Bens old turbo meets my 3l 8 valve project.

[JamesO]

Cheers, have ordered the Irwins, it may sound daft but its the first time I've failed to get bolts out. the usual tricks normally work but I didn't want to get too heavy handed at the end of the crank.

Yep Ben I may live to regret that clutch. I figure it can't be much worse than driving about on the limp home tabs when the rubber puck thing has given up the ghost (which I did for a year).

 

[JamesO]

Ok so pulled the turbo exhaust valves and they are indeed the same dimensions as the 2.7 ones which begs the question as to why the non sodium filled 2.7 valves are nearly twice the price?

 

[os951]

I hope you never get stuck in traffic with that clutch!

Yep Ben I may live to regret that clutch. I figure it can't be much worse than driving about on the limp home tabs when the rubber puck thing has given up the ghost (which I did for a year).

Disk look familiar; it is made here in Finland by a guy who fabricates really nice connecting rods (also for 944's when i asked long enough [] )
This guy does not sell outside Finland, so i have helped this company guys to get these products
What comes to driveability; first it will be a little bit squere, but at least the second driving season you can drive even in rush hour with it. We have planned another a little bit more streetable version.

Same fabricators 944 con rod with original 951 one

 

[JamesO]

Ah, mine came from Deusch Nine. The first one got lost in the postal system somewhere so they sent another.
I was going to use the con rods from the 951 engine, I think they will be stronger than the 968 rods.

 

[os951]

Yes and D9 got it from me [] If i remeber correctly i sent at least one disk directly to you.

I wouldn't use 951 rods on 3.0L build ups. After all there are 3 desings available. Only model year 1986 are decent ones. I 1992 968 ones should not use, newer are a little bit better, but still not that good than 951 ones. I prefer my billet steel rods (same as D9 sells). Have them custom made here in Finland according my wishes. They are bullet proof and can handle at least 1500 hp (tested).

 

[JamesO]

Ah that explains the clutch.
Those rods do look nice, 1500 hp impressive.
The rods I have are from a 1986 951. The engine is from a 1992 968 which I think were the weak rods, will check the manual.
I'm not trying to get big power more reliability with a good shove.

 

[JamesO]

Well the rods and pistons are out, the '92 968 rods according to the manual should be replaced if the engine is ever rebuilt, not sure if I have misread this but they do look pretty tiny compared to the 951 rod.

Open engine:-

And the pistons, guess which is which.

 

[os951]

You need these. Did you get my offer?

Here's rod with two different 951 designs

Weight difference

 

[JamesO]

Well spent most of the evening trying to remove the 7 snapped studs in the wastegate. Lots of penetrating fluid failed, lots of heat failed, stud extractor failed, even a nut screwed onto what was left of a stud then welded in place failed (did start a nice fire under the bench though).
Looks like a drill and tap/Helicoil job, when I can actually find where I threw it.

 

[333pg333]

Olli, that clutch looks like it would be similar to a light switch. On or off? Have you driven with one yet?
Rods are very nice. []

 

[DivineE]

ORIGINAL: os951

I rather like the look of those rods. Now is not really the time for me but how do they compare price wise with the Carrillo items?

 

[TTM]

Good question Ben.
They look very similar to the Carrillos, but at 1.084lbs (492g) they weigh about 0.286lbs (130g) less - Impressive! []

 

[os951]

rather like the look of those rods. Now is not really the time for me but how do they compare price wise with the Carrillo items?

These are made by a friend here in Finland. He have about 25 years experience making rods. These are quaranteed to handle at least 1500hp. Mainly his products are made for rally & Drag race cars. He made a first 944 set for me about 2 ½ years ago. We have here in Finland at least four 3.0L build ups which use these rods. Also some in Estonia and few in central Europe, since Deutsch Nine are selling these for 951€.
I know there is a set just now for sale in 750€, because guy who ordered it did not collect them in spring as deal was. If some of you is interested just PM me, i can help.Usually i can arrange these for 900€.Kit includes 4 rods & ARP bolts/nuts, assmbly instructions & ARP assembly grease.
What comes to quality, the weight difference between rods is less than 0.5G. I was not able to find any difference when i use my "hi tech" kitchen scale.

He also manufacturers those clucth disk. At the start it might be a little bit aggressive, but honestly after few hundred km's you can drive with it even in the city traffic. It's not as comfortable as oem style disk though.

 

[JamesO]

Bit of an update, most of the bits are on the engine, wastegate, crossover and front section are fitted.

Fitted the transaxle on sunday, it may be a mistake but easily swapped if needs be. I have used my S2 transaxle for the lower gear ratios.


Heres my hi-tech gearbox jack, a damn site easier than bench pressing the thing into place.

And transaxle in with a bottle jack just to get the final alignment

Its now nearly ready to go, I just need to source the following:

Air oil seperator
Hose from AOS to turbo mounting
Heat shield for the AOS/turbo
Exhaust back box
Cycling valve

 

[Diver944]

ORIGINAL: JamesO

it may be a mistake but easily swapped if needs be. I have used my S2 transaxle for the lower gear ratios.

I think you may find yourself swapping the Turbo box back in. The extra grunt and torque with a 3L+ makes the Turbo gearbox feel very low ratio'd [8D][8D][8D]. I'd imagine an S2 gearbox with a 3L Turbo will be waaaay too short a ratio

 

[nick_968]

I have an original 951 exhaust (full system from downpipe back) and a spare used AOS. You probably dont want to use the K26/6 on a 3l for long as the back pressure will be too high, a K26/8 is bad enough! You will also need to get a remap done as the fuel and ignition will be off as well. The ignition timing on a 3.0 is quite a bit different to a 2.5. Watch the boost with the standard comp ratio, common practice is to fit a 3mm head gasket to help with this. Much more than 7-8 psi and you will be into the danger zone if you are not already there!

 

[JamesO]

As you suggest I wont be running much boost, infact Plenty of chipped 220 turbo's will have more BHP. Its more about using what parts I have, seeing what happens and upgrading as I go.
Once it starts and runs I'll be using Microsquirt for management as with the last car.

 

[os951]

You have a "ghetto-version" of transmission tool []

 

[George Elliott]

Oli, I am very impressed with the wooded transaxles you have in Finland, however they are not up to the quality standard of your other modified components.
We are still using aluminium
George

 

[JamesO]

ORIGINAL: os951

You have a "ghetto-version" of transmission tool []

Ha ha yeah spent a whole ten minutes knocking that together but it worked fine.