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993 is Running Great !!

Andy B Aces High

Andy B Aces High

New member
Just got back from a run out the the 993 and it is running great.

This is the first time I have taken it out since I changed the HT Leads, Dizzy Caps and Rotor Arms and also cleaned out the Idle Stabilisation Valve (ISV) and I can truely say the car is transformed. It pulls cleaner and the idle is smoother. The old leads were knackered, you could see the rubber sheave was perished and the caps and rotor arms were also well past their sell by date. If you do not have any paperwork to show they have been done on your car then change them because it is money well spent, chances are they haven't because it is not an easy job.

The job requires a lot of the upper bits removing from the engine to gain acces to the Leads and Caps. I followed an article from p-car.com which although was for a Varioram also gave some useful pointers for my Non-Vario. The most important item is a Phillips Bit and Ratchet Spanner to gain access to some of the clip screws under the manifold. p-car.com also has an article on cleaning the ISV.

The Lead set, Caps and Rotors came from Design 911 (no affliation) who were very competitively priced, the Leads are Beru, Caps and Rotors Bosch all as per OEM parts. OPC price for the lead set alone would have been £500 !!!!

This was also the first proper run since I have lowered the car using Bilstein HD's and OEM M033 springs, the car feels much more planted on the road than before and actually feels less "crashy" than on its original shocks and springs. This surprised me as I thought the ride would be slightly bumpier. The car is on 18's and I was considering changing these before doing the suspension but the car now feels right so I will be keeping them on.

Tuesday, new tyres (Contact 2's) being fitted, then off to Tognola on Thursday for 4 Wheel Alighnment.

After that will look at getting a bit more growl from the exhausts, possibly the LPMM mod.

If you have stayed with me this far then thanks for reading.

Andy B.




 
Good write-up, Andy. I totally agree with you - my HT leads, dizzy caps and rotor arms were changed at my last service, along with a wheel alignment. When I picked her up, I thought I was in someone elses car! There is a noticeable difference from the second you start up, and the wheel alignment made the steering much sharper (it was quite a bit out!).

I must tackle the ISV next as the revs take a while to drop sometimes when I come to traffic lights.

Darren
 
Nice to hear Andy, did mine a little while back and found the insulation stripped off in places. I think a lot of 993's are running around with pretty much all the ignition system as the car left the factory.

Next thing you might think about are the engine mounts. My car has done just over 70,000 miles and I'd begun to notice that it had more transmission lash than I remember. These go slowly so you don't realise that they're gone, the car just feels rougher over bumps and the clutch take is hard to get right. I found that when I drove it and came on and off the thottle, I'd get quite a lurch in the drivetrain. Lash basically. Finally decided to replace the mounts and did them this morning. Wish I'd done them ages ago as it's a 100% better. Easy to do too. Rides much better now and feels planted at the back. Shifts much smoother too. I think if any of you out there are on your orginal mounts, I'd consider looking at them as they are now over 10 years old. They are hydraulic, oil filled mounts as standard, and mine showed no leaks but were kaput. If you need to know what to look for based on my experience, I'm happy to give some tips.

Regards
GR
 
GR we should probably start a new thread on the subject of engine mounts, so as not to detract from Andy's orginal post. But did you replace the engine mountings with standard orginal parts or is there an alternative?
 
I replaced them with RS ones. It's one of the few RS parts that are cheaper than the original items. People source them from various places but I got them from my OPC. With the discount they were the same price as being sold elsewhere. They do add a little more vibration but you'd have to be looking (feeling?) for it. I've done quite a bit to my car this last year and this was one of the jobs that made the most difference. Especially in terms of "bang for buck". I have all the part number for the job if you're interested.

Regards
GR
 
Hi Andy,

I replaced every nut and bolt doing this, the extra ones I used only cost a few pounds and I understand they have a nasty tendancy to shear off when you come to re-tighten them. Cheap insurance so I suggest you do the same.

All the part numbers you need to do the job are:

Mount - 964 375 043 81. 2 needed @ 94.20 each
Hex bolt- 900 082 030 02. 2 needed @ 4.26 each
seat - 901 305 311 00. 4 needed @ 2.23 each
washer - 999 025 074 02. 4 needed @ 7.54 each
hex nut - 999 084 215 09. 2 needed @ 70p each

Optional bolts and washers:

Hex bolt - 900 074 134 02. 4 needed @ 24p each
washer - 999 025 134 02. 4 needed @ 1 each

Total cost inc VAT was 256.31.

I got them form Reading OPC.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Regards
GR
 
With regards to the original post, thanks for the wright up. It's always good to see someone sharing positive information.

This is work i am getting done at the end of the month as mine is going in for a service, paying particular attention to the ICV and the MAF sensor. Probably get the leads done also as i have already had the caps and rotor arm changed and the distributor drive belt. The car felt better after this and i imagine will be better still with new leads. Roll on next Friday [:)]
 
John, no, the aren't ordinary washers. The washers in question sit between the bolt head and the engine carrier and I think are especially hardned ones to take the grief. That, and add about 40% for the "Porsche" effect.
 
ORIGINAL: Guards Red

Nice to hear Andy, did mine a little while back and found the insulation stripped off in places. I think a lot of 993's are running around with pretty much all the ignition system as the car left the factory.

Next thing you might think about are the engine mounts. My car has done just over 70,000 miles and I'd begun to notice that it had more transmission lash than I remember. These go slowly so you don't realise that they're gone, the car just feels rougher over bumps and the clutch take is hard to get right. I found that when I drove it and came on and off the thottle, I'd get quite a lurch in the drivetrain. Lash basically. Finally decided to replace the mounts and did them this morning. Wish I'd done them ages ago as it's a 100% better. Easy to do too. Rides much better now and feels planted at the back. Shifts much smoother too. I think if any of you out there are on your orginal mounts, I'd consider looking at them as they are now over 10 years old. They are hydraulic, oil filled mounts as standard, and mine showed no leaks but were kaput. If you need to know what to look for based on my experience, I'm happy to give some tips.

Regards
GR
Click to expand...

GR - this is great information! Recently my car seems to be running a bit rough, and I couldn't put my finger on it until I read your post. The clutch was replaced quite recently, but I found it difficult to get a smooth take off, and ever time I came on and off the throttle, the car would jerk. I assumed it was some sort of mechanical issue but it sounds like the transmission lash you are referring to.
My next service is only a 12k one and due in a couple of month, so I'll ask the garage to check and replace the mounts as it doesn't sound too expensive.

I can't believe the amount of useful info I pick up on these forums. Thanks guys!

Darren
 
Hi Sidned,

I would be prepared to bet money your engine mounts are knackered too. I've had my 993 for over six years now and last year I had H&R coilovers installed together with the lower front A arms, anti-roll bar bushes, and drop links replaced. The car felt much better but it didn't feel as 'tight' as I thought it might. I think the harder suspension takes it toll on other weaker links in the drivetrain and the car got harder to drive smoothly. Especially in the mornings, engine cold, it would really be jerky on/off thottle. But I couldn't rememeber how much transmission movement it used to have. I looked at the mounts and found a biggish gap between the underneath of the mount and the rubber bump plate which is part of the mount. I could get my finger between the two (you can do this check in the engine bay with just the lid up). I decided to bite the bullet and replace them. It's now got no lash at all! As in, if I come on and off the thottle, it just speeds up or slows down with no movement in the drivetrain at all. Best pound for pound spend on the car so far. I istalled the RS shift a month or so back and that's much smoother too.

Hope the above helps, I have my old engine mounts and can take a photo of the "gap" I'm talking about.

Regards
GR
 
GR

A picture of the engine mount 'gap' would be a wortwhile addition to the thread. Thank you for all the infrormation.
 
Hi fellas,

I taken some pictures, the mounts have been sitting on my workbench for a few days and the rod has withdrawn into the main body of the mount so the "gap" is not obvious any more. It would be where my finger is pointing and I could insert my finger into it comfotably when the mount was installed in the car. I think it should look the way it looks now in the car.

My aplogies for the poor quality, I tried to upload about ten times before I got the size right!

Regards
GR
 
Picking my new RS mounts + associated metalware at the end of the week. £250 incl. PCGB discount. Nice early birthday pressie [8D]

£380 + VAT for the "original" fluid-filled ones! Ouch...[X(]
 
How easy or difficult is the tranny mount to change & which mount is the one to go for? Is the RS one a bit high on the NVH scale?
 
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