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997 ownership

As well as the above great advise I,ve got myself well in the habit off not going above 3000rpm until the oil temp is 90deg and also not putting the engine under unecessary load at anytime, by that I mean, don't have a heavy throttle foot at low revs.
 
Brilliant advice, many thanks. Changing my oil and filter tomorrow ?? Then I'll warm her up before putting my foot down!
 
I have owned my Porsche 911 (997) Carrera 2S for over two years now.

It needed a rebuild when I first bought it - that has been done - not a problem since. I think it is partly down to driver 'error' at most part. Not having enough mechanical sympathy for this Sports Car.

Treat it like a Petrol Turbo and it will be fine. If you get in it and drive with full testosterone before the Oil and Coolant Temperature is satisfactory it is more likely to break. Regarding the cooling issues there are ways around this (in-line waterpump, lower temperature thermostat, higher fan speed), but most car enthusiasts will do modifications like this and not suffer any of the dreadful bore scoring such as when mine was repaired.

They are a rewarding car to drive. I was told to repair then sell mine, because they always break. I don't think they break that often.
 
If you have the C2 or C4S you can also add the third middle radiator same as the turbo or the GT3. This is quiet an easy upgrade using the original parts as the tie in pipes just connect to the existing cooling radiators that have blanking caps in position as standard.
 
Thanks for all the advice chaps! Just changed the oil and all seems fine, no smoke or sooty exhaust. centre rad sounds like a good idea. Would you suggest changing the thermostat as well when you add the centre Rad?
kind regards

Matt
 
angusc said:
If you have the C2 or C4S you can also add the third middle radiator same as the turbo or the GT3. This is quiet an easy upgrade using the original parts as the tie in pipes just connect to the existing cooling radiators that have blanking caps in position as standard.
Click to expand...
Curious. Even under the hardest driving I have never seen the water temp exceed 80c so, therefore, I would guess the rads and fans do their job. The effect of adding another rad would only reduce the occasions when the fans cut in? ( They run all the time when the air con is on anyway.) If you use a lower temp thermostat the engine may well always run at that lower temp as the cooling system seems able to maintain it. Is there then any issue with running the engine cooler than the manufacturer intended?
 
The main benefit I've read about with the low temp thermostat is that oil temp is between 10 to 20 deg lower most of the time, which helps maintain it's life. (and I've not yet found anyone whose water temp went much above 80deg unless the head gasket was shot - this is because the sensor is placed in the coolant return not before, so it's a bit of a false indicator and why oil temp is a far better indicator of actual engine temp)
People forget the cooling role that oil plays in addition to lubrication in any engine, so overall it seems like a good move should you want to.
 
Now I'm really confused! If the water temp sensor is in the coolant return line why does it rise so quickly from cold when the thermostat is closed?
 
I know it sounds bizarre, but the thermostat and sensor are on the return side. The temperature gauge rises initially because the coolant has been through the radiators and is warming up, but only passing back into the engine at a (very) slow rate as the thermostat doesn't start to open until 86deg and isn't fully open until 99deg.
The dash gauge also shows a 'buffered' temperature which is closer to the temperature of coolant leaving the radiators, not as it leaves the engine where it's hottest.
If you're technically minded (or don't mind having the willies scared out of you) there's a brilliant article on the Hartech website showing exactly how this and the Cylinder Head layout can lead to Bore Scoring in 996 / 997 engines. And why the low temperature thermostat can be a good idea - basically, it evens out the temperature across the whole cooling system much earlier than the standard version)
 
It sounds more than bizzare and totally different to any other engine I've come across. Must have a look at the Hartech article to understand how the water can flow through the rads and round the system while the thermostat in the return line is closed (or barely open). How does the hot water get to the thermostat to open it up? I thought the main purpose of the stat was to bring the engine up to operating temp asap. I wonder why Porsche changed a system that has worked in 1000s of engine before it?
 
Hi there
my 997 c4 gen 1 has passed 100,000 miles , does not use any oil , does approx 26 mpg ,
seems quieter with P zero tyres
I get Parr Racing to service and change the oil every 10,000 miles
Am happy as Larry with this Black Beauty





 
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