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Best tyre and suspension setups.

ORIGINAL: racerhead

I've cut round holes approx 2" in diameter in the rear sill (see attached pic). This allows me to remove the TB's without dropping the rear suspension assembly and I can now re index the TB's in approx. 10 mins !!!
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Hmmm I like that idea. I think a suitably coloured rubber bung would not detract too much from the appearance on a road/occasional track car wanting to go down this route.
 
That was one of my plans and in fact the original reason for the 968 skirts. In the end I didn't ger round to it, and as I was very, very happy with my suspension setup sort of forgot about the idea.
 
ORIGINAL: Diver944

ORIGINAL: racerhead

I've cut round holes approx 2" in diameter in the rear sill (see attached pic). This allows me to remove the TB's without dropping the rear suspension assembly and I can now re index the TB's in approx. 10 mins !!!
Click to expand...

Hmmm I like that idea. I think a suitably coloured rubber bung would not detract too much from the appearance on a road/occasional track car wanting to go down this route.
Click to expand...

I had mine done as well... if you dont adjuct then yourself it also makes the job massivly cheaper at the garage!
 
Even when I got mine the advice was not to pol bush without a roll cage bracing the top mounts
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Having had kit cars the top mounts are always pretty well braced compared to monocoque tin tops. I would have thought that in a 944 a rear strut brace would be a great advantage
 
Fen
Ive got "solid" top mounts now. Well there Dynatec mounts which have poly bushes in...They make the steering a LOT more precise...

Lali
I thought you were going for the "ultimate" 944.. If so why have you not fitted "remote res " shocks. ie "Moton " or proflex type..??? Or was it down to price....
 
Does having solid top mounts and poly bushings affect the ride of the car and put more strain on other components as the rubber bushes soak up a bit of stress? Also Big Dave, is this on your race car or does this see some road mileage too?
 
Yes fitting poly bushes does affect the ride quality.. BUT not lots..It makes it a little harsher..BUT a load more precise..[:D]
My S2 "race car" does see some road use , so its a duel purpose car...
 
I am getting closer to the KW's but have had all my bushings replaced very recently. If I get the KW's installed should I stick with current bushes or change to poly due to the
"While you're in there" syndrome? I don't do a lot of daily mileage in my car but there are some crappy roads that I'm on. Does fitting poly bushes make the car creak and groan alot more and possibly put other things under stress? Also how long does it take to tune the suspension? Do you find you just leave it on the one setting even for the road?

Thanks
 
If youve recently replaced your bushes then ide leave them in....
I wouldnt say the polybushes make the car "creak + groan" at all...

I got mine from here,,
http://www.k300performance.co.uk/kw-suspension.htm
Kw is easy to adjust,,,
The rear upper adjustment is the only problem . you cant adjust it on the car..You have to remove the rear shock to change the rebound setting, but i find ive set it + left it....only needing to change the bump + rebound settings on the others when i need to...
BUT.. You WILL have to have the rear torsion bars re-indexed/lowered. When / if you fit the Kw stuff....
 
Is there not enought height adjustment to maintain the cars std ride height at the rear? The std ride height is not exactly high!
 
You are supposed to preload the KW enough that a small spring is totally coil-bound, thus ensuring the bigger spring stays on seat even when the car lifts ofer a crest etc. If you do that without adjusting the torsion bars it will look like a 944 silhouette funny car.
 
Fens EXACTLY right...
Trust me when i say that you DEFO HAVE to lower the car on the torsions....

Ive fitted a set to my S2 + i needed to do the job twice as i didnt lower it enough the first time....[:mad:][:mad:][:mad:]...But now im an expert....[;)][;)][;)] "of sorts"..

My S2 now handles like its on rails.. As any of you chaps who were at the Donnington "promax" day + Rockingham can testify too....[:D][:D][:D][:D]..
I might just be going to Donny on the 23 of this month as Track sport are running a day then.. Come along + check it out....[;)][;)][;)]
 
The polybushes are only available for a few locations and they are pretty accessable though you will probably need a new front alignment after fitting. So assuming you have alignment done fairly regularly, no need to do it while you are in. The rubber in the rear torsion bar area is harder to get at, and can be replaced with Weltmeister bushes - a much harder material - Fen has them and I believe they may squeak and transfer more noise, but didn't make it into his car before the engine failed so cant comment on how bad or not.
Tony
 
Another question. Is the KW suspension system rebuildable? The Koni's from the Mo30/968cs are and therefore makes them attractive.
 
Does the KW kit come complete with all the components to simply unbolt the Konis and bolt in their setup. Things such as collars for the coils, brackets for the brake lines etc...Also does anyone have any ideas as to how much the torsion bars need to be re-indexed to lower the ride height so I don't have to do this more than once?
Thanks
 
It comes with everything except the top mount spring seat as I recall, being shipped with a plastic piece that I think is just a cap to hold it together during shipping. If Dave ran them for a time with standard top mounts he can confirm. For me with my Lindsey adjustable top mounts I had to get the spring seats (which are imperial, 2 1/4" I think) turned down to suit the metric 60mm ID springs KW use. It cost me £5 as it took the guy about 10 minutes being a straight-forward turn down of a plain aluminium shoulder.
 
Fen when you say Lindsey adj top mounts do you mean the adj camber plates? If so, do these substitute for the top spring mounts or collars and hold the springs into place? If Big Dave is out there could you also add to this please?
 
Yes, they are complete replacement top mounts. They bolt to the 4 holes in the inner wing and the strut top comes up through a spherical bearing that can be adjusted. They inlclude a spring hat shaped to sit inside the ID of the spring and mate to the face of the top mount plate allowing for the adjustment.
 
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