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Brake Cooling Ducts

Yoda

Yoda

PCGB Member
Member
I am interested in replacing my front (fake) fog lights with air ducts and the plumbing that directs air to the brakes for brake cooling.

I was wondering if anyone can comment on their effectiveness (before and after comparison??) and also any good sources to get these. I have seen some dummy items for sale (with no pumbing to direct the air) but would like to hear if anyone had this fitted recently. An idea of price (painted and fitted) would also be useful as well as good places to get this done.

Thanks
 
They seem to do the business. No problems at all at KH last week. Mine are properly plumbed in with hoses directed at the discs. This involves some modification to wheel liners.

Fully fitted by PSI in Belgium. Cost 655Euro fitted
 
Steve got me a kit ,ducts ,pipes and all the brackets from Stuttgart Connection , painted and fitted inc kit abt £500............cant remember exactlly THEY WORK!
 
they work amazingly well on the 993.. TECHART

driver is now tired before the brakes are ! [:-]

IMG_7534.jpg
 
Don't bother. Mine aren't connected (although may have been from holes seen in liners) and I have no probs with overheating brakes.

In all the Cup Car race pix I have, I have never seen the cars run without blanking plates over the ducts.

It's an easy option if all you want is the looks, but involves some hacking around of oil cooler ducting and liners if you really feel you need them.
 
Yoda

What are you trying to achieve and do you have a specific problem you are trying to solve? As with all performance "improvements", only do them if they address a specific problem YOU are experiencing.

My current view, until proven otherwise, is that there isn't a heat problem with the RS brake system. In fact, this thread has made me wonder if by reducing the cooling (blocking up the airscoop) I might get rid of some of the squeeling as the pads will work closer to their designed temp.
 
I would agree.....

Few people are harder on brakes than me (so I've been told by the pros) and I've never had a problem with overheating on track......Had the wheels overheat though!

lee
 
after my car had its false front fogs punched out in an argument , it turned out to be cheaper to fit techart air duct plates than replacement light covers !!
Didn't get any ducts plumbed up , so just collect flies with them at the moment.
Don't notice any difference in braking , still get blue disks and growing cracks.
Note for Simon...IMHO squealing is normally served cold ie when pootling about on the road and just as you draw to a leisurely halt [:D]
 

ORIGINAL: oldtimer
Note for Simon...IMHO squealing is normally served cold ie when pootling about on the road and just as you draw to a leisurely halt [:D]
Click to expand...
Yes, totally agree. Need to stand on the brakes harder but I am not sure how the people behind in London traffic would react!![:D]
 
I was at Bedford last weekend and after a quiet morning, I spent quite a bit of time on track in the afternoon. After a few sessions I noticed that the brakes felt like they lost their bit - I had to push the pedal a little harder and the response was not as good as earlier sessions. Once they got to this poit, they didn't really recover for the rest of the afternoon.

FYI, this is the first time I have experienced any shortfall in braking performance having done a few track days in the car. Brakes/car are standard ie OE discs and recent OE brake pads. I appreciate the "brake harder" and "don't brake so much" feedback but I know this and it will take me some time to get better at braking. I am looking into options that may help this situation until my driving improves and cooling and alternative pads (Pagid blues) came to mind. Not interested in the look, just want to have fun on track and thought I would look at options before SPA/'Ring next month.

Don't know if that helps complete the picture.

Regards
 
Yes - sorry, should have mentioned. Dot 5 in at the last service, Castrol SRF I think or ATF blue something or another.

Regards
 
I would guess I went out approx 5/6 times in the afternoon for perhaps 20 mins each.
 
Mine are just blanks....plus my disks need replacing....plus judging by my going round with others I need to brake even later, shorter, harder than I do now....but I have no discernable brake fade.....and wouldn't go this route given the £500 could buy me a whole day of Instruction to further improve my braking technique which I've already recognised is 50% of my next major improvement goal.

Don't do it Feroz.....just brake less! [;)]
 
Feroz

Sounds to me as if you are glazing the pads a bit. I personally think you are doing yourself a big diservice with your pads. You need to get soemthing decent in there considering the number of sessions you are doing. It will also help inprove your driving no end. With good pads you will be able to het on the brakes earlier, off them sooner and back on the power when you want. Altogether easier to drive.

There seems to me to be a big misconception about driving ability and car set up. While I do agree that more power isn't needed until you can exploit the power you have, the better set up the car is the easier and quicker the learning process. It takes more skill to drive fast on oem pads, it takes more skill to drive with standard geometry it takes more skilll............................. you get the message!

The better sorted the car, the more predicatable it will be and the easier it will be to learn the limits and how to handle it.
 

ORIGINAL: Yoda

I was at Bedford last weekend and after a quiet morning, I spent quite a bit of time on track in the afternoon. After a few sessions I noticed that the brakes felt like they lost their bit - I had to push the pedal a little harder and the response was not as good as earlier sessions. Once they got to this poit, they didn't really recover for the rest of the afternoon.
Click to expand...

Yoda
You say you've done a few track days on these pads.....could it be that as they are progressively getting thinner/worn out they are more likely to overheat?

lee
 
I am 100% sure the basic problem here is your pads. Change them and you will notice the difference, especially over longer sessions and on tracks where you need to brake from high speeds quite repetitively or on very tight tracks with lots and lots of braking. I believe that cooling ducts will also be of help. I know someone said cup cars weren't running them but the MAJORITY of racing cars (and I've seen them on all types of things from Clio Cup cars to F1 cars) have them and so there must be a reason. Like many performance improvements it won't make a startling difference but it will help. I was told by AP Racing that this was one of the best things to do apart from fitting decent pads when running a modified 200SX. Hope this helps, cheers

Kris
 
why £500? -black scoops £44 + vat from type 911

http://www.type-911.co.uk/images/performance/ducts.jpg

cut hole through pu with hole saw , so air can get to oil cooler, if you want to let air to brakes cut holes in wheel arch liners with hole saw again, 2 hours , job done.
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions/advice. I think I may well try some different pads to see what difference they make. Current pads have plenty of life in them yet so will use them until they are spent.

Am tempted by the air ducts as it makes sense to allow cool air to the brakes but I think I would like the air to be dircted onto the brakes rather than just having the ducts so will look to have some sort of plumbing. Agree with Keith that GBP500 sounds steep for some plastic and tubing.

Regards
 
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