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Carrera 3.2 to 3.4 engine rebuild

Beaky

PCGB Member
Member
Full details to follow, engine now back in the car awaiting the first run.

64253BDE421C448384C6979E42F0B0EA.jpg

 
Items done prior to the engine rebuild:
Carbon C12 6&4 pot brakes with 300x30 disc's
Braided pipes & racing brake oil
Kaaz plate LSD
Full Lightweight sports clutch replacement
MPL clutch master cylinder upgrade
85 Litre petrol tank with bosch 044 fuel pump
Club Sport ECU
Classic Retrofit 911-FPE replacement Fuse panel(Blade type with LED indicator)
Suspension refurb, upgrade ARB's, lowered
Cambermeister Strut Brace
7&9 x 16 Fuchs
Turbo steering arms
Wevo G50 short shifter
Wevo engine mounts
Wevo rear anti rollbar brackets
Pelican polygraphite gearbox mounts
Recaro Poleposition seats
Clear indicators & side repeaters
White Dash Dials & LED lights
Teardrop Cup mirrors
964 wiper upgrade
Top rear screen brake light
Fenn Lane Alloy Accelerator Pedal
 
Tell us how it now drives in comparison and expected BHP ... extensive modification to a 3,2 ...... This is one of the unusual engine mods .... Good One ??
 
carreraboy said:
Tell us how it now drives in comparison and expected BHP ... extensive modification to a 3,2 ...... This is one of the unusual engine mods .... Good One ??
I'm still awaiting the call to go pick her up, then she needs around 1k miles to fully run her in, once completed then new oil, recheck and tighten everything and off to the Dyno to fine tune.

So it'll be a good few weeks before I can report back but in the interim build spec was:
New 3.4 Cylinders and Pistons
Fully honed and gas flowed heads
Shrick base/spring/retainer set up
Docherty 993SS cams
Porsche Racing Bolts
Lightweight rods
67mm throttle body
Full SSI exhaust with two in two out back box
And lots of new shiny bits.........
 
Beaky said:
carreraboy said:
Tell us how it now drives in comparison and expected BHP ... extensive modification to a 3,2 ...... This is one of the unusual engine mods .... Good One ??
I'm still awaiting the call to go pick her up, then she needs around 1k miles to fully run her in, once completed then new oil, recheck and tighten everything and off to the Dyno to fine tune.

So it'll be a good few weeks before I can report back but in the interim build spec was:
New 3.4 Cylinders and Pistons
Fully honed and gas flowed heads
Shrick base/spring/retainer set up
Docherty 993SS cams
Porsche Racing Bolts
Lightweight rods
67mm throttle body
Full SSI exhaust with two in two out back box
And lots of new shiny bits.........
Fantastic but you could have cleaned the muck off from around the engine cover lock[:-]:ROFLMAO:
 
What are the benefits of the 7&9 x 16 Fuchs?
I would have thought they would sap some of the performance gains and create more understeer?
 
oliver said:
What are the benefits of the 7&9 x 16 Fuchs?
I would have thought they would sap some of the performance gains and create more understeer?

I believe 7 & 9's were offered an an option on narrow body cars and assume they provide more grip and traction particular out of corners, any weight penalty is insignificant.
Aesthetically they also fill out the arch's very nicely

It's a common upgrade, check out Impact Bumpers, Rennlist and Pelican forums.
 
Only done 100 miles so far, so still needs time to bed in and lots for me to feel from her.
Initial thoughts are you can feel the cams working, she wants to go and your pulling back on the reins. Seems to rev quicker but until one can unleash the full beans difficult to tell.

She sounds completely different, the SSI’s with 2in 2out rear box has a much more throaty raw sound, reminds me of old race cars with straight through exhausts burbling away with that slightly uneven idle the start grid - Lovely.

I can't wait to have her run in and then tuned on the Dyno

 
So 350 miles so far running her in, driving normally with plenty of acceleration and then deceleration, not slaving the engine and keeping her under 4k revs for the first 250 miles now up to 5k revs. Now running a little smoother, but occasionally stalling when coming to a standstill.

Oil and filter change at 500 mile then more of the same but a little more aggression in the driving.
At 1000 mile full service, synthetic oil now, recheck, adjust and tighten everything then off to WS for a tune.
 
500 miles done, off for an oil and filter change this morning.
So far and it's just seat ofthe pants feeling is it's so much quicker through the gears, lots more low down grunt.
 
So last Sunday morning the car decided to feel a bit rough, wasn't running as smooth as before, felt like it misfired now and again, etc. etc.
It turned out that one of my injectors wasn't spraying correctly so a re-clean and all is well again.

Whilst the injectors were being inspected, tested and cleaned Warren from Jaz kindly investigated the cost of new ones (only OEM and £200 each), any possible direct fit alternatives and found a company called ASNU that would custom build a set (about £130 each ) for you based on your rebuilt engines specification.

The other dilemma is the need to have it Dyno’ed to optimise its running and performance. The Motronic ECU has very limited tuning capability and only Wayne Scofield from Chipwizards has the knowhow to do so - He is the Motronic Guru!.

Unfortunately Wayne is extremely busy and it could be several months before a time slot on his Dyno is available. Several months are far too long to wait and potentially running a car too lean for that period could cause damage. So what to do and what are the alternatives. Buy new injectors and hope a Dyno slot becomes available soon, or a radical change.

Since the Motronic is compromised then perhaps we start with a new ECU and work up the electronics and induction chain – time to investigate. When I spoke with Nick Fulljames (Redtek), he recommended I call Lloyds Specialist Developments who he uses for similar enhancements.

So they will give your engine a thorough health check, then when happy replace the Motronic with a new fully programmable ECU (Canems), any new wiring or loom that is required, replace the AFM (the mechanical barn door) with a digital MAF, new injectors to use the specification then remap on their Dyno.

The whole process takes 4 week but is pricy at £3,400 plus VAT. So some more investigation is needed and I’d better start saving!

My 1k service, (oil, filter, recheck and torque engine is planned for the end of August by which time I need to decide what option to take!

 
ras62 said:
Steve Wong in the states is an option for a new chip.
I had a Steve wong chip in my last ECU, did a great job but it still doesn't get over the Motronics shortcomings.

That reminds me, my current ECU is a new one I source from Germany late 2016, never been opened or tampered with and less than 7k miles usage. That got to be worth £800+ that can offset the costs for the Lloyds solution.
 
Motronic isn't as compromised as you may think. Given the changes to the motor it's not difficult to change the timing/fuel parameters to give you a solution. Obviously Wayne would be the prefered option but personally I would shy away from a non standard ECU that will over nothing over a well setup motronic.
 
ras62 said:
Motronic isn't as compromised as you may think. Given the changes to the motor it's not difficult to change the timing/fuel parameters to give you a solution. Obviously Wayne would be the prefered option but personally I would shy away from a non standard ECU that will over nothing over a well setup motronic.
A few years post my Steve Wong Chip Wayne did Dyno my car and you could immediately feel the difference, so yes I agree that it can be tuned. But as confirmed by the most of the engine builder mastro's, it has fundamental limitations in tunability - their words not mine.
Remember both the hard and software are 30 years old and this can't compete with a new "open source" ECU. I can't plug my Laptop into the Motronics and upload different running configurations (face road, touring, track, etc.) but in something like a Canem you can.
Secondly it's an end to end solution I'm thinking about so from ECU, digital MAF, Injectors, etc, each bit adds to optimizing the car's feel and performance.
I know several IB owners that have gone the non Motronic route and none have any reservation, at the end of the day I suppose it's all about cost vs. feel & performance ................perhaps that the real question I need to ask myself.


 

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