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Boxster 1st Gen buyers guide?

Boxstercol said:
I agree with some of the above.

Had my 987 for coming up 3 years, it replaced a 986 which got written off in a non fault accident after 3 months of ownership. For me it's a weekend type car with occasional use during the week. It replaced a Eunos Roadster (Japanese imported MX5) which was a fun car but not on the level of the Boxster.

Running costs are huge in relation to the MX5 - tyres / brakes / servicing. Pretty much everything that has the word Porsche associated with it results in further cost, but that's just the nature of the beast.

I don't necessarily agree with buy the lowest mileage one you can. In my experience when I was looking for a 986 & then a replacement to my written off 986, most low mileage cars I viewed had skipped services / maintenance as owners basically didn't seem to want to spend the money on them as they thought that jobs could wait if they're only doing 2k per annum. Also, these cars do not like to be stood up without use - there is a train if though that suggests 'garage queen' Boxsters are more prone to IMS issues & RMS leaks (as seals dry out).

My advice would always be buy on condition. Whether the car has done 40k or 80k, look for condition every time plus a thorough service history. 987's have a 2 year / 20k service interval. A caring owner who looks after his car will get the oil & filter changed annually regardless.

Some of the things to look out for:
- Brake disc corrosion on inner faces, could result in changing discs & pads - caused by lack of use / not drying brakes off after washing etc
- Air con condensers
- Brake line corrosion
- Tyres - dependent upon size could cost up to £1k fir premium brands
- Corroded exhaust brackets
- RMS leaks - however this could be the IMS seal leaking, only way to find out is by dropping the box
- Broken springs quite common on outer roads
- Squeak / creak over rough surfaces could be suspension needing a refresh, normally the longitudinal arms or coffin arms
- water ingress into the cabin caused by blocked drains - can end up frying the alarm ECU under passenger seat
- water pumps tend to fail at circa 60k miles

Hope this helps.


those are the very small cost items, you need to be looking at the bigger items

shocks
top mounts
all bushes
brakes
all copper lines
wheel bearings
hubs
all rads and pipe work
exhausts
clutch
flywheel
body work
gearbox if high miles
caliper rebuilds
Rust on lower A pillars
starter motors

as I say you want to see some of this work done on a 16 year old car for sure other wise you are in for a shock, I don't run shocks past 60k miles, many will and so it goes on.

it's a mine field hence why a rebuild on a classic is £60k+ even £80k for a proper restore.

a 10 year old 911 will swallow £15k for a refresh, A Boxster is the same car done and said all.

 
MrDemon said:
MJB said:
. It’s hard to see how any of the models that are now regarded as classics have survived to the present day, especially given that the older cars were intrinsically far less durable even if well looked-after.


a restore on a old classic will cost you about £60k , so it's not hard to see how they have lasted at all and why even a basic 911 T will cost you £120k done up now.


The reason that these older cars have lasted up to the point where -if necessary- they need major work is that money was spent on them as required over time and they were not just allowed to deteriorate to the point when everything was necessary at once. Those cars either do not survive or are brought back from the dead when their finished value eventually warrants it, so ironically some of the best restored cars are often those that have been treated the least well up to that point! The OP has nowhere stated that he intends to purchase a car on which nothing has been spent for years and he is also happy to address any age-related issues on a sound car.

To state that so many components will be beyond further service at a certain point on all cars is simply a massive assumption. On a well-maintained car many components are replaced over time and every part has a life cycle that runs from new to unserviceable. Between those two points is a sliding scale of gradual wear and just because the part is not new there is nothing to stop it functioning within its design parameters until it is worn out. This is how component wear is judged in the real world and within the MOT scheme.

The fact that the Porsche Approved Warranty for cars sold via an OPC can be activated until a car is 13 years old is also a reflection that there are Porsches out there over five years of age that are worth buying and driving.


 
MJB said:
MrDemon said:
MJB said:
. It’s hard to see how any of the models that are now regarded as classics have survived to the present day, especially given that the older cars were intrinsically far less durable even if well looked-after.


a restore on a old classic will cost you about £60k , so it's not hard to see how they have lasted at all and why even a basic 911 T will cost you £120k done up now.


The reason that these older cars have lasted up to the point where -if necessary- they need major work is that money was spent on them as required over time and they were not just allowed to deteriorate to the point when everything was necessary at once. Those cars either do not survive or are brought back from the dead when their finished value eventually warrants it, so ironically some of the best restored cars are often those that have been treated the least well up to that point! The OP has nowhere stated that he intends to purchase a car on which nothing has been spent for years and he is also happy to address any age-related issues on a sound car.

To state that so many components will be beyond further service at a certain point on all cars is simply a massive assumption. On a well-maintained car many components are replaced over time and every part has a life cycle that runs from new to unserviceable. Between those two points is a sliding scale of gradual wear and just because the part is not new there is nothing to stop it functioning withing its design parameters until it is worn out. This is how component wear is judged in the real world and within the MOT scheme.

The fact that the Porsche Approved Warranty for cars sold via an OPC can be activated until a car is 13 years old is also a reflection that there are Porsches out there over five years of age that are worth buying and driving.
Sage words which have given me the confidence to cancel my appointment with the scrapyard ??
 
I bought my Boxster 986 3.2 S back in November for £7,500. It had 82,000 on the clock so it was used regularly, which is what I like to see. Full main dealer Porsche service history too. Aside from a window regulator going (very common fault) and an exhaust gasket needing replacing for a couple of quid, it's incredible. Build quality is phenomenal.

As long as you're buying with full service history, you'll be fine. Personally I'd get a facelift 986 (after 2003) as the changes made really were significant when compared side by side. Revised engine, better lights, bumpers, interior, added glove box (the fact that they didn't have one is ridiculous), etc. It's worth getting over the older ones.

Whichever way you go, I hope you get the right one :)
 
All of the above is valid. The point is that early Boxters aren't worth the sum of their parts. Nowhere near - A failed IMS bearing often means an engine rebuild which, on its own will cost more than the car is, currently, worth. HOWEVER......

Against almost everyone's advice, I bought a 2001 S in 2013 and have never looked back. I love it. I treated the IMS bearing replacement as part of the purchase price. also the rear oil seal which is a cheap job while the IMS bearing is being done.

Running costs are are going to be much much more than a similar aged MX5..... So get one of them!

I run mine on a budget. Replacing worn bits each year in a priority basis. I have a job list for the future but, obviously, safety and MOTs lead my mainainence schedule.

The bottom line is - Good ones are never likely to be cheaper but you have to take your time and make sure you find a gem. There are good people out there to help. Tim from Marque 21 in Bridport gave me some sage advice on what to look out for and does all the larger jobs for me at very reasonable rates. They will, eventually, appreciate in value but that shouldn't be your prime motivation. Well sorted Boxters, even the early ones, are a brilliant brilliant drive! Last year we drove ours to Le Mans for the 24hrs and on to Nice. We hammered down the motorways to get there and took the scenic route back. Wonderful! The fact that they aren't worth the sum of their parts means that many will fall by the wayside and the best will survive. The same applied to 911s not so long ago....

My advice (for what it's worth) is go for it but go with your eyes open. This posting was a sensible place to start.

Good luck.
 
give you an idea what fails on a car though and what needs spending, people did think I was talking bollocks :)
 

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