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Changing belts and chain (S2) - hints and tips?

Hi Oli,well done,I did warn you about the cam bolt and the use of either a snap on or proto tool after waking it up,the bolt is a normal right hand thread.When the indi checked the cam belt tension did he use a tension gauge ? all the best John.
 
John,

You did warn me about the cam bolt, and despite using good-quality tools (teng), and trying all the waking-up techniques I know (penetration spray, firm tap on head with hammer, tightening before loosening), it still wouldn't play. However a close inspection of the cam chain left me happy that it is all in good shape, and I'll get it changed next time the belts are done. Probably by an indie ...

No, belt tension wasn't done with a gauge. It was done by both feel and inspection of the belt movement when revving the engine. I watched very carefully and ensured that I got to 'twang' the belts once they were spot-on.


Oli.
 
Oli, I felt a little bit of a coward giving the work to my local garage rather than braving your DIY philosophy. But unfolding events are making me glad (but probably much poorer) that I did pass the job over to professionals.
Now I've seen the strip down, which took the mechanic only an hour or so, some of problems they have had to overcome would have probably stopped me dead in my tracks. The splined head cam pulley bolt had a stripped head and one of the cam bracket bolts also had a stripped head. This looks like previous DIY butchery.
I had ordered just new belts as there was no audible evidence of problem with the idlers but, perversely, the belts looked brand new and the idlers were knackered! The good news is that there was no evidence of oil leaks onto the belts. The cam chain tensioner top slipper looked good but the bottom one was grooved and degraded. So, after some quick calls to Berlyn and my local OPC, idlers, new bolts, a full chain tensioner repair kit and camshaft oil seals are on their way to the garage. Bert Gear was his usual helpful self but could not help with bottom tensioner slipper. The OPC was able to provide a full slipper replacement kit for £60. OPC prices are funny. Sometimes they are outrageous and other times less than an indie. Seems like you should always check both.
Anyway, I won't get the car back tomorrow but at least when I do, I will feel confident in giving it the full beans!
 
Simon,

In the light of your post, I think that makes me a DIY butcher ... (actually, that sounds good. I think I'll put it in my sig!) I mangled the cam shaft end bolt, holding the pulley on. And it will need some attention next time, in order to get it off. I guess the worst-case scenario is that you grind the head off, take the pulley off and use some grips to get the stud out. Once the head is gone the tension on it will be gone as well, and the stud will be loose. (In theory ... )

That's a good price for the slippers. I paid a little more than that from Promax. You're right - always worth checking OPC prices. They can (and do) surprise you.

Enjoy giving it the beans. I'll be limited only by the passenger-seat speed-restriction device on the trip up to see the in-laws this weekend. (Rural Shropshire. So much more joyous to drive in than East London!)


Oli.
 
I rang the OPC in trepidation of an outrageous price for that bolt (specially since Bert said he did not have one). I was right...it was outrageous. £1!! Cheapest thing I've ever bought for a porker!
 
Crumbs - I'll buy one now. I bet they will be nearer £50 when the job needs to be done (and £1 today for £50 in 4 years time sounds like a good investment to me!)


Oli.
 

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