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Brake disk wear

[Sorry off topic]

True, but it seems to me that if the Tiptronic system is having to do work in countering the gravity, it's using energy, getting hotter and generally is under pressure. If you put the handbrake on, it relieves that effort. That may be a simplistic approach, but I've always done it so it has become a habit!

Ahh I see. If you're stuck in traffic and/or on a steep hill, you're better off putting it in neutral and using the handbrake. That is what you are advised in the manual anyway.Otherwise the gearbox will still be turning in gear but the car won't be going anywhere, and that will be putting undue pressure on it.

As for the OP, getting 40k out of a set of disks is very good indeed!
The reason they are so susceptible to rust is because they contain less chrome. The 993 was the last model to have the higher chrome content and I believe that led to a lot more squealing. So that's the trade-off. The advice you've been given so far is sound and would lead to a longer life.

There is a DIY on how to fit disks and pads yourself on the 996 forum

http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=231501

Very easy even for a novice, and won't take longer than 1.5 hours for a first attempt. You can purchase textar pads and Sebra disks through Eurocarparts for less than £150 per axle and fit them yourself, bargain!
 
The trick is definately drying off the discs after driving in Rain or after washing the car. Be careful though to still check the inside face of the disc as this tends imho to rust and pit more easily than the outside visible side. 40K miles is good. My wifes Pegueot 206 had had two sets of front disks by then.... Hard pads and soft disks is the excuse there because they can no longer use Asbestos. Had to put new front pads in my Boxster after 26K miles so am anticipating front Pads and Disks at about 50K miles. Rear pads need doing soon also.
 
Cheers guys for the comforting news. I was told it was the inner faces that were the problem so your advice is spot on! I'll certainly try the hard braking after washing/rain.

Thanks [8D]


PS I'll still get someone to put the next set on though!
 
I shared the same experience when I had my Boxster and continue to do so with my C4S. I haven't experienced it with other makes of cars but by the by. After washing I run it around the block with the brakes applied to heat up the discs (this also gets rid ot the rusty coloured water that sits in the cooling vents within the disc) and park up without using the handbrake. I recieved a recommendation from a member on the 996 forum fr a product that you can spray onto your discs if you are going to sit it up for a period of time without causing any loss of function to braking, its called Carcoon CSP fluid. I haven't tried it as my post cleaning habits have sorted the problem. It is true that you need to use these cars to keep them functioning correctly but far less so than other supercars. Definiately shop elsewhere than OPC for brakes though, they charge a ridiculous price.
 
Surely the handbrake on a boxster is not applied to the disc but to a seperate drum ?
Then anything you do to the discs will not affect the handbreak and vica versa.
 
It is a drum within the rear disc.
But it will stick... Getting heat in to the brakes, as suggested, will help the handbrake too.
 
quick question regarding hand brake brake shoes on a boxster s.bought new shoes as a kit from ecp they do not come with springs.is it worth fitting all new springs when i have shoes /discs replaced(car 6 years old and 32k)

Richard
Boxster S( 02my)
Focus Tdci(07my) (daily driver)
mk4 XR3I cab (project car)
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