993 is Running Great !!

[Guards Red]

Hi Roddy, are you doing the work yourself?

If you're doing them at home in the garage, one small tip. Every now and again put the tips of your fingers between the bumper cut outs and the tips and check that the gap does not grow. It's the best way of knowing that the engine is staying put as you undo the main mounting nut under the car. I put a wooden block under the engine casing and jacked the engine till I just felt it lift the car. Even so the engine did start to come down after the body had stopped because the mounts were allowing it to droop. You'll know what I mean when you're down there. The exhaust tips check give you reassurance with out having to crawl out ever few minutes to examine the mount from above.

I keep marvelling at how much better the car is since I did the swap, I'm wondering what other peoples experiences are. Let us know how you get on.

Regards
GR

 

[Guards Red]

Just read your post re the transmission mount. This has to be pressed out and is quite fiddly. From what I've read, it does add quite a bit to the NVH and will allow some transmission whine into the car interior. Great if you want that authentic 'race car sound' but perhaps a step too far.

 

[b7gud911]

Hello GR
I have been reading your post with interest, as i have just bought my 993 and it seems to suffer from a lot of the symptoms you mention such as movement in the drivetrain, difficult to change gear without snatching. So i think i should have a go at changing mine, the car has done 80,000 miles with no record of the mounts being changed, did you find a guide on how do the job the or just clever enough to look and fit as you go, i would prefer a step by step idiots guide before i try it, i have a bodyshop with most tools, jacks etc but no lift or ramp. basically can you pat my head and say its a doddle or should i pay to have it done. Any help or nods in the right direction would be brilliant.
regards Paul.

 

[Guards Red]

Hi Paul,

seems daunting but really its a POP. There's a guide on p-car.com but it's a matter of three bolts per side. Just support the engine from below using a wooden block and jack and go for it. If you're particulary dexterous you can even do it without putting the car on stands. But enough from me, here's a link:

http://p-car.com/diy/motormount/

Enjoy.

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: Guards Red

Hi Roddy, are you doing the work yourself?

If you're doing them at home in the garage, one small tip. Every now and again put the tips of your fingers between the bumper cut outs and the tips and check that the gap does not grow. It's the best way of knowing that the engine is staying put as you undo the main mounting nut under the car. I put a wooden block under the engine casing and jacked the engine till I just felt it lift the car. Even so the engine did start to come down after the body had stopped because the mounts were allowing it to droop. You'll know what I mean when you're down there. The exhaust tips check give you reassurance with out having to crawl out ever few minutes to examine the mount from above.

I keep marvelling at how much better the car is since I did the swap, I'm wondering what other peoples experiences are. Let us know how you get on.

Regards
GR

Cheers GR. Picked the RS mounts up today. Supposed to wait until my birthday in April before I fit them...

Might need to do a bit of negotiation with the boss!

Roddy

 

[b7gud911]

Thanks GR
Will order parts first thing Monday and try and fit them next weekend, thanks for the Link which is now printed and ready to be studied in detail, one things for sure if i can do it anyone can, will give you my report and verdict on improvement as soon as i have done it, thanks again.
Regards Paul.

 

[Guards Red]

One thing fellas, don't tighten the bolts to the figures given on P-car.com. The main bolt is not a problem, Porsche recommend 63lbft for that, but I could not find any figure for the small body to mounting bolts. I'm told 15-to 18lbft is plenty, especially if you plan on using the old bolts. Any more than that any the head can shear off when you tighten them.

Regards
GR

 

[Guest]

Thanks GR - very grateful for that one. I've got new bolts, but will follow your advice. Looks like an easy job. Famous last words, pride before a fall & all that![]

Roddy

 

[Guest]

Job done! Took me an hour, including a 20min chat with a friend. One of the easiest jobs I've done on the car. The LH mount will come out with a little wriggling (engine cover release wire tube gets in the way slightly). You need to avoid twisting the RS mount rubber as you torque the new mounts up. I was able to do this by holding the head of the bolt very still with a large 19mm spanner/locking it against the bulkhead.

I found that the O/S old original mount had failed - would not have known this without removing it. Thanks guys, off for a drive now! [8D]

 

[Guest]

Test drive completed - feels like the gear change has improved. I had a problem with getting into/out of 2nd, 4th & 6th which seems to have disappeared completely.

Maybe this has cured it? Might have been clutch drag in the cold weather, but not sure why only these gears...[8|]

 

[Guards Red]

Hi Roddy, glad it worked out for you without any problems. I think the engine rotates from side to side in the engine bay once the mounts have failed which makes clutch take up a hit and miss affair.The linkage rotates too about it's axis which presumably accounts for your selection issues.

My 993 used to lurch out of fast corners which was, I believe, down to the engine moving around back their unsupported. It feels aboslutely planted now. Best money I spent so far.

Regards
GR

 

[Guest]

Hi GR,

Definitely felt the lurching at the back end before doing the mounts, although only once when I thought I was really "spanking it". Obviously I don't use the car's full potential enough! [8D]

Cheers,
Roddy

 

[Guest]

Thanks Maurice, appreciate this info.

It had new synthetic gearbox oil 12 months ago, although I'm not sure what brand (indie did it for me). He removed the rubber gaiter from the selector rod, as this was split & was assumed to be fouling the change, although I still noticed this odd problem through the recent cold winter months.

Changes beautifully now, since I changed the engine mounts (as long as I don't rush the synchro when box is cold). I've got some Mobilube SHC to pop in soon, so will report back if any nasty surprises.

Might keep the bubbly on ice for now. Probably cheaper than the Mobilube though! [8|]

Cheers
Roddy

 

[Guards Red]

Hi Roddy,

I put the SHC in just a month or so ago. It's better, but don't expect too much. Our friends over on Rennlist are recommending something new now, also by Mobil. Can't remember the name of the product, but that it started with a "D". Spoke to various distributors recommended by Mobil UK and only one had it. Told me it was so new into their warehouse that they'd not yet opened the consignment. I could have it......if I bought a drum of the stuff. Still way cheaper than the SHC per litre, but I could think what to do with the other 10 gallons or whatever it was. Fun never stops does it?

 

[Guest]

True. I like the sound of the million mile truck oil, so to speak. Got the SHC already, so will give it a go. Thanks for the info.

Did the engine bay dampers tonight - scared myself silly when the lid shot up during the first test. Could remove a few heads now! (and yes, they were the correct ones, not turbo spec!!). What a difference.

 

[sidned]

Roddy,

Was that an easy job? I have some replacement engine lid dampers but can't pluck up the nerve to try it. The nearside one looks achievable, but the other one looks impossible. How do you get the clips off the far end without losing them?

Darren

 

[Andy B Aces High]

Darren

Changed my lid dampers front and rear this winter, job was not as bad as I thought it would be. For the rear ones it is worth practicing on the lid pin clips first to understand how the clips work, you basically push the tongue part away from the pin then slide the clip to disengage from the pin it is obvious when you look at them. For the rear inner fixings I put some old cloth over the engine so that if I dropped the clip or pin I could retrieve them, luckily I didnt drop them. The front dampers use the same clips on the lid, the lower end you have to prise off the pin.

There is a good article on p.com with some more hints on changing them.

GR

I have ordered some RS engine mounts and will be fitting this weekend, hoping to find similar improvement to yourself as I have also found that when pulling away it is sometimes difficult to get the clutch bite just right.

Andy B.

 

[Guest]

A firm hand and a good pair of snipe-nosed pliers will see you right for the dampers Darren. If you lose a clip (I didn't but feared I would), they are easily obtainable for pennies from any motor factor. Don't lose the pins though, might be a bit more of a headache. I used a little workman's stool to kneel on, which let me in at the right angle. You have to remove the airbox cover on the O/S - just undo the jubilee clip on the breather tube first, undo the two clips on the cover & lift away, it's easy. When fitting new dampers, use your shoulder to lift/lower the lid, which will align the holes up before you put the pins back in. Easy job, you can't do any harm unless you drop the lid on your head! Took me about 45mins.

Cheers & good luck []

 

[sidned]

Thanks guys. I'm going to give it a go once we get some decent weather![8|]

 

[Andy B Aces High]

Hi Guys,

Changed my engine mounts tonight, started at about 6.30 finished by 8.30. Like you say the job is a doddle.

Just come in from a run out and it really has made a difference to how the clutch bits and the car responds, feels more responsive. It has even helped with some of my wheel arch/tyre rubbing problem, maybe because the weight of the engine is more stable and not lunging side to side, it certainly did not rub on some of the bends that it usually does.

Andy B.