], just don't get too carried away otherwise you might end up as anal as me [] Sorry didn't reply earlier - it was Araldite i used too. BigDave and myself are thinking about softening our cars up and going back to fairly standard set-up like the race cars, appears to be the right approach to faster laps.....only joking, keep up the good work.....we can suggest plenty more mods (including a VERY nice one for wet tracks, works wonders, we'll let you in on it when we eventually meet up again). Re front top-mounts, IMHO it is the single most detrimental mod on the car to effect the compliant ride of the front end. You really do feel the bumps, undulations of the road etc when you change to the solid mounts. I personally found it worse than the really hard springs, rose jointed castor mounts/wishbones etc. Turn in/on track feel is fantastic though. The more track driving you do, the more you want - very difficult to get a compromise. Has the torsion tube been fitted to the car yet - if not get the digital spirit level out. If not already explained, BigDave will go through the details []....he has had more practice at it. JP
]....he has had more practice at it." Dave if you need any help in setting the bars ie re-indexing the easy way, just give me a call. Trust me, theres no need for all the marking etc ever again....[][][][]
] The tube has gone back in today after reassembly this p.m after spending a.m watching used cars make hundreds, nay thousands over book[] I was surprised at the washers for spacers method really. I had to use two under each bolt although one side was moving OK but "fitted", the other side not loose but moving much more freely. Trailing arms back in and general build up tomorrow. MOT and alignment next week all going well. Digital spirit level eh[&:] Presume that gives you the angle, relative to a line drawn across the tube, that is correct when the level is placed at a line on the spring plate? I remember last time questioning how they set it up at the factory in the first place. I looked at the Clarkes garage site which was interesting but surely they would have had a quicker set up than that at production? I'm intrigued. I don't say, or spell, that very often these days[] See you on the 28th. Cheers Dave
] The spherical bearing rear arb drop links are rather nice. Sad[&:] So this evening bleed brakes and fit ebay bargain Janspeed exhust. No. Brake fluid peeing out of front steel hose banjo's. My fault. As I looked at the calipers where the brake banjo fits I thought - last week sometime - " must remove that pitting around the inlet fitting or the copper washers won't seal". Must be me age. Thought it so must have done it[&:]. Off came calipers and flatted and smoothed but too late for the copper washers as indented and u/s. Grab some tomorrow or may find some washers we used to call dowty if my memeory serves me correct. Washer with a rubber sealing ring on the inside. I have one in my washers spares box left over from something. Definately worth checking that mounting face if you're going to use the banjo type front fitting steel hoses. Cheers Dave
] Oh well it was time for mates barby so battery on charge and try again today. Fired up fine. Exhaust sounds good, bit deeper than the just cat back I had on the old CS. Only annoying thing is the exhaust kept slipping around where it joins after the second silencer. If any of you have a Janspeed you'll understand. I fitted it so as the tailpipe was nicely positioned at the back but after a bit of running it slipped down. It only has support on one side using the middle and rear hangers so it pivots about that joint. I reset it and tightened the wide clamp but it still slipped a bit. Will have to back it up with another clamp. Also need a new rear rubber hanger as thats looking a bit soft. Need to adjust the handbrake at the disc end as I was a bit easy with both of them. Changed the oil and filter after a good warm up. Anyway, plonked the wheels back on, dropped it down off the stands and thought "crikey, looks a bit low at the back, did I get those bl***y bars back in right?" until I got it out properly and the rear camber looks like a racecar[&:] Took it gingerly around the block a couple of times, all working, pulls up nicely and the rear doesn't feel that hard at all. Not easy to tell on that bit of road but we'll see. Checked all the MOT systems, all OK but ended up shoving very hot water down the washer bottle and flushing it through a couple of times. I don't know what was in there but it stunk[:'(] OK, now got to get it booked in with Mike at Zentrum for alignment and MOT hopefully Weds, then get the plate on it and DRIVE[][][][][][][][] As usual thanks for help and advice people, much appreciated. Oh, and I still need a pair of Cup 2 8x17 et 70 or 52 plus a set of decent shockers front & rear[] Cheers Dave
] I know the massive neg camber makes a difference but not that much. Having given it some thought, I'm pretty certain the bars are in the right place as I marked them such that I couldn't get them wrong but I do remember marking the outer plate/bar housing, then undoing the outer housing when it was off the car, and it sort of moved round as I released the tension so as to move the marks apart. This must have been the rubber and rust just holding it. I did make a mental note at the time, but when replacing it perhaps placed the marks the wrong side on reassembly therefore lowering it a spline on the outside housing. Now, I can't see the alignment getting that back up to 630ish which is where it should be approx. My old CS when standard was 635 on the lowest plate adjustment. I remember you Dave, explaining a long time ago on another forum, that if you moved the bar one spline on the inner end it would raise/lower by about 2.6 inches. Presuming outer end, as more splines so less movement, about 2 inches or so. Well, if I'm one outer spline out that accounts for it just about. I'm already at max height on the plates. See how it is when I get it back. Of course I could just fit some KW's. Be easier on the back if not the wallet[&:] Although now I'm thinking - dangerous I know - that if you had a standard car and the wheelarch height was 645ish, if you just turned the the outer plate one spline it would give you one big drop by about 50mm or so? Cheers Dave
] As I suspected have got the outer end housing on the torsion bars out by a spline when reassembling[&:] Wrong side of the marks. See previous post. It's so low I should be blacking out the windows and giving it large with the drum & barse innit. It is actually a straightforward job if anybody is contemplating it. A lot of us have done it more than once. Including me so should be right by now[] Just take your time and don't rush at the finish when you can see the end[&:][&:][&:] Passed the MOT all OK, without the cat, but the castor blocks are stuck so can't adjust. So looks like front end rebuild sooner rather than later. Need front polys Stu, put 'em on the credit card[][][] Cheers Dave
][][]
] In the car it's fine and at motorway speeds it's quiet enough. Just measured it more acurately in the garage. It's 586mm to top of w/arch rear and 200 to bottom of outer spline covers. Think that confirms it's the outer cover I'm out by one spline. Going to drop it out and into vice on the bench. Then do some serious and carefull measuring[&:] Next week, need a rest from it this weekend. I don't remember the front being affected that much by the front polys. Thanks for all your comments, cheeky monkeys[] I will be there on the 28th and will also get pics on before then. Cheers Dave
][][]. So, yes i sympathise with you regarding the splines...[][].. If you do want to know how to do the job SO much easier just call me + ill guide you through it.. Its easier to talk it through that type on a PC...Its all to do with the "angle of the dangle".... Just looked back at the dimensions that my Sport was before i lowered it,, they are.. REAR arch measure floor to arch,, [not very acurate but a guide],, nearside627mm + offside623mm. Hope that helps. As JP says, get it together as the 28th aint that far off....Although as weve had LOTS of practice this year. We "might" be dots in the distance....[][][][][]
] So recovery today as rather too much pop yesterday[8|] Am going to put the tube in the bench vice as usual when out, level it up to the same as the metal top on bench then I can set the distance from the bottom of plates then see how much it moves when I move 1 spline on the plates. If you see what I mean. Spoke to Big Dave re the digital spirit level method, very interesting. Going off to buy one in the morning and experiment[&:] Should be about 50mm which will set it right as it's on highest position on the plate adjuster at the moment. Sorry, won't be driving at Dono but looking forward to the day. Still trying to persuade my GT2 mate to come along but business has picked up for him - builder doing mainly insurance work - so may not make it. You guys who place pics on here, which is the best, and easiest of use, hosting site for the Cat d rebuild picture fest? Advice gratefully received. Cheers Dave.
][][][][] Having moved a spline I've got something wrong as its too high so now going to the digital spirit level. This is not how horizontal I shall get with spirit being tested with a level on Friday night but an ingenious method worked out by the 968 boffins. i.e Big Dave, Jason and Peter I think. Renders marking bars and sweaty palms a thing of the past[] Thanks for help chaps, esp Jason popping in tomorrow after work, and I'm sure once I've done this I'll be able to explain it to you all.[][][][][][][][][][][] Yeah right[&:] Still no pics. Will be time positive diarising forward so will upload soon. Ooooh gone a bit modern Porsche there. Cheers DavePlease do tell, I tried the Elephant Racing method where supposedly you don't have to disconnect the brake pipes but I couldn't move the trailing arm clear of the spring plate so more dismantling is in order.ORIGINAL: David Hooper Still wrong[
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