Calipers off!!!! Just

[Guest]

Well got them off finally and they are in need of some TLC to say the least. Boy those bolts were tight (but you would hope so I suppose!!)

Anyway. I finally managed to get the pads off, but on of the anti rattle weights was seized in the piston o each calliper. Looks like when I put them together I will have to just take a weight off the new shims.

Anyway, spend tonight pondering on the next step, no question the plates will have to be replaced, but how to get the old ones off?

Well got stuck in to first calliper and managed to get one plate completely off, but others not having any of it. I used some locally applied heat on each grub screw. Haven't even tried to get the bleed nipples loose yet, that's tomorrow's fun.

I am going to phone around a few local engineering shops on Monday see if they can help with the plate removal, well its got to be cheaper than buying new callipers!!

As for the disks, it looked to me like the inside face of each disk was much more unevenly worn that the outside, and I think some of the old pads have fused to the disk. I wonder if the outside gets slightly better cooling.

The disked measure out at 31.5mm and 31.6 mm so they are in good shape from a wear point. There was never any sign of juddering last year so I hope that the new pads etc will clean them up. I suppose it would be prudent to take them off and get them skimmed but that's much easier said than done. Oh why wont people use copper grease on the disk locating screws"¦Arrrrrrrrr

BTW MC2 worked a treat at cleaning the callipers.

 

[Andy Tims]

ORIGINAL: slim_boy_fat

As for the disks, it looked to me like the inside face of each disk was much more unevenly worn that the outside, and I think some of the old pads have fused to the disk. I wonder if the outside gets slightly better cooling.

Do you have brake dust shields? I have taken the fronts off on my CS to assists cooling.

 

[TTM]

ORIGINAL: slim_boy_fat
Well got stuck in to first calliper and managed to get one plate completely off, but others not having any of it. I used some locally applied heat on each grub screw.

Use a small drill to machine a slit so you can use a plate screwdriver.
If it doesn't work drill the screw ; new plates should come with new screws anyway.

There is obviously very little room in there and it is not easy to take those screws off without cutting each plate in two and dismantling the caliper ...

 

[944Turbo]

In the 911 and PW article they used a lot of heat on the bolts with a thick plate to protect the pistons. I think I would try the next size up allen key (or better an allen socket easier to hit) driven in with a hammer maybe with a little filling first if it is miles off.
Are new plates usually necessary once the corrosion from behind them is removed?

And for the disc locating screws you want an impact driver, I copper grease them and don't do them up tight when I replace them.


Tony

 

[John Sims]

I'm with Tony on the heat bit. In 911&PW they used a gas torch - not a blow lamp. I've seen the same thing done at Autostrassa so it is obviously the way the professionals do it.

I would go with replacing the shims as they will be deformed through the corrosion behind, during removal etc. Also, I like to replace with new when ever I can - new bolts, nuts washers etc. when putting things back together.

Best of luck on finding some one to skim your discs.

 

[Fen]

Any OPC will skim the discs on the car for not too much money.

 

[Guest]

Cheers guys, well a bit on a update, was up till 2 last night and got all the plates off one of the calipers so its just 1 plate left on. For some reason the grub screws on the other caliper were all torx bits, and as we all know they are significantly better for that type of application.

As for the plate, i think they probably could get used again, but its the grub screws that i defiatly wouldnt use. At the end of the day the plates and kit cost about £25 per caliper, so may as well just do it right do it once.
Extra bonus the bleed nipples came off using an 11mm hex socket.

Take note when working with bleed nipples, DONT use an 8 sided ring spanner use a 6 side on, or 6 sided socket, much less chance of rounding.

Cheers.

BWT Fen i assume the calipers have to come off for the OPC to do the disk skim.

There are load of wee engineering shops round glasgow that will do that type of work no problem. £10 per disk!!!

 

[Fen]

No, I think only the wheel comes off. I assume the device bolts to the hub and spins the disk with the cutting tool touching at the other side from the caliper.

 

[mik_ok]

BTW MC2 worked a treat at cleaning the callipers.

Well naturally. []

I second the comment above re impact drivers ~ the only pain free way to remove discs.

 

[John Sims]

I second the comment above re impact drivers ~ the only pain free way to remove discs.

Ditto

A drop of PlusGas doesn't go a miss either. I have had to brig a bit of heat into the equation befor now as well. [8|]

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: John Sims

I second the comment above re impact drivers ~ the only pain free way to remove discs.

Ditto

A drop of PlusGas doesn't go a miss either. I have had to brig a bit of heat into the equation befor now as well. [8|]

Yes i did try the impact driver, but my hammer is not as big as required!!!

Will spray some plus Gas on it, heat isnt really an option, i dont find it works unless you get things very hot, and for that you need oxy, not just propane, especially on a bit of metal that size. It was a bit of a half hearted effort on Sat anyway, will give it more effore next week.

 

[John Sims]

heat isnt really an option, i dont find it works unless you get things very hot, and for that you need oxy, not just propane

I'm not so sure. A reasonable change in temperature helps move the metals just enough to break the joint either during heating or cooling.

An oxy flame is obviosly the best as it gives a more concentrated heat to one ellement thus providing a better heat differential. A blow torch tends to heat all the components and you then relay on their individual heat sink properties, mass etc to change tempertaure and size.

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: John Sims

heat isnt really an option, i dont find it works unless you get things very hot, and for that you need oxy, not just propane

I'm not so sure. A reasonable change in temperature helps move the metals just enough to break the joint either during heating or cooling.

An oxy flame is obviosly the best as it gives a more concentrated heat to one ellement thus providing a better heat differential. A blow torch tends to heat all the components and you then relay on their individual heat sink properties, mass etc to change tempertaure and size.

Very true, will give the screws a lick with the blow torch and see what happnes, if i am board i will spray plus gas onto it at the same time, every little bit helps, lolss.

 

[Andy Duncan]

Chaps,
what's spray plus gas!! Where can it b sourced. Also, where the best plce to acquired plates and screws for the calipers?
Mucj obliged in advance.
andy

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: racerhead

Chaps,
what's spray plus gas!! Where can it b sourced. Also, where the best plce to acquired plates and screws for the calipers?
Mucj obliged in advance.
andy

Plus Gas is a release oil product (like WD40 but much better) Its in a spray can just like WD..

I am probably just going to get the plates off the OPC. Not sure of anywhere else you can get them cheaper. I havnt checked out the price yet, no doubt it will be 3 time the true worth of what it it. lolss

 

[Diver944]

I believe you can only get these calliper plates from an OPC. They are made by Brembo and they have a deal not to supply anyone else and I haven't ever seen any aftermarket versions. The plates aren't too expensive

 

[Andy Duncan]

Thanks for your feedback and advice.

Re my rear calipers on the Silver Rose Turbo S, I entrusted the removal job of the plates to a friend of mine (Panel beater at respected bodyshop) gave him the speil on procedure for doing the job and the problem.

He decided that he did not want to take a blow torch to the caliper and used a chisel and hammer to tease the bolts loose, worked a treat and all bolts loosened easily enough.

Technique of course is important, the chisel needs to be sharp and you need to catch the edge of the bolt just right. This to me is a good option if you do not have Oxyacetalen.

Actually, the plates are ok i only need the bolts!

andy

 

[NorthernBloke]

Well once again I find the answer to my probs on the board - corrosion behind the plates causing the pads to bind slightly and make a bit of an annoying noise - pop on here, then off to the garage with the chisel and viola, sorted []

 

[Mikie_gb]

what's spray plus gas!! Where can it b sourced

Try this site.... type 'plus gas' into the search bar. Very good site for refurbing goodies. Got a catalogue with Practical Classics and spent two nights writing up a shopping list.


FROST

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: Diver944

I believe you can only get these calliper plates from an OPC. They are made by Brembo and they have a deal not to supply anyone else and I haven't ever seen any aftermarket versions. The plates aren't too expensive

I bought mine from Porscheshop for eighty quid[]

I recently replaced the caliper plates. On each caliper one plate had torque heads and the other allen head. The torques unscrewed with no effort, the allen heads would not budge even with heat etc. Tried everything until I rounded them off. Cut slots etc. I finally cut m8 bolts down and welded them onto the allen heads, probably the heat helped but were then very easy to undo with a spanner. Lots of crap to clean off behind them.


As an aside to this. When I was done and ready to road test, I think (as I can not find it anywhere) I left the security socket (nut key) on the wheel nut and drove off. I got a replacement from Jasmine for £22.00 in total. Luckily I kept the code, as there are thirty variants. Which funnily enough on e-bay there is a case containing all thirty!
So remember to remove the socket and make sure you have kept your code safe!