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Can't start my car!!

We will have a few runs this year I hope, Ray needs to stretch the legs on his new engine!

You are sure there is no spark? Put a spare plug into cylinder 4 lead and keep the plug touching the engine while someone tries to start it. A bad crank position sensor would only effect the fuel pump not the ignition. Can you do the test I described earlier, I think its more likely a pump than ignition but that test will eliminate the fuel side of things.
 
I had very similar symptoms and tried a number of the things you are looking at. It turned out I needed a replacement fuel pump.
 
Forgot to say that twice tried the spark test you described, once myself and once with the auto electrician, and NO spark at all.
 
Fuel pump is located under the car behind a small metal cover about the passenger footwell area. Try to get it running either as described forcing the relay in the DME or jumper contacts 3&7. Before doing that give all the relays a wiggle and a tap especially R33 and R11.
 
Did the test you suggested Rob.With the first DME relay I could only get it to operate by manually doing so but the fuel pump could be heard running. I swapped to a different relay and same thing happened but I could hear clicks from the relay. So the fuel pump seems OK. I thought I would have a look where the crank position sensor was and could see it ok. There isn't much room there to do anything unless you have very slim wrists and fingers. Any further suggestions please?
 
Hi Brian

Ok thats the pump confirmed as running. With the top off the DME relay get someone to switch the ignition on and you should see/hear one relay close. Then ask them to try and start the car and you should see the second relay close. If it doesn't then the crank sensor signal is not getting to the Mortonic unit. If this is the case check the connection behind the engine bay fan, there is a bracket with 3 connections, cant recall which one is which but they are easy to reconnect. Did you give all the relays a tap?
 
Yes gave all the relays a wiggle to firm them in and tapped them. You mean to remove the blower fan on left hand side of engine and check connection is there. If it is connected does it need to be replaced as I originally mentioned?
 
It sounds like you suspect the crank sensor signal? Yes the connector is behind the fan. The sensors do go bad as the alloy clamp that holds it swells and corrode pinching the sensor. Its a job best done on a lift tbh, the gap must be set properly.
 
A similar thread has just started on Rennlist which might be of some extra help?

http://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/859829-c2-non-start-help.html
 
Had a look at the connection behind the blower fan and after taking off the removable lower section of the pipe, shone a torch in there and could see all 3 connectors were in place. So didn't need to take off the blower fan. Wish I had a lift as I can see that by removing the engine cover and removing a heater pipe(?) would be able to take off the sensor and replace it. Knowing my luck something would go wrong while trying it!!! Will have to get the car trailered to Bob Lewis at Broxton to get it done, it needs a service anyway even though I haven't driven it much in recent years. Thanks everyone for your input. Will post the results when known at a later date.
 
Nothing yet Ray. Took it on Thursday to Bob Lewis and he said he would ring me with any news. Probably be Monday or Tuesday before he rings as he wasn't sure when they would be able to look at it. I'll post up any news. Thanks.
 
Still not got this bugger started yet?

**** - Insert suitable descriptive word to describe recalcitrant motor.
 
Rang Wednesday afternoon and Bob told me it was either the Motronic ecu or the immobiliser as they had found some corrosion on a pcb which might be causing a problem. Just waiting to hear some more news tomorrow hopefully. When my local auto electrician (who fitted the new alarm system) checked things out he said it was ok. Whatever as they say!
 
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