Bare metal respray.

[Guest]

Hi Guys

Well I've done it, Iv'e got my trusty targa going in to have the rusty sills done, but you know it just doesn't stop there. oh no.
As we walked around the car me and the paint shop owner came to the conclusion that the only part of the car that wouldn't benefit from being repainted was the rear spoiler but then we noticed a small scratch on that as well!

So now the whole car is being stripped back to bare metal and the pair of rusty sills and B posts replaced and we also decided to replace the nearside front wing as that has some rust bubbles appearing under the headlight, phew

The paintshop guy asked me if I would like to source my own panels as he thought I my be able to get them at a better price than him,for example the new front wing he can get for around £600 from Porsche.

Any ideas Guys

Thanks in advance

Glenn Martin

 

[zwhitea]

I personally would be carefull with a bare metal respray, as this is likely to remove the zinc anodizing which should be protecting it from rush. [&:]. When I have mine totally resprayed, the bodyshop decided to only rub it down enough to remove the top coat of paint, leaving most of the undercoat etc,. But saying that the respray wasn't being done to remove rust, but to just restore its looks.

Anyway saying that make sure you have budgeted for all the replacement seals. Other than the obvious wing seals which are pence, I ended up replacing window channel strips, door seals, roof seals, windscreen seal (which stopped it leaking!!) etc.. all of this added a couple of hundred onto the cost..

adam

 

[Guest]

Thanks for pointing that out Adam, I'll know that some of the seals are included in the price but I'll have to check which ones!

PS why did you give away a 911!!

 

[zwhitea]

It wasn't given away for free, but it hurt to sell a genuine 1987 SuperSport Cabriolet for a little over £13k...[]

 

[mbrands]

What is the going rate on a respray such as the one you described ? How did you go about choosing a paintshop ?

 

[zwhitea]

Not sure who you are asking but the respray I had cost £2.200+vat for metallic.. plus about £400 on seals etc.

This was total rub down, windows out, bonnet, boot dismanteled, doors off, bumpers off, roof out, etc.. surface rust behind some of the seals was also treated..

Door window frames were recoated in black, along with detailing like spraying the inside of the doors black as they should be.

All of the above along with reassembly took over 2 weeks... The only thing I had to do once finished was to apply wax and polish, as he cuts the paint to a brilliant shine, but refuses to let wax or polishes anywhere near his premises.

Adam.

 

[Bazgillie]

Glen
The wings are about second hand but expect to pay £250 + VAT and delivery I managed to get one from PH sportscars in Derbyshire that was very clean. He imports cars from America to break. The other panels you can get from Bert Berlyn for a sensible price. I would agree with what others have said about not stripping back to bare metal as Porsche put a really good base coat on the metal.
Another way of saving some money is to strip and rebuild the car yourself as this part of the job is very labour intensive.
Baz

 

[Richard Pottle]

Have you thought about carbon fibre wings? I know that Stuttgart Connection can supply them. They quoted me £802 + VAT for a pair of turbo front wings.

Just a thought etc.

 

[captbasil]

Who would one recommend for a really good respray then, in the South, please?!

 

[Guest]

Hi Basil,

I'll reccomend the Guy who does mine, if he does a good job.
Its going in on the 26 Sept so I'm getting slightly nervous!

Cheers

Glenn

 

[Guest]

Hi,

Bare metal or not?
I have just finished the preparation of a 1988 car, prior to bare metal refinishing. This is a 75k mile car in good order, with no apparent rust damage.
I found too much rust UNDER the original Porsche primer coats to believe that I could rely on it. All of the wing edges/returns had rust under the original stonechip/body protection: rear valence much the same. There is not much point going in greater detail, but I have absolutely no doubt that it pays to start afresh.
The bare bare metal approach ensures that you know exactly what you have to be concerned about. To rely on a 17 year old paint system and underbody protection, is unwise. To spend £2500 or whatever on putting new paint on top of it, seems madness.
Paint systems are much like chains -as strong as the weakest link.

 

[Guest]

Good point Mike.

When you think about it, even if you end up removing the galvanising, which lets face it doesn't last forever, and apply the paint layers correctly, there is no reason why the finish shouldn't last for many years to come, providing you look after it.

The guy who is doing mine has suggested putting several coats of clear laquer on top after he has resprayed it, what do you Guys think? He says this stops the paint fading, and maintains its lustre.

Cheers

Glenn

 

[Guest]

Im sorry I didn't reply to your post, I must have missed it!!

I had the Guy whom is respraying my car reccomended by a fellow club member, simple as that really! Oh and of course the price was'nt to bad either. Well not if you say it quick anyway!

Cheers

Glenn

 

[bones]

Personally I wouldn't strip back to bare metal unless it was totally necessary for the reason mentioned and also I wouldn't ask for a laquered finish either but if you know you won't keep the paint in tip-top condition go for laquer it's harder wearing but you can't get the same depth of finish when polished as you can with paint only.

 

[captbasil]

Glenn.
Hope it comes out ok - is it a bare metal job or are you keeping the original galvanizing?
Let me know the result!!!
Basil

 

[Guest]

Hi,

Further to my last post, I forgot to mention the business of whether to remove the front wings or not.

Again my experience is from a 1988 75k miles car showing no signs of rust and original paintwork. My view is that if a refinishing exercise is to be completed the wings have to come off: I am very pleased I took the trouble but saddened by what I found.

The original underbody coating cannot be relied upon. In places it was as good as new and in others it had dried out, lifted and underneath, guess what. Areas I was concerned about were under the front headlights, along the wing/body joints, the lower sections of the wheel arches, both front and back, as well as other places. Worst of all were areas where heat radiated from adjoining parts had "cooked" the coating and the area adjacent to the run of the oil cooler pipes is a fine example.

In my case, there was "sweat" type rust along the body/wing seams which was easily removed. Of more concern was the deeper seated corrossion in many other places: relatively small areas but rust, none the less, no body perforation, but on the way!!.

Treatment was a mix of spot sandblasting, wire cups, abrasive rolls etc. Great care was taken to ensure that these areas were retreated and refinished properly.

So again, more evidence that the galvanising cannot be relied upon after 17 years or so and that's not a criticism of Porsche, its a simple fact. My car looked rustless from the outside!! No, it had no accident damage and the wings were removed for the first time in the car's life. Think about it. What is the point of preserving the galvanising when it can no longer be relied upon?

Perhaps the point is more that removing all of the original finish is more time, more work and more expense. Removing the wings is hassle and the resealing on the bodywork a chore. For a refinisher, it's easier to work on the existing finish, it's easier not to bother with removing the wings, it's easier not inspect the underbody coating, treat the rust and reseal properly.

Perhaps that is why many are persuaded by refinishers to "preserve the galvanised finish provided by Porsche". Your choice, of course, but I would thoroughly recommend that any refinishing schedule pay as much attention to the underside of your car as the external finishes.

 

[tripe]

Hear hear. The last time I stripped one down I uncovered three resprays, some light side damage (previously repaired) and even body repairs carried out at the factory on the rear wing where it appears that an over excited welder had burnt through the metal.

Buy a gallon can of Nitromors, some good rubber gloves, a few scrapers, stiff brushes and get stuck in. In my view much better to start a paint job from scratch safe in the knowledge that all the nasties have been dealt with - a favourite rust trap is the top of the front inner wing, mud and salt is trapped by the washer bottle filler tube on the pasenger side and the oil lines on the offside -only by removing the wings can this be checked out.

 

[Bazgillie]

Glenn
When I removed my N/S front wing I found that the mud and crud had built up on top of the bumper support iron and rusted through next to the battery, I had to remove the bumper support iron and repair that and the inner wing. Whilst I had the wing off I did away with the washer bottle and replaced it with a much smaller one that I have located under the bonnet, this came from a Peugeot 405 and the wiring even fitted !
Baz

 

[captbasil]

Glenn
How was the respray?
Basil

 

[Guest]

The car hasn't been resprayed yet!

A few days before I was due to take it in I phoned the Guy and asked if he was ready for my car to go in, he said that I could take it in but he hadn't quite finished an Aston Martin and an MG.

I didn't fancy my car hanging around outside for a week so I said I'd call back in a week. So I did but still not ready for me arrrg.

So still waiting I'm afraid!!

Glenn