ClubSport bits

[Fen]

There was. The one on the passenger door looked original and well stuck. It restuck to the original sticky stuff well enough to go again.

On the driver's door there was white bin liner type polythene (seriously). Obviously it didn't go again. I replaced it with a rubble sack split and folded open. I stuck it with what was left of the sticky on the door and duck tape around the edge.

 

[hotblack944]

Thanks Fen. My membrane looks original too (doubled skinned bits where the wiring loom comes through) but the stick is past its prime []

Next question - have you got instructions for removing the window regulator/motor? Looks like it might be a tight squeeze...

Cheers,

Jim.

 

[Fen]

Basically the regulator is attached to the inside of the door and it has an arm connected to it. There is a second arm that is fixed to a pivot half way down the first one. That creates a cross with the gearbox and motor at one point and a plastic bush at each of the other three. These bushes fit into guide channels such that they can slide horizontally but if they move up and down they pull the channel. One channel is also on the door so is fixed, the other two are on the glass and hence get pulled down / pushed up by this movement.

First, tape the glass to the door frame! Next unplug the connector to the motor.

Then just remove the 5 or 6 10mm headed screws and the whole thing will come off the door. A bit of backward and forward wiggling will get the plastic bushes out of the end of the channels. Further wiggling will get the whole thing out of the hole that you can see the motor through. I actually had to help it here on both sides by levering the top of that particular hole with a screwdriver to pop the scissors part of the regulator out.

When it comes to refitting I found it easiest to put the door channel bush in first, then (I think from the front end) try to slide both the window channel bushes in simultaneously. I wound the mechanism a little bit to make alignment easier so you might want to connect the motor up and plug in the switch so you can adjust things too. When all 3 bushes are in their channels then line up one of the threaded holes with a hole in the door and put in a 10mm screw. put any other screws that line up in and work the button to change the angle of the machanism (it is free while the window is fixed remember) until you can get all the others in, then tighten them up.

From what I could see the only adjustment is on the channel that is attached to the door. Don't touch the two screws that hold it as you can do the job without moving it and save readjusting afterwards. You'll spot them as they are in slotted holes, toward the back of the door - behind the armrest sort of area.

The only mistake I made first time was not taping the window up, so it fell into the door. I then wasted time trying to get the bushes into the channels with the window free, but a normal human is 3 or 4 hands short of the required amount to do it that way (it's a 3 hand job to get the window bushes in at the same time without the door one falling out as it is, because all the weight is twisting the mechanism out of the required alignment - that will be worse with a heavier electric regulator.

Why are you taking yours out?

 

[hotblack944]

Fen,

Thanks very much for that!

ORIGINAL: Fen
Why are you taking yours out?

Well... the window sort of "clunks" at the extremes of its travel - the glass jumps the last half centimetre of its travel, so I'm trying to find what's broken.

Cheers,

Jim.

 

[hotblack944]

ORIGINAL: Fen
Further wiggling will get the whole thing out of the hole that you can see the motor through. I actually had to help it here on both sides by levering the top of that particular hole with a screwdriver to pop the scissors part of the regulator out.

I reconnected the motor, closed the mechanism right up, then slid it backwards until the motor was level with the front of the lower rear hole in the inner door skin. You can then rotate the lower edge out through the hole and extract the scissors, without any levering at all []

Operating the motor with the mechanism off the door showed an obvious "jump" in the travel and splitting the motor from the scissors (with the mechanism against the "up" stop, as it's spring loaded!!!) caused the culprit to drop out - one of the teeth of the small cog that the motor drives []

Looks like I might be bidding on your eBay auction...

Cheers,

Jim.

 

[Fen]

ORIGINAL: hotblack944

I reconnected the motor, closed the mechanism right up, then slid it backwards until the motor was level with the front of the lower rear hole in the inner door skin. You can then rotate the lower edge out through the hole and extract the scissors, without any levering at all []

Looks like I might be bidding on your eBay auction...

Cheers,

Jim.

Shame it's the driver's side - that one is attracting a much higher price on eBay than the passenger one.

In my defence on the getting it out thing, I didn't have the luxury of any power to the motor to move the mechanism regardless of it being plugged in or not. Not that it occurred to me though.

 

[hotblack944]

I knew I'd "won" the auction when I set a reminder about it on my phone - the time was 9:44 []

 

[Fen]

ORIGINAL: hotblack944

I knew I'd "won" the auction when I set a reminder about it on my phone - the time was 9:44 []

Nice. I hope it has arrived OK by now.



In the tradition of me posting pics that nobody is interested in, here's my fancy head gasket:

 

[Kevin Welch]

In the tradition of me posting pics that nobody is interested in, here's my fancy head gasket:

If I said I was interested in your pics does that mean you would stop posting them?[]

 

[Fen]

That could be a dangerous gamble... [8D]

 

[hotblack944]

ORIGINAL: Fen
I hope it has arrived OK by now.

Arrived? It's on the car, Mate [] And only minor blood letting involved...

Thanks for the speedy delivery - cheque's in the post.

Jim.

 

[Fen]

So long as it's working I won't ask about the blood letting.

You realise that's the slippery slope now - first a Turbo window regulator, next a Turbo...

Edited because my weak attempt at humour was not funny at all with a typo.

 

[John Sims]

In the tradition of me posting pics that nobody is interested in, here's my fancy head gasket:

So why, or rather, in what way is it special then?

 

[Fen]

I thought I replied to this from the office - maybe I never actually hit send...

It's a Multi Layer Steel (MLS) gasket with 2 thin steel layers and a pair of figure 8 pieces sandwiched in between that sit around the bore tops (at least the one I looked at at Autosport was like that).

The guy doing my engine machining used to use them when he worked at Janspeed and built Nissan touring car engines. He says they can be reused 3 or 4 times and he has seen engines that detted enough to destroy the top of the bore but the gasket was still fine.

Hopefully I won't emulate the last bit...

 

[TTM]

In the tradition of me posting pics that nobody is interested in, here's my fancy head gasket:

Hello Fen,

You're staying 2.5 or going bigger ?
(Been away and missed some episodes, sorry ...)

Cheers,
Thom

 

[Fen]

Hi Thom,

I'm sticking with 2.5, mainly because it will be off the road for another 2 years if I decide to do anything really expensive with the bottom end.

I have also got the S2 cab and the miles are piling on it. At some point it will need a rebuild and I have a half-baked plan that I could swap the 2.5 Turbo engine into it and fit Turbo brakes, suspension and transaxle, then rebuild it's motor as a 3.0+ 16v turbo for the coupe. Probably it will never happen, mind...