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'ANTILOCK' light why me

Sounds like it's worth an hours work to check. The bolt and nut couldnt be made out they were so corroded. I just cut and put a new bonding point in. It's worth taking the paint back to get a good earth bond if you drill a new hole.

Anyway, hope it sorts it.

Good luck. Mark.
 
Nice one Mark [:)]

Hopefully ours are similarly easy to resolve, my light is also on as soon as I start the engine as Neil's which would suggest a similar problem. Will have a looksy this weekend when I replace the brake pads.

All the best.

Dave K.
 
There are Bosch specialist centres dotted around the country with diagnostic equipment. No idea how much it would cost but is definately better than pulling out your hair!
 
Just need to keep patient. Electrical problems on old cars nearly always seem to involve lots of bad connections. I don't have that many left to sort on my car but for peace of mind I will probably get at the last 3 or 4 that I haven't done yet. One thing that does worry me a little is that we are starting to reach the time when connections on to the various PCB's in the car could start breaking down. Compared to a modern VCR or computer it is amazing how well the electronics in our cars was made. Most of us have had 15+ years of trouble free motoring out of these cars electronics up to now.
 
OK guys I haven't fixed mine yet despite re-making the earth contact for the pump. It was very corroded but seemed to buzz through ok so may not have been a bad problem. BTW I managed to get the bolt out ok by just taping on a smaller socket which also cleaned up and re-made the shape on the bolt.

Can I check with the guru's the following:
If I have a bad sensor will this definitely result in the light only coming on after pulling away and getting up to 6mph?

I ask because I have asked a few ppl at work not familiar with this car but very knowledgeable with others who think that the light will be on all the time. One case is with the ABS fitted to me Saab should fail a continuity test on startup if any of the sensors are bad i.e. will fail before possibly failing counting rates from the 4 sensors.

Cheers guys for any help
 
A sender or sensor can fail open or closed. I think (and I'm guessing here) a broken connection may well cause the abs light to fail the startup test because the car doesn't need to be moving for continuity to be tested, but if the sensor fails 'open' (ie it gives a reading but doesn't detect wheel movement in one wheel) it couldn't detect that until the car starts to move.
 
Right then, I have read the workshop manual and set to work on my ABS today.

The main relay is fine because I put it in Trefs S2 and his light didn't come on.

I tried to remove the front sensors but they seem to have welded themselves on to the hubs so I left them in place. What I did do though is to measure the voltage whilst spinning the wheel (basically the principle is like a generator). Both front sensors produce a voltage that goes up and down as the wheel is turned, and the resistance with the wheel stationary is very close to that posted before, about 970 to 980 ohms.

Given the design principles I am thinking the previous posting with regards to the ABS 3 step self test looks correct because Perry's car would definitely have failed a continuity test but when started the light went out.

I haven't put a multimeter on the rears yet but I think I am gona bite the bullet and get some relays for the pump.

I hope I haven't fried the computer when my alternator was going crazy and kicking out nearly 30v! I have also used a fast charger/starter a few times something the ABS section in the manual says to never do.
 
Annoying that the information on "what not to do" is always buried in the details for that component rather than in the task at hand isn't it?
How to jump start your car... connect here and here, turn key, etc, etc, remove leads, ponder the extra pretty lights on the dashboard, replace components here, here, and here... then take car to main dealer as this requires special tools/no servieable parts inside/we couln't be bothered to figure out how to fix it anyway.

If there are two relays on teh ABS pump, do you know what they do? Are they the same? If so, is it a case that you might get different symptoms if you were to swap them over? This might at least suggest these are the problem, or not...

Tref.
 
Actually I was going to check the ABS ECU for any obvious damage with the connections etc. Then if it is easy to remove I was going to ask if I could swap it out with your ABS ECU to verify that it's not the ECU. This is all after I do the same checks on the rear ABS sensors of course.
 
My ABS is still not fixed, the light came back on after a few days. I'm convinced it's a sensor and am trying to find someone breaking a 944 to get a pair to try. BTW Neil, the ECU is VERY easy to replace, it is kinda above the boot open button next to your feet. Let me know if you have any joy. I'm thinking of taking mine to a Bosch repair centre, and they have the tool that can diagnose it. Hope its not the pump, coz that looks like a bitch. [:mad:]
 
ORIGINAL: Neil Haughey

Actually I was going to check the ABS ECU for any obvious damage with the connections etc. Then if it is easy to remove I was going to ask if I could swap it out with your ABS ECU to verify that it's not the ECU. This is all after I do the same checks on the rear ABS sensors of course.
Click to expand...

No problem, all you have to do is catch me in the right county for a few minutes!

Regards,

Tref.
 
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