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BEST PAINT RESTORER ??!!

dgrewar

New member
Evening all

Having conquered the replacement of a cv joint (thanks Bert, and the 33 splines!) I am now looking to revive the Guards Red paintwork. It is not a disaster - tired is a good word.
Could you please recommend the best product for revitalising the beautiful colour, and maintaining it!
Many thanks in advance
Donald Grewar
944 2.7 '89 Guards Red
St Andrews

 

ORIGINAL: dirtydirtyharry

Autoglym Paint renovator (white bottle with a pink label)

Not to be confused with Autoglym screen wash which is also in a white bottle with a pink label... [;)] You could be there for a looooooonnnngg time!
 
And once restored use a decent wax or paint sealant to prolong the need to re apply the paint restorer.


Edd
 
Autoglym Bodyshop 02B and 03B (after claying the bodywork) with a DA polisher - be careful near any edges, it's worth masking them with 3M blue masking tape. Then AG Bodyshop 01B hard polish followed by a decent wax. Transformed my GR 9slightly purple!) 968 coupe into showroom new Guards Red. 3M also do very good paint restorer, which I've seen used by pro bodyshops in Tonbridge and Tunbridge Wells, but it's more expensive than AG Bodyshop.
 

ORIGINAL: dgrewar

Evening all

Having conquered the replacement of a cv joint (thanks Bert, and the 33 splines!) I am now looking to revive the Guards Red paintwork. It is not a disaster - tired is a good word.
Could you please recommend the best product for revitalising the beautiful colour, and maintaining it!
Many thanks in advance
Donald Grewar
944 2.7 '89 Guards Red
St Andrews

[/quote

G3 That's all I have to say about that.

Anything you buy from Fancy car polishes are us will just cost more and not be as good. Go to your local auto paint supplier and ask for some G3 and a finishing glaze .
 
Farcela G3 and G10 (Different cutting compounds ) it is what the professional body shops use. now marketed for mortals ! use masking tape and water to prevent burning the paint, as Ed said once you are back to Red wax with a quality wax on a regular basis, Do Do Juice products are very good and British [;)]

 
this is the best place to start:

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/

all polishes etc reviewed and the amount of cut / paint removed explained.


claying is a good place to start, followed by a good renovator like menzerna, you can the polish, glaze, seal and wax if you have a lot of spare time!!
 

ORIGINAL: Frenchy

Farcela G3 and G10 (Different cutting compounds ) it is what the professional body shops use. now marketed for mortals ! use masking tape and water to prevent burning the paint, as Ed said once you are back to Red wax with a quality wax on a regular basis, Do Do Juice products are very good and British [;)]


Having won a number of events over the years in one form or another. I can only add to this..

Farcela is the best to use to restore a cars paint.

G3 being abit harsh but G6 is more widely used to restore old paint and then G10.

The trick I found to really detail the car is to use water. This then lubes the paste and burning becomes less of an issue. i also use a plant water spray bottle so as I am working the paint I can then lube as I go..

I also jet wash the car between pastes this gets rid of all the old paste in places you don't want it eg washer jets etc etc.

Then your free to move onto the next level

I use then a paste from the US p40 or some thing it's called the glaze is amazing and really works!
I do also use the Tox Wax from Farcela.

Also clay bar the car to remove alot of the rubbish on the paint at the G6 stage.

top up the car with top wax every few months and your be supprised.. Also don't use cheap mop heads. and wash them out it's the clogging of the paste that burns the paint!

and the proof in the talk

I was given this car by some one who gave up on it.. I needed a little run about so I took it on

381776_279173218772123_1706273801_n_zps86effb63.jpg


before


4hrs later


317153_279177108771734_449692047_n_zps0cf5fa94.jpg


The problem with the car was a £10 gearbox linkage that had broken and two local garages had told them it needed a new gear box!!!

I know it's not Porsche but it just is to show you what you can do with paint. Still runs great the car!
 
I've been told - by a guy who restored an old Aston Martin and sold it for a very health profit - that T Cut actually does have one good use - defogging the plastic rear window of cabriolets!! He told me there are 2 versions of T Cut, you use one first then the other, but I can't remember what the 2 versions are or which way round you use them. I wasn't brave enough to try it on my 968 cab even though the rear window is not great. AG Bodyshop 02B (2000 grit) got rid of a lot of it - but keep it off the hood, it's a swine to remove from the canvas or whatever the fabric is!!
 
Original red first and then blue. Ive used red a number of times on my plastic MX-5 lamps and they polish up very well. Red is original and blue is less abrasive designed for ('new' - in the 1970s!) basecoat lacquers.
 
Actually there is nothing wrong with T-cut, its just another cutting compound (albeit quite an aggressive one), great for restoring old style cellulose paint finishes.


Edd
 
My personal prob with T-cut is that the new blends are trying to do too much at once. Best splitting everything up into stages in 1st stage clean / cut, 2nd stage polish & third stage protect.
Get it right 1st time and you'll find it much easier to maintain, that polo looks great love seeing pics like that!
 

ORIGINAL: 944 man

Original red first and then blue. Ive used red a number of times on my plastic MX-5 lamps and they polish up very well. Red is original and blue is less abrasive designed for ('new' - in the 1970s!) basecoat lacquers.

Thanks for that - my memory isn't what it used to be, must be an age thing!![:D][:D]
 
£2000 paint job of new paint on a £600 car.. hmmm you do the maths Neil [:D]


The old T cut is ok as such, the new T cut is rubbish..

Basicly I now wouldn't use either.

If you want to keep the rear screen ( plastic ) clear..

G10 and then a glaze.

2-3 of us have explained about the trade compounds ( even photo's ) and the levels ( grades ) to use and then T cut comes in .. I give up [&:] every ones an expert [&:]

LOL!!
 

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