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Cambelt change frequency

D

Dico

New member
Sorry chaps, I know it will have been asked a thousand time before, and search facilities never seem to work for me.
Mine was last changed 3 1/2 years ago along with the waterpump, and checked for tension the following year. Its only covered 20,000 miles since so I think its the timescale that is going to come up first.
Also is it a requirement for the belt to be checked anualy or just once? I was quoted £130 for the check. Bit pricey if its required every year.

One more question - Is it fine to use Mobil 1 0/40 fully synthetic?
Its what I use in the Lotus, and Its very reasonably priced at Costco [;)]. Or is there a favoured oil amongst you chaps?

Oh, and its a turbo model

Ta. Paul
 
Change it.

Officially four years/40k, but why risk it? I always recommend 3 years/30k to be safe.

Good news about the water pump, just get the rollers and oil seals checked at the same time and you should be ok for the next three years.

I have always understood the tension is checked at 1k after change, not annually. Should be an hour labour tops, so the £50 mark at a good indie near me, and that's the most expensive part of the country....[:eek:]
 
Thanks

I have always understood the tension is checked at 1k after change, not annually. Should be an hour labour tops, so the £50 mark at a good indie near me, and that's the most expensive part of the country....[:eek:]
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Hmm thats interesting. The guy who gave me that quote came highly recomended too!
 
Don't use 0w40 - too thin. 10w40 would be better

Worth doing the belts now - one less thing to worry about
 
Hmm thats interesting. The guy who gave me that quote came highly recomended too!
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Might he have been allowing for any other checks at the same time? It does sound pretty high, at around the 2 hours plus VAT it works out to. Closer to the cost of a full change, excluding parts!


 
The cambelt check is 1500-2500kms after change, IIRC. About 1000 miles, or a bit more.

I had mine checked by the indie that did the work. He quoted an hours' labour for the work. I asked whether this was the check, or the associated work in taking the covers off ... to cut a long story short, I ended up driving it there, taking the covers off myself, he checked it and proclaimed it fine (and stamped the book to say it was checked), I put the covers back on and drove off!

(I did drop by later with a 4-pack to say 'thanks' ... )


Oli.
 
He did mention he would have to take the covers off and then quoted the price. I then said I may as well have it changed then, and he said - 'Yes' [8|]

Daft thing is I do all the work on the Lotus myself (even removed the engine and box a couple of years back), but somehow don't have the balls to start stripping this specimen.
Does anyone on here carry out there own work?
 
ORIGINAL: Dico

Daft thing is I do all the work on the Lotus myself (even removed the engine and box a couple of years back), but somehow don't have the balls to start stripping this specimen.
Does anyone on here carry out there own work?
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Put it like this, given what I saw when I took those covers off, I'll not be paying someone to do the work next time 'round!


Oli.
 
ORIGINAL: edh

As long as you have the magical "tensioner" tool you'll be OK [;)]
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My indie doesn't ... he uses exactly the same method as I used for Golfs - 90degree twist on longest run and it is OK. The tensioner wheel is meant to set the tension correctly anyway, with the tensioner tool being just a check (or so some of the UK sites suggest).
In fact, it was the lack of the tool that persuaded me that I could do as good a job as the indie, and save a bit of cash into the bargain!

(Just wait for my post in a year or so's time - "I've broken my cambelt, can anyone sell me a replacement head!")


Oli.
 
Ah, I'm sure thems the ones the previous owner kindly gave me. Not had chance to look at them yet.

I was hoping to have it done in 12 months or ideally 18 months (when the 2nd service is due. I'm in the process of selling a house so funds are tight at the minute, at least untill the sale goes through.
Though I was also thinking maybe the 1st service (in my ownership) should be done 'proffesionaly', so the whole car can be checked out.
Haven't found any receipts for a brake fluid change yet. I'm sure I could manage that.

 
"Does anyone on here carry out there own work? "

Yes, I do. Its not worth paying out when my car is now worth only about £3k on a good day!

BTW, you can buy tools from Rennbay to help with tensioning and replacing belts. I'm going to buy these and do the job myself (including water pump, all pulleys, tensioner etc). Planning on doing it this summer when the car will be prepped for MOT.

Working on the 944 is not that bad- just more awkward than on a classic Bristish car (which was most of my previous experience). Things take longer than on a normal car- for instance, bleeding the brakes, if you have an S2 or turbo there are two bleed nipples per calliper- so you have to open all 8 in the right sequence.
 
Thanks John (and all). Thats good info on my extra nipples.

I'll start another thread nearer the time (more than likely [;)]) regarding what dot fluid is best recomended for fast road use.
 
No worries, Dico, it will be good to swap DIY hints and tips. I too was scared to work on my 944 S2 for years, but once started "the fear" evaporated and now I'm doing or contemplating doing all sorts of repairs and service items.
 
I ended up driving it there, taking the covers off myself,
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Cam belts should be checked with the engine cold, this is very important with the huge expansion of a 944 engine.

Mike[:'(]
 
When asked we generally err on the side of caution and recommend 3 years or 36k miles whichever comes first. The official Porsche numbers are 4 years and 48k miles but historically anyone involved in the 944 Register has given up trying to remember the number of belt snap horror stories we've heard [:eek:]

Balancing all that, we occasionally hear of low mileage cars still on original belts so who is to say for certain [&:]

You're in Manchester so Hartech is very close to you in Bolton, they charge £78 to do both belts at the same time as a service
 
Is that all!!

Crikey, I thought I read somewhere it was a LOT more than that. Even with the extra bearing/bearings cost it shouldn't be too bad.

Cheers Paul
 
Just hold your horses folks.
There are 2 different types of tensioner. One you set yourself and one that is spring loaded automatic as used on the 928.

The one that you set yourself SHOULD be checked with the magic tool but I know of several garages that dont use one and rely on their knowledge and skill. If in doubt get it done properly as it is one hell of a mess if you muck it up.
 
ORIGINAL: edh

Don't use 0w40 - too thin. 10w40 would be better.
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Eh? Surely the '0' grade relates to the viscosity of the oil when stone cold. Nice and thin to take the load off the lazy starter and spray around the engine to coat the moving parts when the engine has just been started. When the oil heats up it has the same viscosity as any other hot '40' multigrade so why is it too thin?
 
Oh eck, me and my big mouth [:D]
A lot of folk have their own opinion regarding oil choice. I just wondered if there was any particular reason why I shouldn't use 0/40 on this model. Some folk say when an engine gets a fair few miles on it you should use a thicker oil.

Let the debate begin!
 
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