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Riggernut

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Hi there, in the process of having my 944 Turbo overhauled, cills, brakes, rear suspension mounts, etc, costing an arm and a leg! hopefully i'll post pics and a write up when complete[:D]. Anyway back to the question, what if any, are the indications of worn bushes on the front anti roll bar. Has anyone carried out this job on their own ?, any specialist tools needed?

any advice gratefully received,

Riggernut
 
Ooooh I 'd love to see step by step pics of the refurb process [8D]

The antiroll bar should sit very snugly in its bushes. If you can see any sort of gap then it really is best to replace them. Mine started clunking from the left when going round right hand corners and when I jacked it up you could almost see daylight between the bush and the bar. The new bush was just a few pounds and was a tight fit to squeeze over the bar but got there in the end. I was a bit of a tightwad and only replace that one bush but plan to replace the others soon. It's easily done but jack up both sides of the car to totally unload the bar itself.
 
that's great thanks diver944, did you opt for the standard bushes or did you go down the polyurethene road?. Just to clarify i've understood you, no need to remove anti roll bar, because the bush is split, it fit's around the bar?, 1hr-2 hr job?


 
I just went for standard and I only replaced one of the four buses - the inner N/S bush that mounts the ARB to the underside of the car. I simply removed the outer droplink bush that holds the bar to the wishbone and then slid the inner bush along the bar before refitting th eoriginal outer droplink again. From memory it was a couple of hours all told.

If replacing all four I think it would be simpler to remove the whole bar, but don't hold me to this as I haven't done it [:)]

I've only replaced #4 in this diagram:



A4CAD8568EAD42B69329578D68592CBA.jpg
 
I just replaced my front arb mounts with poly ones. I got the wishbone ones at the same time as it makes the front feel tighter. I got mine from powerflex on ebay.
 
Yes thought I could do the anti roll bar bushes without taking it off the car, are the wishbones as easy to do ?.
 
Odd how peoples perceptions of expense are so different. If there is one item that is cheap on our cars in my view and experience it is bushes. Just as a comparison the cost of one pair of two ARB bushes for my Focus is £125, and ARB bushes seem to be hellishly expensive on most cars except ours. A mate of mine had some bushes go on the rear of his Mondeo and of course because the bushes are bonded to the rear suspension beam the whole beam had to be replaced. I think he got a £500 bill for that.

 
ORIGINAL: sawood12

Odd how peoples perceptions of expense are so different. If there is one item that is cheap on our cars in my view and experience it is bushes. Just as a comparison the cost of one pair of two ARB bushes for my Focus is £125, and ARB bushes seem to be hellishly expensive on most cars except ours. A mate of mine had some bushes go on the rear of his Mondeo and of course because the bushes are bonded to the rear suspension beam the whole beam had to be replaced. I think he got a £500 bill for that.
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Regard it as odd if you like, just to give you some insight I used to work for a company that amongst other things manufactured belts for Ford, I needed one for my Cosworth, the price to Ford was under 3 quid, half a mile down the road at a Ford garage it was around 40 quid.
 
If you've got the wishbones off, might as well fit 968 castor mounts...of we go again, it just keeps adding up[:D]

Don't forget the cost of re-alignment when its all put back together. Kerching.

Darren.
 
ORIGINAL: A5DSR

If you've got the wishbones off, might as well fit 968 castor mounts...of we go again, it just keeps adding up[:D]

Don't forget the cost of re-alignment when its all put back together. Kerching.

Darren.
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I'm going to get the geo done but obviously after everything else is fitted, so far 968 castor mounts, arb bushes, koni inserts, maybe wishbone bushes, going to fab some droplink braces myself, may fab a chassis lower brace as well if I get round to it, hopefully that will be the front sorted.
 
Make sure your ball joints are OK before you spend out on all this stuff and replace the front wishbone bushes as you wouldn't want to have to do it again for a failed one any time soon.

You might struggle with a lower chassis brace on the Turbo as the corssover pipe gets in the way, which is what prevents the commercially available ones from fitting. On the other hand if you come up with something that works you might be able to sell a few should you be inclined to.
 
ORIGINAL: Fen

Make sure your ball joints are OK before you spend out on all this stuff and replace the front wishbone bushes as you wouldn't want to have to do it again for a failed one any time soon.

You might struggle with a lower chassis brace on the Turbo as the corssover pipe gets in the way, which is what prevents the commercially available ones from fitting. On the other hand if you come up with something that works you might be able to sell a few should you be inclined to.
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I had thought about the balljoints is there a check I can do myself ?, re the chassis brace, years ago I worked for Lola as a fabricator so it wouldn't be a problem, I just don't fancy rolling around under the car trying to make it fit if the benefits aren't noticable.
 
I think the check for balljoints is to simply look for any play. You can get ball joint replacement kits but the OEM ones use plastic bushes which wear out pretty quickly from what I understand, you are much better off with metal (Phosphor Bronze) bushes which I don't think you can get with the OEM kits.

One thing to be wary of is that if your ball joints are worn it could be that the ball has worn into the socket of the arm therefore wearing it into an uneven shape. This will accelerate wear of the replaced ball joint. This is often overlooked and people simply replace the ball joint with a kit. I know that when Autofarm replace balljoints they check for this and have made a tool that restores the socket geometry - however this obviously costs more than fitting the kit yourself.
 
ORIGINAL: sawood12

I think the check for balljoints is to simply look for any play. You can get ball joint replacement kits but the OEM ones use plastic bushes which wear out pretty quickly from what I understand, you are much better off with metal (Phosphor Bronze) bushes which I don't think you can get with the OEM kits.

One thing to be wary of is that if your ball joints are worn it could be that the ball has worn into the socket of the arm therefore wearing it into an uneven shape. This will accelerate wear of the replaced ball joint. This is often overlooked and people simply replace the ball joint with a kit. I know that when Autofarm replace balljoints they check for this and have made a tool that restores the socket geometry - however this obviously costs more than fitting the kit yourself.
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Thanks for the advice, I had read about Hartech's rebuilt wishbones but didn't know other people rebushed them as well.
 
That's interesting. I've never replaced a balljoint with a kit, but from talking to a friend who has done (using the Rennbay one I think) I was under the impression that it was the whole thing. In fact as he was talking about pressing it into the arm I think it had to be the whole thing. I wasn't aware that some kits are only half of the joint and I can't say I like the idea for exactly the reasons you (Scott) describe.
 
Re balljoints, ask Peter (PJS917) about the company he has found that offer refurbishments.

Peter helped me out with replacement balljoints and wishbones on a rolling exchange basis so my car wasn't off the road for a very very reasonable price. The quality is superb as verified by my indy who has seen a few offerings/kits over the years.
 
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