A couple of questions from a newbie

[blade7]

Gaz or KW don't have anything that bolts onto a S2? I don't recognise the whining gearbox either, not on my turbo anyway.

 

[The51rider]

Both of those companies have S2 offerings but can be somewhat pricey. It also depends on the intended use of the car too. The B6 option seems very popular but is a little more involved than a simple bolt in.
To the OP, lovely looking car!

 

[GregBarton78]

Thanks all for the guidance and feedback. The car at the moment is a 100 yard stunner. i.e. the closer you get the more work it needs! Will aim to get the paint compounded and polished up in the Easter break.

In terms of the front struts, I guess the Koni 'cut a strut' is the only realistic option. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXSnNZt3NiI&t=5s

I've managed to find a set of correct width and correct rolling radius tyres for the 17" wheels, along with getting the alignment checked & sorted, which has made a massive difference to the on road behaviour. Previously it was on 215/45 17 on the front and 255/40/ 17 on the rear. Transmission is quieter now it isn't overgeared! Its much more alive on the road, so they're obviously very sensitive to tyre size and type.

It still wants to head slightly to the left all the time (3-4 degrees of steering lock happens if you let it do its thing) and the front left feels soft in corners so I suspect there may be a tired strut and/or some worn bushes that side. What is a little concerning is that the front wing looks to have been repainted at some point so there is some rooting around to do. The top mount looks perfect so am hoping that rebushing and replacing the shocks will pull things together.

The brakes have come to life nicely for 50 miles of driving which is a surprise - pulls up nice and straight with decent pedal feel, which on the one hand is frustrating as I've ordered new pads & discs but the discs are lipped so should be replaced really.

I'll set about cleaning up the air inlet etc as it's not great running very light throttle opening at low revs (i.e. steady 30mph) - the car seems to be hesitating all the time at very low throttle opening as it is on and off the power all the time. As soon as you open it up it's very happy & similarly on the overrun, no issue, but with tiny throttle opening it won't settle into a smooth cruise.

Another question is how much weight should there be in the steering? At speed it's really nicely weighted, but feels heavy and a touch slow when manouvering slowly. Wondering if I have a duff pump?

 

[Waylander]

Probably no fault with the pump, they are quite heavy parking, if you wish to sort the weight then a new high pressure hose from the power steering store will sort it out, the old one is collapsing inside and restricting flow, you can also change the fluid tank as it has a non clean filter in it
you can use a Myele replacement part for the 3 series BMW of the same era,
it’s about half the price of the same part in a Porsche box

when replacing disks and pads inspect the callipers closely for plate lift,

i would avoid any after market urethane bushes as they will stiffen the car and transmit more road noise and vibration

 

[The51rider]

VW front ARB bushes are the same part number and also cheaper than those in the Porsche box.The front ARB stiffeners from Partworks.de are recommended. New rear drop links are also available from Partworks for the rear ARB at a far more reasonable amount than from your OPC. If you are planning on the front suspension refresh, just go for a basic steering/tracking alignment check for the moment as the new or refurbished struts will require this to be redone again when you install them.
Given the age of the car, a good soaking of penetrating oil on nuts & bolts that you will be undoing is highly recommended a couple of days in advance of the actual job- gives you a fighting chance of avoiding the dreaded sheared fastening experience.

 

[blade7]

Opinion is divided on the anti roll bar stiffeners, some say they stop the anti roll bar working properly. I made some years ago, and TBH I think they reduced the turn in feel a bit, if that makes sense.

 

[IanK]

In terms of the front struts, I guess the Koni 'cut a strut' is the only realistic option. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXSnNZt3NiI&t=5s

Yep - I almost went down that route but instead did the Bilstein mod that requires a new top collar welding onto the cut strut rather than bolting through the bottom.

I didnt have the kit (or skills) to do the welding myself so last autumn I engaged the services of 51Rider on the Tipec forum who arranged for all that to be done - I just sent him my old struts and the new Bilstein inserts and he returned them all done at a very reasonable cost.

As has been mentioned above - dont forget to get an alignment done once refitted.

Ian

 

[IanK]

Gaz or KW don't have anything that bolts onto a S2? I don't recognise the whining gearbox either, not on my turbo anyway.

To be fair, I think they may do - but not at standard ride hight/stiffness - you need to lower the car by at least 20mm with the KW kit I looked at (approx. £2k).

Ian

 

[blade7]

Gaz or KW don't have anything that bolts onto a S2? I don't recognise the whining gearbox either, not on my turbo anyway.

To be fair, I think they may do - but not at standard ride hight/stiffness - you need to lower the car by at least 20mm with the KW kit I looked at (approx. £2k).

Ian

I fitted KW's on my turbo years ago, I don't remember lowering to be essential.

 

[scam75]

KW's don't require lowering IIRC, Gaz, which I have, does.

I had ARB stiffeners on a while back and the car was barge like at the front so they got ditched. I don't know if it was the combination of being lowered and the ARB stiffeners, but it was pretty hopeless.

Stuart

 

[IanK]

This is the only kit they offer to fit my car today.

I assume (perhaps wrongly) that they lower the car by 20/25mm minimum.

 

[graham.webb]

Ian. My car could do with new shock absorbers (not absolutely necessary yet), and my pragmatic Indie insists not just yet. It is very comfortable, but rolls a bit when driven enthusiastically (often). My avatar here is shot at Prescott.
However I've had very good advice here in the past (run a search), summarised here:

OEM Sachs have had some problems with not lasting long, as Porsche AG supply was old stock made years ago (2003?) Dried out seals etc.

Bilstein reckoned to be excellent transformation, but front struts dependent on quality of the cut and weld. Someone on here had unacceptable play possibly down to the finished length being incorrect!

KW V3 always well reviewed, a transformation, but some have commented that it's a bit stiffer.

When I eventually get mine done I will go for the KW set up.

 

[Waylander]

full B6 replacement less than £1000, KWV3 £3000 plus labour,

as for the body roll, that's more likely to be the ARB mounts and bushes and drop links

 

[blade7]

Admittedly it was over a decade ago, but when I bought the KW V3's they were around £1300. And I haggled £150 off that. I think at todays prices I'd fit Bilsteins.