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Advice Please

Richard....are we getting somewhere. Been working all weekend so still havent had a chance to ring porsche and will look round to see if a good indie exists.
However....after all that work FUSE C1 WAS BLOWN. I have replaced the fuse with another one, tried to start the car but nothing. However, upon checking the new fuse, this had also blown so maybe we have the answer, something is shorting it out maybe!!!!
The only jobs i have done on the car is;
1. alternator change plus battery
2. track rod ends
Is there something near these that could have been knocked etc. I dont know where the variocam solenoid is??
Are we getting closer do you think? Any ideas on what to do next,
David
 
If it keeps blowing C1 then that's definitely your problem. When you changed the alternator you would have removed the airbox and MAF sensor, and the vacuum changeover valve. It would be worth checking those two plugs. The variocam solenoids are on the cylinder heads, so you shouldn't have disturbed them, but a short is occurring somewhere, which is causing the fuse to blow.

It is all pretty tight in there, so it's difficult to see much from the top (and not much better from underneath). All you can do is look for something obvious, and then maybe pass it to the professionals. Unfortunately I don't know any specialists in the Cannock area - maybe someone else can chime in here.
 
Will strip down again to see if any wires seem a little worn. However, everything has been ok since i fitted the alternator, trouble seems to have come just after it went in for an MOT.
Probably just a coincidence as i don't think they would be having the boot lid up.
Hopefully once i have removed the airbox and electrical fittings who knows i may come across a wire with worn insulation. I will let you know how i get on.
David.

ps You are right about a close indie, dont think there is one. Was also with PCGB when in Surrey as i enjoyed the monthly meetings and trips organised by them and only lived 5 miles from their meeting place. However, nearest PCGB to Cannock is over 45 miles away so didnt renew membership. I miss the events but find travelling this distance every month after work would be really difficult.
 
Unfortunately I don't know any specialists in the Cannock area - maybe someone else can chime in here.

Porscheshop in Halesowen is probably the nearest specialist so not exactly local. Never used them myself (I had a BMW when I lived on the Chase) but they seem to be mentioned reasonably regularly.


 
Thanks John....at the moment i'm not finding a lot of time as i'm back busy at work but will look them up this weekend to assess the distance etc.
 
Hi Richard....removed the air box again last night and played around with all the electrical connectors i could find in the rear engine space, ie just disconnected and then reconnected them. Followed each electrical line as far as i could and did not discover any loose wires or worn insulation anywhere.
Anyway, once i had refitted everything i decided to jack the rear of the car up (passengers side). I've now discovered where my vario-cam is. The unit seems to have a braided wire running to a fitting which seems to be held on with 2 bolts. The outside coating seemed a little brittle and slightly crumbled away leaving what i think is about half the braiding at the connecting point. I followed this wire which then seems to go into another fitting on the engine,(maybe the variocam solenoid, or is the photo itself the variocam solenoid??). Not sure how this connects or disconnects etc but seems very solid.
A long shot i know but do you think that this slightly corroded wire could have caused the problem and if so do you know how the other end etc can be disconnected and replaced.
About a week or so before the problem there was on the very odd occasion, moments when the revs would vary when idling, but this was not very often.
Many thanks,
David

247BC547E50E450B8370533E30FFCC42.jpg
 
Hello there
The most local Indi to you could be, CMS in Telford, there good,and keep loads of spares too.01952 608911, give them a bell. cheers Andy
 
That doesn't look like the Variocam solenoid, but it does look suspect, whatever it is.

The v/c solenoid has a coil which is screwed to the cam cover, and has a plug as shown in the attachment.

Edit: After reading your post again, the lumpy idle sounds very much like a variocam solenoid. If the wires are intact, perhaps the coil has shorted out inside.

EDDF138FBE4B42C7A6CF59090144E11A.jpg
 
Hi Richard, still not got round to looking into this as busy last weekend and a damn cold this weekend. Anyway, placed another fuse into C1, turned ignition to on but not fully, just to see if fuse would blow. Everything was ok. Turned fully to start car and it did, but only ran for about 20 seconds, quite lumpy, then heard fuse blow. Does the fact that it started now eliminate the immobiliser and computer under the passenger seat, albeit only for 20 secs ?
Funny that it started for just a short while!!! I am going to re look at the wire i photographed hopefully again mid week.
David E
 
Sorry, once again as i typed my last message thought what the hell and got under the car again. Took another photo Richard. The fiitting photographed earlier may have been too close for you to see. I have taken a shot further out. Here you can see this fitting fastened to the side of the variocam unit. This is why i thought it maybe the variocam solenoid. Looks a little like your picture, if you look closely you can see the words variocam. Do you think i am ok removing the bolts and replacing as the wire is not that brilliant. Could this be the issue??
The photo was taken lying under the car just behind the wheel facing inwards and up.
Cheers

8576138738754BEAA5C8550387D28234.jpg
 
Edited: I think that is the Variocam solenoid. Something is shorting out, which is blowing the fuse, but I can't say it is the solenoid for sure - it is just that someone else had it happen. If you trace the wire back, you should find a connector a few inches back. Try disconnecting it to see if it stops blowing a fuse. Remember there is one on the other bank too!

If it started briefly, then you can rule out the immobiliser.
 
richard....disconnected the plug as stated and car started and continued to run. So it looks like this is the problem after all. however, once i had removed the 2 bolts the unit didnt want to come out. is it just stuck or do i have to unscrew the unit itself?
can the unit also be tested off the car? only just found out from another post that your quoting £115 for the unit!!!
thanks,
David
 
I think you'll find it is just stuck. I would be very careful, and to be honest now that you have tracked down the problem I would be tempted to take it to an indy if I were you. The workshop manual says that you can only do it with the coil vertical (ie engine out of the car) so although I know it can be done with the engine in place, there might be a trick to it.

A98D21B4023A4C27957687B55F765BE2.jpg
 
Our buyer's checklist would be a useful starting point when viewing a car. You can get a copy via here: http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=269468#

A lot depends on your budget, but I would say go for the newest car you can afford with reasonable mileage, that has a good service history. If you are going to keep the car for, say, 3 years, then you will be adding 45000 miles, so it is likely to end up being high mileage anyway. So you would have to buy one with extremely low mileage (and pay a premium) to end up with moderate mileage when you come to sell it.

The Tip/Manual debate will run forever, but you should at least test drive a Tip, as it might surprise you.

As for 2/4WD, they both have a different feel, so again, you need to try both. I've had both, and I have to say that I prefer the more pure Porsche feel of 2WD when I'm in the mood for a bit of spirited driving, but the 4WD is very reassuring in difficult conditions.

Hope this highly non-commital reply helps, and enjoy your search.
 
The buyers guide Richard has linked is a great guide for buying. Make sure you look through the history and have a good read of it, as the OPC service paperwork will give engineers reports on any potential faults or issues at the service intervals, and you can see if authorisation was given to carry out the repairs and if they were then completed during that or later services.

Don't be affraid to take time looking at the history when looking at the car, the owner should expect it. Make a note of where the services were carried out, if they were specialists and not OPC, then give them a call with the reg and ask them to validate the work carried out. If there was a recent service call the garage that serviced the car and try to speak to the tech that dealt with it to see if he can tell you anything else about the car (he may recall it if it was recent). If any history is missing, call any garages that are documented to have dealt with the car and ask them when, and at what mileages the car was seem, they will have a record. Always check the reg / vin against the history.

You can get peter morgan to do a check, or an OPC to do a (200 point I think) check for around 150.00 or a more thorough check for around 200.00 (but you will need to get the car to the OPC, and likely the owner won't let you take it there, so you will need to be patient and arrange it around them).

As Richard said, the mileage you are doing will mean you will want to ideally get a lower mileage model. I bought mine as what I thought was a bit of a bargain, it was high mileage, but it was mint, as an example I have only done 750 miles in the past 5 months, so I am in a different situation. You will likely pay a premium for a lower mileage model (although I recently spoke to someone who purchased a C4, same age as mine with half of the mileage for the same price, he happened to be in the right place at the right time!).

Don't rush into buying one - I did (it's easy to when you see one in the flesh that looks, sounds and goes well), and in all honesty I love my 996 (I loved the colour, interior, sound and everything about the car when I first saw it), but my funds were limited, and I am starting to have to add things to mine to get it to where I want to be. Now I suppose this isn't a bad thing, as the I am renewing a lot of stuff vs it being old, however I probably would have rather waited a few months until now when I was in a better position and just put a extra few k in and got a model already with everything I wanted, or got a lower mileage model. Still, who knows what's around the corner (could have just as easily been in a worse position). I wouldn't say mileage is everything though, I would generally much rather have a car with comprehensive history that has wanted for nothing than have a lower mileage model with sketchy history.

Take it for a good, long test as well - several times if you can. I took my car out three times over the course of a week before commiting (although my mind was pretty much made up after the first drive and as soon as I saw it! I just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to let me down when I handed the cash over).

Good l uck.
 
You have a fuel tank and a pump. Fuel tanks themsleves have no moving parts, ergo it is the pump in my humble opinion, unless it is the cd changer, but the sound would be coming from further forward. It is not immediately appreciated that the Turbo has a saddle type of fuel tank becuase of the front diff, and according to my Porsche Appreticed indie, if the fuel level is allowed to go too low, the suction side of the pump can draw air when going up a bit of an incline; generally submerged fuel pumps tend to be of the roller type with the fuel flowing through the the pump, over the commutator and out, and acting as a lubricant, so no fuel or an aerated flow could lead to pump damage, and unless you have owned the car form new there is no guarantee that a previous owner has not let this happen. A squeak or squeal means the pump will be making more effort to turn so you might be able to see how much current it is drawing, but unfortunately I can't tell you what it shoud be.
There is not much under the bonnet on the 996 and if you remove the plastic trim you could unplug the cd, and pretty much if you have a squeak the pump is all that is left running.

That said you could have the beginning of a brake sevo diphragm splitting and a tiny split may well manifest itself as a squeak or squeal, and is darn site easier to check before you as you say lash out £500 on a new pump. £500, I thought the throttle body at £670 was bad enough. I presume that is the price for a genuine Porsche Part. Porsche Centre Exeter have built quite a good reputation for their prices on spares but this might just be on the front engined 924/68 ranges but worth a phone call.

Not related but I just bought a two lever column switch from PC reading which was cheaper thne the identical item from an on line independant but I didn't surf every site. Places like Berlyn Sevices now known as Parts for Porsche, Type 911 and design 911 are all places to visit to compare prices
 
For example Design 911 have a genuine Porsche part fuel pump for £235 suits boxster 996/997. Does the 996 have two pumps?
 
Hi Mick

If you cant tell precisely what it is get a decent indie to check it,Richard may be along later to give some sage advice

FYI the roller pumps are VDO I wouldnt let anybody relieve me of £500 just for a pump sprinkled with porshce fairy dust,for that money you can buy the motorsport pump

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/180764-fuel-pump-system-exposed-couple-pictures.html

do a websearch on the fuel pump there is certainly plenty out there onthe american sites as below, Kevin from ultimate motor werks did a great piece on replacing the standard pump with the motosport one just helpful from the point ofview or removing and reinstallling and general info

http://www.turboflatsix.com/ultimate-motorwerks-tank-t191.html?s=aec7cfecbdc1728efb0cba74c996c24b&

he suggests there are two additional pumps in the tank which are scavenge pumps

good luck

 
Thank you for your replies

The squeal is definately coming from the fuel tank I had a good listen and put my ear to the top of tank and it is deffinately where the noise is coming from

I have done a few serches for the pump and most places dont list the pump and say main dealer only


What are your thoughts on this comment i read on Rennlist and is this right about resetting the computers on the key if so would that not be a good idea to reset the computers every now and again to make sure everything is working as it should . I have not heard about this


The comment
I heard that Porsche computer systems sometime lose their place and that if you turn the key to "on" position but not start the car and leave it in the "on" position for a couple of minutes the electronics "reset". I did this last night and today the car now fires right up and the pump doesn't whine.

 

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