whole assembly on the bench
13) Remove the clip on the clevis pin, that secures the clutch linkage to the clutch spring., and remove clevis pin.
14) Slide clutch pedal assembly out of shaft, and remove spring linkage.
15) Remove reminants of Roll pin, and clean holes.
16) Grease and reinsert clutch pedal mechanism, and attach spring linkage on the end. Align the holes.
17) Tap new roll pin in (A Birmingham Screwdrive may assist here )
18) Ensure roll pin is visible to the same extend from both sides.
19) Assembly is the reverse of removal (Always wanted to put that!)
Its worth cleaning the general area, and regreasing the other bushes on the pedal assembly at the same time. During reassembly, dont forget to ensure that all the clips are put back on correctly. The clutch pedal height can be adjusted by the long screw, with a small (4mm hex bolt) that is secured in the white spring carrier. Be careful not to move the clutch slave cylinder too much when lining backup, as it is attached to a solid pipe.
